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Unread 11-17-2019, 04:56 PM   #31
ss3964spd
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I don't know how the AD will perform over a membrane in the inside corners, Art. Seems like it might work but I've not read about anyone doing so. Might wanna stick with whatever the maker of AD suggests for those inside corners, or give them a call and see what they think.

I've not seen any corner mounted wire soap dishes, but I've also not actively looked. I do see that Schluter sells some new metal shelves with decorative holes in them that mount in the tile grout lines, and those holes will certainly allow all that soap scum to easily drip through onto your new walls and floor. Might be an option.
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Unread 11-23-2019, 04:25 PM   #32
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I have the alcove surround all prepped for tile - applied aquadefense (2 coats) and did the tub transition with a membrane (after AD). Niche is installed and membrane applied to the seams. In planning the tile layout, and to avoid the proverbial sliver (~1.5") pieces in the corners I am thinking about doing a 1/3 offset layout. The tile themselves are a subway (4.25 x 9.75) and using a 1/16" grout line. My questions are:

1) Thoughts on the 1/3 offset? I know a lot is personal preference but am interested in opinions. I prefer a 1/2 offset but can't past the slivers.
2) If my calculations are correct, and I laid it out on the floor to verify, I'll end up with a tiny course at the ceiling (about 9/16" wide). Ideas how I can avoid this? The only wiggle room I have is with the grout lines I think but 9/16" seems like a lot to make up for. How to adjust?
3) See if I have the 1/3 offset correct - On the back wall I was planning on starting with 1/3 tile in the lower left corner. This would allow me to end with almost 2/3 of a tile. Then on the front end wall I would start with 1/3 tile so it will look like it wraps. However on the back end wall would I start with a 2/3 tile in the lower right corner (facing the wall) so the it combines with the 1/3 tile i started with? If so this means I start with a 1/3 tile on the front end wall but start with a 2/3 tile on the back end wall. Is this the way its done?

Slow and steady progress. Thanks for all your help.
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Unread 11-23-2019, 05:00 PM   #33
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1. 1/3 offset looks better on bigger tile IMHO, but everybody's taste is different, so suit yourself. I imagine there's some way to avoid skinnies with 50%. Maybe come out further beyond tub or fudge at the inside corner. Not all skinnies look horrible, especially if grout color is close to that of tile.

2. I solve this by rarely tiling to the ceiling. They're typically not level which poses yet another eyeball problem with smaller tile, plus I like the look of tile surrounds held down a margin. Looks more fitted and crisp to my eye, especially trimmed with metal. A few inches above shower arm is all that's really necessary, with good prime and paint above, and a good vent fan. My go-to now is electronic countdown switch. Roaring vent fans rub me wrong too, but that's another story...
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Unread 11-23-2019, 05:06 PM   #34
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Here's a corner wire soap holder. https://www.amazon.com/LS-Bathroom-S...s%2C219&sr=8-8

Check your tub and ceiling for level to make sure the gap size. We sometimes will add a border of something to throw off the measurement. Are you still planning to start at the tub with 3/4 inch cut off the tiles?

You might check, seems like I remember hearing that epoxy grout wasn't recommended with glass tiles. Someone correct me if I'm wrong.
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Unread 11-24-2019, 07:29 AM   #35
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Thanks for the replies.

Unfortunately there is a door that limits how far out beyond the tub I can go. Even at max I'd be left with a 1.5" piece in the corner. And if I come in 1.5" then I'd have a 3/4" tub leg! No winning there that I can see.

The tile is a sky blue and grout will be cream or white which I think may draw the eye to the skinnies?

The wall is already prepped to go to the ceiling - gotta go now. I was thinking I could just cut the 1st course to leave room at the top.

Thanks Davy for the soap dish - will check it out more. Also going with Flexcolor grout.

Lastly - the tile manufacturer doesn't specify - which trowel? 3/16 v-notch? 3/8 U?

Thanks.
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Unread 11-24-2019, 08:46 AM   #36
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I'd likely use a 1/4x1/4 notch.
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Unread 11-24-2019, 04:42 PM   #37
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Sorry for all the questions but I'd rather not get into setting tile and then find a boo-boo (and a fair share of second guessing!). Peter - I liked your idea of not going to the ceiling and finishing with metal trim. Do you miter the inside corners and outside ends of the horizontal trim that meet the vertical trim? If so how do you know for sure the height as you would need to miter before setting? BTW I am also using metal trim in the inside corners - just miter over the top of them?

Lastly I am also switching to a half offset - the more I looked at the 1/3 it looked too busy.

Thanks as always.
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Unread 11-24-2019, 07:28 PM   #38
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Yes, I miter everything. I actually have a dedicated chop saw with aluminum blade.

See if this makes sense. Figure out where your last course will land within 1/2" or so. I use a story stick, but that seems to be a dying method so do what you feel like. I've gotten in the habit of setting up a pole with laser to check level along the way. Mark a plumb line where tile will end on sides.

I'll start off my second row ledger and work up course by course on back and sides but leave the outermost tiles of the end walls off. Once I've built to one or two courses shy of top, I'll cut back metal to length and set those courses with metal under.

At this point I'll cut sides to length by taking a too long piece with mitered end, push it against back piece and mark at my plumb line. This takes measuring out of the equation and probably comes from carpentry background. I'll sometimes mark a level line on wall for reference. I've learned to trim the windowed leg of metal back at 15 or 20° with tin snips so they don't interfere with visible part of miter...and they will...trust me.

With sides cut I'll tile that out to where I left off and then do the same with the down leg. Miter on top, straight cut to floor. Remember that you're mitering tops of end wall metal differently on either end. I often pencil a reminder slash on metal 'cus I'm easily confused.

From there it's a matter of tiling front edges, cutting as I go for good eyeball and keeping to my plumb line. It's fussy but worth it IMHO. Stay vigilant with keeping early courses level or it will bite your butt.

Clear as mud?
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Unread 11-25-2019, 08:32 AM   #39
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Believe it or not I'm picking up most of what you said - thank you. I was thinking the same - not tiling the corners/ends right away but needed confirmation that this wouldn't bite me later. Instead of a story stick I've been laying it out on the floor but the same idea.

I've practiced the miter cuts for the niche - using a regular carbide blade - just have to go very slow. A little tricky. The issue I am having though is the dimensions of the inside of the niche will be slightly different when I apply thin set. So I guess you have to cut as you go?

With that I think I'm ready to get the party started. Good thing I don't do this for a living as I would have starved a long time ago. Will post pics as I go.

Can't thank you enough for your time and knowledge.
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Unread 01-11-2020, 10:37 AM   #40
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Like a bad rash I am back with just a couple more questions.

As you may recall this project was tiling around an alcove tub. Between the walls and the tub at the bottom I left a .25" gap to caulk. But the gap is pretty deep as there is the cbu, thinset, and the tile. Is it common to put some sort of filler in the gap before caulking? Seems that seam would take a lot of caulk to fill - is there a standard way to fill this area besides caulk? Should the caulk extend out beyond the face of the tile?

Second question - I am also going to tile an accent wall above the sink. Its painted drywall. My question is how to prep the wall and what to use to adhere the tile to the wall. I think I've read to sand the sheen off of the paint and good to go - true? Also should I use thinset or mastic? There shouldn't be any real water contact but want the tile to stick well and only do the job once. Any and all suggestions helpful. Thanks for all the help.
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Unread 01-11-2020, 11:17 AM   #41
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For that wall/tub gap, Art, you can fill it first with 1/4" or 3/8" (if you can find it) foam backer rod, then caulk with your silicone caulk.

For the accent wall, mastic or mortar will work fine, no danger of water exposure. Scuff the paint with some 80 grit, remove the dust, and have at it.
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Unread 03-01-2020, 01:41 PM   #42
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What is possibly the longest bath remodel job in the history of mankind I am requesting opinions before I start on the last phase - tiling the accent wall. The accent wall is 55" wide x 57" high. The misses has picked out this tile:

https://www.tileshop.com/products/ur...or&c=white&sc=

Questions / opinions please:
1) has anyone used a tile like this and if so any recommendations?
2) How would one grout this tile? with the raised portions it looks like some different method is necessary?
3) The tile is 6 x 6. I think if i use a 1/8" grout line I can go 9 tiles across. Height wise though I will have skinnies - suggestions? Would a 1/8" grout look good? Too wide but better than skinnies?
4) On this wall I am also hanging a back lit mirror. What I was thinking was to fir out a small area with a strip of wood the thickness of the tile to mount the hanger for the mirror so the mirror will stand proud of the tile. Good idea or are there others?

Thanks for your time and help.
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Unread 03-01-2020, 06:20 PM   #43
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Hi Art. Nothing wrong with 1/8 joints if that's what you want. I'd use sanded grout, just dab it in the joints and wash the grout off around the raised sections.

You can always add a rail or liner around the box to change the layout and possibly do away with the skinnies.

I wouldn't want wood in my shower. Can you find flat 6x6's in the same color for the mirror mount? You can add wood blocking in the wall before hand for the mount screws.
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Unread 03-01-2020, 07:17 PM   #44
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Art
What is possibly the longest bath remodel job in the history of mankind
Art, on these forums your project would hafta celebrate its fourth anniversary before you even become a serious competitor. I can't recall exactly what you'll need to actually win.

What Davy said about your mirror mount. I would not want to introduce a wood piece in the shower unless it were something like Ipe or Teak. I think his idea of a matching, or even contrasting, flat tile would be the way to go, but without any idea what your mirror or its mount look like, it's difficult to guess.

My opinion; worth price charged.
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Unread 03-01-2020, 09:32 PM   #45
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Quote:
Originally Posted by CX
...your project would hafta celebrate its fourth anniversary before you even become a serious competitor. I can't recall exactly what you'll need to actually win.
Definitely longer than four years; I’m pretty certain there’s one active thread that’s approaching 10. Doesn’t matter how long it takes as long as you keep at it!

My current project started in 2015 and is still going strong!!

Glad to be past this phase tho!

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