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Unread 04-23-2012, 01:39 PM   #76
Finch
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Got my plumbing roughed in for our double vanity last night. Turned out well. The wall between the vanity and shower is built and is drywalled on the vanity side. I've now come to the point where I need to drywall the shower. I'll be using kerdi...just a couple of questions.

1. We're not sure which shower head/spray arm we are going to get. Does it matter if we don't know this yet? I guess my question is will any shower rough in valve work for whatever shower head/arm we decide on?

2. Once the shower plumbing is complete...I'll drwyall the shower area, install the better bench, install mud floor/kerdi drain, and then kerdi the whole thing. Is that about right?
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Unread 04-23-2012, 02:50 PM   #77
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1. Should, but I'd still want that decision made before I installed my valve.

2. I recommend you not install your Better Bench until your walls were Kerdied.

I would not install my drain or floor until I'd finished tiling my ceiling and walls at least down to the bottom row of tiles, which I'd leave out until I finished the floor.

But with a Kerdi shower you can do it in any sequence you like.

My opinion; worth price charged.
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Unread 04-24-2012, 06:23 PM   #78
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Couple more questions...

1. The wall that exists between my vanity and the shower...right now there is one stud (end of the wall) there that the shower door would attach to. As you're looking at it, its the skinnier side of the 2x4, how many 2x4s should I have together for the shower door to attach to? I'm thinking at least 2 for a total of 3" of wood but wanted to make sure.

2. Also, on the showerhead wall which consists of 2 stud bays, besides the plumbing for the rough in valve, showerhead, and hand shower (wand), do I have room for a niche...be it custom or store bought?

The showerhead wall is a 2x6 wall so a deeper niche could be constructed.
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Unread 04-24-2012, 08:03 PM   #79
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1- Two is correct. Both should be bark side out when screwing or nailing them together.

2- Um, got a pic? Niches come in all sizes. Check out the niche picture thread.
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Unread 04-26-2012, 04:17 PM   #80
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Here's a pic of the showerhead wall. Exterior wall is on the left. My dilemma is the fact I have a stud dead center of my shower drain. That 2x6 wall is a closet in one of my bedrooms. The joists and trusses run parallel with the 2x6 wall base plate. I'm positive that 2x6 does NOT rest upon a joist (I ran into this when I was contemplating cutting out my old subfloor---couldn't since this wall rests entirely on the subfloor between joists)

1. Would I be safe notching the hell out of this stud (basically leaving enough "meat" for the drywall nails that are already nailed into it) to make room for my plumbing valves. I have the Delta on/off rough in and a diverter valve that needs to be installed.

2. If Notching is out of the question...what can I do to make this look right? Moving the drain is out of the question since I've laminated the two pieces of ply together for the sub. The drain is the center of my shower...shower is gonna be 32-33" wide.

Wish I would have foreseen this issue.
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Unread 04-26-2012, 06:48 PM   #81
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I guess another possible option would be to build the shower head wall out a little bit???

Any suggestions?
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Unread 04-26-2012, 07:12 PM   #82
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Maybe I'm not reading properly, but could you place a 2"x6" on either side of the existing one maybe 2" on either side and eliminate the center one? I know they won't be on 16" center but does it matter for just that one?

Or notch out as you had suggested but sister the 2"x6" to make it stronger?
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Unread 04-26-2012, 07:46 PM   #83
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Is this a load bearing wall?
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Unread 04-27-2012, 04:32 AM   #84
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Frank

I guess that is an option. I was really hoping to have room for a niche on this wall which I guess I still will be able to do....just will have to make my own.

Paul...I'm really not 100% certain. The joists and trusses are running the same direction as this wall. Not sure if that is the end all determining factor if its load bearing or not. I also wonder why this wall is 2x6 when the rest are 2x4.

Are load bearing walls typically not supported by the joists underneath? I'm pretty sure this wall is sitting on the subfloor between two joists. And given the fact it runs parallel with the joists and roof trusses, I'm under the assumption its not list bearing.
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Unread 04-27-2012, 06:12 AM   #85
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Here is a coply and paste re load bearing walls:

"Some common points to consider regarding load bearing walls:

Look in the attic. If ceiling joists are overlapped (i.e. the end of the joists are resting on the wall), it’s holding up the ceiling.

Bearing walls should have two top plates, and occasionally contain point loads (two, three or more studs together) that carry weight from beams or headers above.

Where is the wall? Most bungalows have a bearing wall in the middle running the entire width of the house.

Walls running parallel to the ceiling / floor joists are usually not load bearing (unless they contain point loads). Even if your wall doesn’t fit into the four points above, there’s still a chance it’s required – older homes quite often have ceiling joists that are over-spanned by today’s code, or weren’t built to current standards to begin with."



As for the niche, building a custom niche isn't that difficult, there is much information on this site to help you out. Great group of people on this forum also.
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Unread 04-27-2012, 06:16 AM   #86
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Sounds like it isn't load bearing. You can cut away that center stud and add one off to each other side of the new niche
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Unread 04-27-2012, 07:43 AM   #87
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Donnie, keep in mind that it's not necessary to remove the entire stud to do what you wanna do. Since this is not a bearing wall, you could jut cut out the section where your niche will be and put a horizontal piece at the top and bottom between the two adjacent studs. You can then add vertical pieces in that space to make the niche whatever width you want.

My opinion; worth price charged.
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Unread 04-27-2012, 07:48 AM   #88
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I have found the easiest way to go is to Frame a Box the size you want the niche to be...Mark & Cut out the studs in the way..Install the framed Box.

Easy peesy!!
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Unread 04-27-2012, 01:44 PM   #89
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Thanks for the replies!

I'm mainly more concerned about the plumbing than the niche, now. I'm thinking I'll just cut a big chunk out of the entire stud (leaving enough wood for the drywall nails on on the other side to be unaffected) and then install one on either side. That will take care of my plumbing issue and everything will be in line.

Couple questions...

1. My shower is/will be approx 65" long x 32" wide. If I don't install a niche on the shower head wall, not on the left wall (exterior wall), that leaves me with the back wall which is the furthest point away from the showerhead. Is this acceptable you think? It will be back there where my better bench is located. Seems far away now that I think about it. You'd have to walk over to get/put something back.

2. After much debate, we decided on a delta mixing valve and diverter valve for the separate hand shower. Is it advisable to actually have the trim, showerhead, and handheld shower on hand prior to installing the rough in valves? I also don't have the showerhead stem or the handheld stem. If I go ahead and install the valves, install the drywall, and kerdi....will I run into any issues since I don't have the stems? Guess I'm asking if the stems should be installed before putting up the drywall and kerdi.

3. I know I don't have to but was planning on installing the mixing valve, diverter valve, showerhead, and handshower on the same wall. Mixing valve at 48" and diverter valve somewhere straight above but that seems kinda high. OR would it be okay for the mixing valve to be on the left, diverter on the right, and shower head smack dab up top in the middle?
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Unread 04-27-2012, 03:31 PM   #90
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1- It will look good from my house. What does Mrs Donnie want? How about a nice corner shelf or two?

2- I will not tile a shower (or install the valve body) without the trims in hand. The shower arm you do not need as they are largely all the same. The only difference in shower escutcheons may be the diameter, but we cut teeny holes for our shower arms anyway.

3- It will look good from my house. What does Mrs Donnie want? Consider where the hose to the hand held will fall.
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