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Unread 01-31-2010, 04:04 PM   #1
Burgs
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Join Date: Jan 2010
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Kerdi on drywall, wood, & mortar

First time posting,.. I read thru here quite a bit for the last two weeks, and found most of the info I need to get started with a kerdi shower, and a DitraXL floor in the rest of the bathroom.

There are two areas I'm concerned about.

I had an old (late 50's) window replaced with a glass block window. The framing contractor left the old window frame as a frame for the glass block, along with some yellow foam insulation from a can, and the glass block installer installed the glass blocks with a 3/4" perimeter of some sort of morter, (gray). The new drywall sits about 1/16 proud of the old frame, and the mortar is flush with the wood frame and tapers into the glass about 1/8". The end result is that the glass block is 1/16 proud of the finished drywall. I want to run the kerdi membrane right to the glass block, Tile to the same, and run a bead of sealing chaulk aroround the perimeter where the tils meets the glass block.

What can I use to adhear the kerdi from the drywall to the wood frame, yellow goo, and mortar of some sort?

Is a wall with a pocket door behind it, structurally strong enough to tile?

The drywall has been primed, and painted in some areas that will be tiled. Do I need to sand the paint off?
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Unread 01-31-2010, 04:16 PM   #2
jadnashua
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KerdiFix urethane adhesive could provide the seal. Thinset will seal to the mortar, so the only place you may need to deal with is wood. Note, Kerdi and thinset and wood don't go together well at all. You want to ensure that any paint on the drywall is not going to peel and break bond when the alkaline mortar is in contact with it over time. You'd be much better off without anything on the wall at all. Knock on wood, I did put some Kerdi on painted plaster walls after lightly sanding then washing the dust off to make a shower. It's been a couple of years now, and all seems well. What I did observe was it took over a month before the thinset cured to create a really impressive bond. Prior to that, you could peel it off. What I didn't realize was that the walls were quite a bit out of plumb, but flat...it seems they were thicker at the bottom than the top, and that created other problems. If I'd had more time, I might have torn out the plaster and replaced with drywall when making the shower.
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Unread 02-01-2010, 09:09 AM   #3
Burgs
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Join Date: Jan 2010
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Thanks Jim, that's what I was thinking.

Anyone else have any ideas on sealing/adhearing the 3/4" edge of the wood frame between the drywall and morter?
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