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Unread 09-23-2023, 09:06 AM   #76
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Like in post 70, cut a scrap tile with the bevel on it to set up in the window to gauge with. This will show what size the L cut needs to be. Any measurements you make add 1/8 for thinset.

I would check the window sill for level and make the cuts under the window all the same size. If it's out of level then the pieces inside the window make have to be buttered up slightly. Add pitch to those inside the window.


Last edited by Davy; 09-23-2023 at 09:25 AM.
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Unread 09-23-2023, 09:30 PM   #77
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I made a piece that was 45'ed and added 1/8 spacers to the bottom of it. I already pitched the window seal when I installed the GoBoard.

I was worried about cutting these... My Wet saw only angles 1 way, So I could only make one of the cuts with it and had to do the long side by hand. I used this blade for that.


Blade cuts great, but is there an easier or better way to grind/sand that 45 by hand. Something thats less forgiving? With that above style blade there is very little room for mistakes.
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Last edited by cx; 09-24-2023 at 07:55 AM.
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Unread 09-27-2023, 10:46 PM   #78
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Well crap this happened. What is the best way to fix this...?
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Unread 09-28-2023, 05:12 AM   #79
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Looks like kerdi is fine, just scrap the thinset down as much as possible and reset tiles using slightly loose thinset backbuttered on tiles.

I had to reset several octagon tiles on my recent curbless shower floor to correct tile edge alignment problems. Even slight lippage on the 2” rectified octagon tiles are unforgiving on bare feet.

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Unread 10-24-2023, 12:01 AM   #80
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Tiling the last part of my Shower. Maybe I'm over thinking this,,

How should I go about tiling this last part above the window.

Should I screw a board below the top row and get those set first. Then set the tile under it, so I can tape the tile to the top row to prevent them from sliding down while it sets?

How do you guys do it?
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Unread 10-24-2023, 08:35 AM   #81
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If you intend to continue the same wall layout, I'd simply install the next row, then put a ledger board under the top of the window, supported by some props from the bottom of the window, and continue tiling. If you're still back-beveling all the tiles around the window, you'll need to use a spacer above the ledger board to allow for that on the bottom of the top row of tiles.

Not sure where the tape comes in in this application.

My opinion; worth price charged.

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