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Unread 01-27-2019, 09:38 AM   #271
ss3964spd
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That is a clean look CX, I very much like it.

What's driving my OCD is this; framed glass shower doors. This house came with two framed sliding glass shower doors. After years the rubber seals between the frames and glass have shrunk/deteriorated and water gets between the two, and can't get out. The ensuing mold fest is unpleasant, and mold eating cleaners, while getting the easy stuff, don't penetrate deep enough to kill it all - it's back in a week, maybe two. I feel like the same would be true of the often used horizontal channels that glass is set into; eventually the silicone used to seal them will fail, water will get in, can't get out, etc-etc....

By eliminating, or at least minimizing, areas where water can collect, as well as sealants - which are temporary (some more temporary than others, but they all fail at some point), gunk build up will be reduced.
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Unread 01-27-2019, 11:36 AM   #272
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I'd be going over this with my glass guy. He will tell you what he can do and what he can't.

I would want any wall brackets to be anchored to the studs, and not have the weight hanging on to the stone.
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Unread 01-27-2019, 10:40 PM   #273
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I'd rather replace the silicone down the road than have a vertical penetration on the knee wall. CX's solution is elegant but brackets are totally fine in my view. I've chosen a stainless steel bracket in that one location on the curb where I needed one. But I have a door hinged off that panel and wanted to stabilize the panel. I am not worried about replacing the silicone down the road but more about corrosion issues with the traditional brass brackets hence my choice. I do have brass for everything else vertical, though. These locations dry off more quickly anyway. But with the solid SS, you can always get it clean without worrying about a finish to come off to reveal the brass below.

Talk to your glass guy. They can also use epoxy to fasten panels. However, my concern would be that the flex the silicone provides is preferable over the epoxy. With tempered glass being under so much tension, the cushion around the edges to accommodate the expansion/contraction of all materials around it (plus the glass itself), the constant changes brought about by temperature changes, said cushion seems like a good idea to me.
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Unread 01-31-2019, 01:40 PM   #274
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What I knew, forgot, and re-learned – all for only $200.00

I of course checked the heat cable values per Schluter’s instructions; while on the spool, and then after installed in the Ditra heat matts before tiling. Schluter tagged the spool with 18.1 ohms between the two cold leads, and I got 18.2 with my ancient, cheap DMM. Zilch between each cold lead and the braided ground, as it should be. Once installed in the mats the reading across the cold leads crept up a bit, 18.7, but well within the 10% variation Schluter OK’s. Did not re-measure the ground. Same number after pre-filling the mat with grout. Solid.

Tiling came to an abrupt halt after setting about 35 square feet, when, out of curiosity, I decided to re-check the resistance of both the cold leads and each cold lead to the braided ground lead. Whoa. 21.7, and 12.something and fluctuating. A significant, and disconcerting, change. Checked again, slightly different numbers but still bad, bad news. And then again, and again slightly different numbers. The cold lead numbers were worrisome, but the presents of voltage on the ground suggested I somehow damaged the cable. Decided to contemplate what went wrong with a glass of wine. And then another. I mean, the numbers just had to get better after two glasses of wine, right? They didn’t.

Yesterday I checked again, hoping for a magical change. Nope. Replaced the 9V in the DMM with a 2 year old, but unused battery. That brought the cold lead number down into the mid 20’s but still more than 10% off from 18.2, and the numbers to the ground lead were still 12+ but fluctuating downward the longer I held the probe against the ground lead, and bottoming out between 8 and 9 ohms. Since the fresh/old battery seemed to help, a fresh/new battery would do the trick. Yeah, that’ll be a NO.

I’d been very careful with the cable, and very careful with my trowel. The end of the cable was not yet covered with tile, nor was the cold lead/hot lead connector, and the whole mess is encased and protected by a cover of mortar. So quite clearly my 30 year old DMM was done. Treated myself to a fairly expensive (to me) Fluke DMM which, to my bewilderment, produced the same numbers, all of them bad.

What I knew, forgot, and re-learned is this; do not hold the bloody DMM leads to the bloody wires by pinching the two together with your bloody fingers. For by doing so provides a convenient electrical path through your body for even the tiny current from the DMM.

Once I figured THAT out, again, the numbers returned to their previous values.
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Unread 01-31-2019, 02:03 PM   #275
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Good excuse to buy a new tool though!

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Unread 01-31-2019, 02:13 PM   #276
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Dan
What I knew, forgot, and re-learned is this; do not hold the bloody DMM leads to the bloody wires by pinching the two together with your bloody fingers.
Ha! Can say that happens all the time in electronics work; gotta keep that resistor called your body out of the circuit. Especially when its live line voltage. At least you didn't have that experience...yet.
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Unread 01-31-2019, 03:54 PM   #277
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You’re fingers must have been soaking wet to get readings in the tens of ohms range. Usually 200K and up; but still should have close to infinite reading.
The heating wire is pretty durable, but I handled my install with extreme delicacy. Used the insulation tester as Schluter recommended, and would have known instantly if I got my fingers on there (which I did - once!). That thing has a good bite to it!
Glad you didn’t have to tear out any of the wire. A decent VOM is always handy to have.
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Unread 02-01-2019, 08:50 AM   #278
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ali
Good excuse to buy a new tool though!
I don't usually struggle with justification, but this was painful because - as it turned out, there was nothing wrong with the old one!

Quote:
Originally Posted by PC
At least you didn't have that experience...yet.
Well, not on this project.


Quote:
Originally Posted by Jeff
You’re fingers must have been soaking wet...
Not at all. The old MM was set read ohms, range was set to 200. The new Fluke also set to ohms, but is auto ranging so left it there. When measuring between the cold leads and the ground - using my fingers of course, both meters would start anywhere between 10.00 something and 12.00 something, and the reading would immediately start decreasing, rapidly at first and then slowing considerably.

Totally freaked me out.
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Unread 02-03-2019, 08:37 AM   #279
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Was finally making good progress on the main floor tile, until I wasn't.

In an epic fail to massage one of the floor leveling clips to be tighter against an already set tile I managed to chip the edge of the tile. I'll only say that if I saw someone else attempting to use the same tools that I did for that task I'd have said "dude, you're gonna chip that tile". Anyway, it had to come out. It had been set for about a week. I used a nail punch on multiple spots to fracture it then pried up the pieces. Thankfully it didn't try to pull the heat cable up with it. Took my time with a 5-in-1 to shave off the dried mortar and reset that tile, then continued on. That was a 2 hour lesson.

The Spin Doctor anti-lippage system works well, but of course the fingers of the bases get in the way of troweling. Not a big issue once I honed my technique - such as it is, to get around them. The tiles I'm using are very uniform in size so I could have easily gone with 1/16th spacing, but had to go with 1/8" because the tile to wall gap at the back wall would have been too wide with the 1/16th lines for the baseboard to cover.

Given the flat floor, and pretty flat tile, I decided to give the 3/8 X 3/8 slant notch trowel a go, but had a 1/2 X 1/2 on hand for back up. The 1/2 X 1/2 wasn't necessary at all, I was getting great coverage with the 3/8 X 3/8 slant notch, as verified by the 4 tiles I pulled back up after setting them (not to mention the one I had to remove after a week of being set). I did sponge off the back of each tile first, then burned a coat of mortar on, then troweled the floor and set. One at a time. I used Custom's Pro-Lite mortar. The slant notch is nice, the ridges fall over into the valleys easily, takes very little effort to fully bed the tile. My very non-professional assessment.
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Unread 02-03-2019, 10:38 AM   #280
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Awesome Dan! Looks super clean.
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Unread 02-03-2019, 12:04 PM   #281
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Been there! Glad you were able to extricate the chipped one and install a new tile in so cleanly!
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Unread 02-03-2019, 02:00 PM   #282
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Thanks Chuck!

Not as glad as I was, PC.
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Unread 02-03-2019, 07:29 PM   #283
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Damn, that looks great. I'm a fan of the marble look without the associated hassle of natural stone.

The OCD is strong here, even stronger than mine. Looking forward to more updates.

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Unread 02-04-2019, 07:19 AM   #284
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ali
The OCD is strong here, even stronger than mine.
I think that's debatable.

Took a while to get the flow of those 12X24's the way I wanted. Laid the out all the whole tiles I could, then moved a bunch around, eye ball it, move some more. Rinse, repeat, numbered them, pull them back out. What I didn't get right was centering the whole mess. Should have shifted it to the left by a couple of inches so the shorts on the left would more or less equal the shorts on the right where they'll meet the shower floor. A minor fail.

But a major win is that my knee wall is darn close to parallel to the 7' long shower wall. With the 6.5' level against the knee wall, and then measuring from the long wall to the edge of the level, I'm out only 1/8" at the far end. Adjusted the level to give me 45" off the wall on both sides, marked the tiles with a sharp pencil and snapped 'em on the line. Still getting the hang of the Sigma so had to clean up one cut but the other 4 were very clean.
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Unread 02-04-2019, 10:35 AM   #285
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Still baffled by variable Ohm readings

As a follow up to my previous, and long winded, adventure with DMM's and Schluter heat cable I still can't get my head around what is going on with the ohm readings. To wit:

Before I removed the chipped tile the ohm reading across the two cold leads was 18.7 (Schluter marked the spool with 18.1). I took another reading immediately after I removed the tile, just to be sure I hadn't hurt the cable. Resistance had jumped to 21.4, but still 0 across the leads to ground. Huh. Nothing I could do about it now, so went ahead and set a new tile to replace the chipped one, and continued setting other tiles.

After I finished setting tiles for the day, and cleaned up, I took yet another reading; resistance was now 17.6 and 0 on the ground. I'm a bunch happier with 17.6 opposed to 21.4, but cannot figure out why it would have gone down. The only other change is that the end of the cable, where the factory termination is, is now tiled over.

Only thing I can think of is as I worked to remove the chipped tile and dried mortar I generated enough heat in the cable (hard to imagine) to raise the resistance, and once it cooled the resistance dropped. But why would it drop below my previous 18.7 reading?
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