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Unread 11-25-2020, 03:33 PM   #46
zink88
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Thanks for the quick response. Contractor is planning to use 2x4s for the curb instead of the Kerdi foam curb. If he goes that route, how should he level the curb left to right? I understand about the pitch in towards the shower.
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Unread 11-25-2020, 04:25 PM   #47
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Personally, I'd probably use a power plane. I'd probably avoid shims as I'd prefer to have 100% contact to eliminate any possibility of it bowing under weight. It could be done with a taper attachment on a table saw and maybe even with a belt sander with a coarse grit.
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Unread 12-29-2020, 04:52 PM   #48
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Any recommendations on which manufacturer and series to select for the transom window and which to avoid?
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Unread 12-30-2020, 07:31 AM   #49
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Is it gonna be getting wet, Jim?
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Unread 12-30-2020, 08:17 AM   #50
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Bottom of window will be ~ 69" above shower floor. It may get wet from spray bouncing off the person in the shower. The plan is to use a vinyl or fiberglass window.
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Unread 12-31-2020, 08:42 AM   #51
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Upon further investigation, I am leaning towards either a Marvin Essential or Pella Impervious fiberglass window.

(1) If the plan is to tile the inside ledge of the window, is it better to get the window with the jamb extensions and tile over them or to order it without the jamb extensions and build the necessary extensions on site to ensure appropriate sill slope into the shower?

(2) Would tile only go over the jamb extension area or does it also go over the frame up to the bead holding the window in place?

For the Marvin window, the manufacturer supplied jamb extension thickness is 13/32" less than the frame thickness. I have not been able to find similar information for the Pella window.

Hopefully the attached picture clarifies my questions.
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Unread 12-31-2020, 10:56 AM   #52
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This is the window we see in a couple of your photos, Jim? Looks a lot closer to the floor than 69" if that's the case. What am I missing there? You've perhaps converted the opening to accommodate a much shorter awning window? You'll be starting with just a rough opening in the exterior wall?

With any window in a wet area where you intend to tile the jamb and stool areas, I would not want any sort of wood jamb or jamb extension at all. You'll need to be able to use a tile substrate, likely a CBU or foam board, to finish out those areas and waterproof them prior to tiling.

Dealer's choice on the window brands. I've used both and generally prefer the Marvin window over the Pella window for design and especially for service in my area. Or at least did when I was buying windows and doors on a regular basis.

My opinion; worth price charged.
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Unread 12-31-2020, 12:12 PM   #53
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Not the same window as in the pictures. That window is being removed and new framing for a 60" x 13.5" window that will be moved to be centered in the shower with the header of the new window at ~ 13.5" below ceiling. Exterior siding has to be removed, so yes, starting with just a rough opening in the wall and new framing will allow for new construction installation of the window with nail fin.

New window will be fixed & fiberglass. Factory installed jam extensions are PVC which is what I would have considered if jamb extensions were made on-site.

I found this diagram on another post dealing with waterproofing a window.

So the recommendation would be to do something similar where I use either CBU or Kerdiboard thinset directly to the wood framing rough-in in lieu of PVC jamb extensions that are then covered by CBU or Kerdiboard, correct?
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Unread 12-31-2020, 04:57 PM   #54
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Not quite. You want your CBU or KerdiBoard attached to the framing with mechanical fasteners per manufacturer's instructions. While you might get by gluing them on with some construction adhesive, you don't wanna try to bond them to the dimension wood with thinset mortar. Be sure to slope the stool piece to the drain side.

Kerdi fix to the window, good; Kerdi Fix between horizontal and vertical pieces in that drawing not at all necessary nor useful.

My opinion; worth price charged.
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