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Unread 03-03-2020, 07:55 AM   #16
HoosierSteve
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Understood that I can't do both. The offset drain decision was 2 part decision initially. Where the wife wanted it and me naively thinking that it would line up to a standard tub drain, which it won't, I learned AFTER I bought it. I will evaluate the floor then make a call about the drain location. It won't be hard to move if that turns out to be the better functional decision. What's another $115 at this point?
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Unread 03-03-2020, 09:58 PM   #17
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$115 or unhappy wife. Hmm ... lemme think about that ...
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Unread 03-16-2020, 06:27 AM   #18
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OK, so next question. I was late getting started with demo but I am through a lot of it after this weekend. I have a low spot in the walk-in closet connected to the bathroom. The closet will be tiled with 8x8 tiles as will the BR floor. The closet has a low spot in the floor where 4 pieces of subfloor connect in one spot. (no idea why the builders did this, except it looks like they pieced this corner of the house in with scraps) I've been in the crawl and all the joists are intact but one is obviously low right there, though I can't see that from underneath. Joists are 2x10 southern yellow pine, 10.5' spans. Can I fill that area in the floor with mud and screed it off level before I put Ditra mat down? How dry should I make the thinset before I do this? It is not a "deep" depression, maybe 3/8" in the center and total size of the areabis 2-3 ft each way. Worried about the thinset breaking apart being that thin.
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Unread 03-16-2020, 08:08 AM   #19
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3/8" is a little thick for thinset mortar, Steve, I think you'd be better off with a self leveler for that spot. Choose one that allows for a feather finish edge, and also be sure to read the instructions to see if a primer is required first.
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Unread 03-16-2020, 11:14 AM   #20
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Thanks for the response. Self level it will be then. That makes sense and not sure why I didn't think of it myself.
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Unread 03-16-2020, 11:18 AM   #21
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Good insurance to secure the subfloor to the joists with construction screws, Steve, if you haven't done so already.
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Unread 03-17-2020, 04:37 AM   #22
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Thanks so much for the help. The subfloor is screwed well and has a ton of what looks to be construction adhesive as well in the closet and BR. I actually have had to scrape the joints where it has squeezed out. I hope I don't ever have to remove these boards though. Weird because the kitchen was not this way when I did that last summer. Had to replace a piece compromised from a leaky DW so I know it was only screwed down.
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Unread 03-18-2020, 11:37 AM   #23
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One more quick question. I'll be enclosing the shower in Kerdi board. I was only able to get 1/2" sheets locally. The Kerdi will meet existing drywall on only 1 wall. I need to shim the Kerdi to get it flush with the drywall. Any issues with using 1/4" plywood strips to achieve this?
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Unread 03-18-2020, 12:26 PM   #24
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Is the drywall not also 1/2", Steve? You have a stud behind the edge of the drywall and behind the edge of the Kerdi board?
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Unread 03-19-2020, 11:25 AM   #25
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Well, I had always believed it was 1/2 but it is actually 5/8. I am also only 6-8" from an existing corner bead so the drywall mud is pretty thick. 3/4" gets me really flush to the existing drywall/mud thickness.
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Unread 03-19-2020, 11:28 AM   #26
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Also, yes there is a double stud at the point I am joining drywall to Kerdi. Got lucky with how the existing studs worked out for me.
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Unread 03-19-2020, 11:55 AM   #27
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If you shim the Kerdi board only at that one stud you'll end up with a bow in the board between that stud and the next one over. Depending on the spacing of the studs the bow could be quite a lot.
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Unread 03-19-2020, 12:02 PM   #28
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Steve, back to the 3/8 low spot in the floor. Are the edges of the patched in plywood supported with joists and blocking? If the floor has flex in it when you walk, the SLC will likely crack and possibly cause the tiles to flex and cause problems.
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Unread 03-20-2020, 11:34 AM   #29
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On the shims, my plan was to shim out the entire wall, which is only about 35" from where drywall meets Kerdi so just a few studs to do that whole wall.

On the low spot in the floor, it "feels" very solid and the center of the valley is on a joist. I have easy access though through 4 course crawl, and can add blocking but nothing feels soft at all, and I am a big guy. It is also towards a corner of the closet that will frankly never get walked on once the project is complete. I have a closet system going in there which will pretty much prevent foot traffic in that spot.
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Unread 03-29-2020, 02:35 PM   #30
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Well, I finally finished demo. Had to get the water lines cut and capped, and drains cut. I found my builder cut a hole for the tub drain big enough to drop a bucket in, and I've had mice all under the tub and in the surrounding walls so I spent most of the day dealing with that and patching the sub-floor as well as a patch around the toilet from an old leak. It wasn't terrible but had to be done while it was exposed.

New question. My walk-in shower is (at least it was) going to be just over 30.75" x 59" finished, including tile. Lucky me, I have a joist 1" from the center of the 30" span, right where I planned to run a center drain. I have a foam Schluter pan, but unclear to me how this will work if I cut it down unbalanced to shift the drain hole enough to miss the joist. I know the pan will be sloped at the wall there, but it looks to me like it will be even if I cut 4" off each side. It looks to me like any trimming gets into the slope and will create an uneven bottom row of tile. I guess that bothers me, but not a great deal.

I've thought about a mud bed. The shower will be confined and narrow and with no experience, trying to work the mud bed from one end working backward just seems like a PITA.

Thoughts on my options to deal with this joist issue?

Thanks again folks!
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