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Unread 07-25-2011, 05:49 PM   #1
estone06
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Eddie's Shower Remodel

Hello All,
Long time lurker here on the forum. I have decided to get started on the demo of my 30x30 shower today. I am attaching a few photos for reference and advice to all those interested in helping.

I am planning on the Kerdi method, I want to extend the shower to the right as well as outward. The shower wall is not the same depth as the closet wall so I will be losing a bit of space (8 inches or so) of depth when the new framing is up. I will be gaining so much though.

1.I am planning on keeping the left side of the shower wall as is since I cannot move it, and the center wall as I stated will have to move forward a bit to make it even with the closet backside wall.

2. I also want to leave the sheetrock on the cieling up as well as the sheetrock on the center wall of the shower and just leave it alone as I need to frame out a new wall in front of it.

Are these plans okay so far?

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Unread 07-25-2011, 06:35 PM   #2
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So, I went ahead and decided it would be in my best interest to go ahead and pull all the sheetrock down aside from the ceiling. now, I just need to take the shelves out of the closet and demo that side of the wall and door frame.

1.Any suggestions on how to get the shower pan up? It is in there!! I think I will struggle with that for a while since it is either glued down or bonded to the concrete slab somehow. I already drilled out the rubber flange around the drain hoping I would get lucky.....
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Unread 07-25-2011, 08:57 PM   #3
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Smash the pan around the drain to separate the pan from the drain. Then smash the pan.

There should be a compression ring wedged into a black rubber ring from the top of the drain OR it tightens from underneath OR it tightens from on top with 2 opposing notches in the compression ring.

If none of that works, sawzall the drain out.
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Unread 07-25-2011, 08:58 PM   #4
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Hi Eddie, it's hard to tell by your pic what the shower base is made from. If it's fiberglass, get a crow bar under it and see if it will pry up. Sometimes we have to cut them up into pieces with a Sawsall. ...Or, yep, what Paul said.
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Unread 07-25-2011, 09:39 PM   #5
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Hey guys, I really appreciate the replies. I have been smashing and smashing LOL. The pan is made out of fiberglass. I have worn out a blade on my sawzall, and have used a prybar for about an hour now. I have about a foot in circumference left around the drain that is being stubborn. I will attach a pic momentarily.
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Unread 07-25-2011, 09:48 PM   #6
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Eddie,

If this were easy, none of us would have a job.
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Unread 07-25-2011, 10:10 PM   #7
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Paul, no kidding man. Half of the progress I made was just pure frustration and taking it out on the pan itself lol.
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Unread 07-25-2011, 10:21 PM   #8
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This is as far as I got with it today. I will finish it out tomorrow.

1.I am planning on doing a concrete pan after I recenter the drain, so I just may try to use a jackhammer and bust it out as I will have to remove some concrete anyhow. How far down should I go though? I dont wanna take too much out, but would hate to be too shallow for a good slope.
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Unread 07-26-2011, 06:20 AM   #9
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Normally we take out and replace the trap, so you'll be looking at a hole large enough to fit a 5 gallon bucket into comfortably.
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Unread 07-26-2011, 12:41 PM   #10
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I figured Id be able to go very deep around the drain so I wont have any problems with that, but all around the shower floor I was curious how far to go with the jackhammer. I appreciate everyones help thus far.
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Unread 07-27-2011, 11:42 PM   #11
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Ok, so I used a 60lb jackhammer to get the damned thing out.
I am in need of advice for further progress. I have been reading Johns Kerdi book, but it is pretty vague on the mortar bed for the shower.

1.I am planning on just refilling the hole i made around the drain and where I moved it, then starting on the framing of the new shower walls. Am I missing anything thus far? I am going to pack around the drain with sand first, then use just run of the mill concrete to fill and even the floor out.

I will post a pic in the morning as well.
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Unread 07-28-2011, 04:54 AM   #12
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Fill the hole with a coarser material than sand. (Coarse sand is OK if you have no other options. You can use the dirt from the hole if you are willing to layer it in 2 inch layers and pack the hound out of it between layers.) Use crusher run gravel (un-graded, un-washed gravel) if you can get it in a small quantity. Lowes (and likely, HD) has something similar in bags called compactable base (or something) that's used under paver patios. Fill to the bottom of the old slab, compacting it with the end of a 2x4 or something. Top off with concrete mix with some thinset spread on the cut edges of the old slab to act as a bonding agent.
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Unread 07-28-2011, 03:58 PM   #13
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Dumb question I know....but, would I mix the concrete mix with the thinset or use the coarse material and pack it down then cover with concrete mix, then top that off with thinset to make it level with the old slab?
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Unread 07-28-2011, 06:02 PM   #14
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Eddie, when you are ready for concrete, mix a little bit of thinset with water, 3 or 4 handfulls is enough. Then mix the concrete. Before putting the concrete in the hole, spread some thinset on the rough, broken edge of the concrete and then dump the concrete in right afterwards. Spread the concrete around and using a board or trowel, get it fairly flat with the finished concrete slab. It doesn't have to look like a million bucks, it will be covered with more cement when you make your slope.
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Unread 07-28-2011, 06:42 PM   #15
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Sorry you guys had to spell it out for me but I do appreciate it.
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