Ceramic Tile Advice Forums - John Bridge Ceramic Tile

Welcome to John Bridge / Tile Your World, the friendliest DIY Forum on the Internet


Advertiser Directory
JohnBridge.com Home
Buy John Bridge's Books

Go Back   Ceramic Tile Advice Forums - John Bridge Ceramic Tile > Tile & Stone Forums > Tile Forum/Advice Board

Sponsors


Reply
Thread Tools Search this Thread
Unread 09-11-2019, 10:24 AM   #16
speed51133
Registered User
 
Join Date: May 2017
Location: Milwaukee WI area
Posts: 670
im confused, if you lay the membrane right on the slab, will there be any slope???
__________________
Mike
speed51133 is offline   Reply With Quote
Unread 09-11-2019, 11:17 AM   #17
Lou_MA
Registered User
 
Join Date: Jul 2005
Location: Massachusetts
Posts: 860
I'm confused too. There's needs to be a flat but continuously sloped surface to the drain under the Kerdi and your concrete slab as-is won't provide that.

Take a look at post #1, rough-in details here https://www.johnbridge.com/vbulletin...ad.php?t=28637
__________________
Lou
Lou_MA is offline   Reply With Quote
Unread 09-11-2019, 11:28 AM   #18
chris86244
Registered User
 
Join Date: Sep 2019
Posts: 11
It is sloped (level is probably too hard to read in the picture). This is the surface the tile was previously set on. I used an angle grinder to get the old thin set off in hopes of reusing the base. The exposed sub-floor is where I plan to build the new curb.

-Chris
Attached Images
 
__________________
Chris
chris86244 is offline   Reply With Quote
Unread 09-11-2019, 11:38 AM   #19
speed51133
Registered User
 
Join Date: May 2017
Location: Milwaukee WI area
Posts: 670
Ok, so you will not kerdi the slab, but the existing pan. Check all the spots for slope. Especially the few inches by the close wall to the drain. Use a smaller level.
__________________
Mike
speed51133 is offline   Reply With Quote
Unread 09-11-2019, 12:04 PM   #20
chris86244
Registered User
 
Join Date: Sep 2019
Posts: 11
I erroneously starting using the word "slab" when I should have said "pan" earlier in the thread. I did not mean to cause confusion. I understand the difference now. Thank-you!
__________________
Chris
chris86244 is offline   Reply With Quote
Unread 09-11-2019, 03:00 PM   #21
Kman
Moderator
 
Kman's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2006
Location: NW Arkansas, Ozark Mountains
Posts: 10,852
If you have a good slope with no dips or humps that might impede the water from draining, then you can proceed as planned.

Just make sure you get the Kerdi drain flange flush with the floor around it. If it's too high or low, you'll have a problem.

For me, the biggest challenge would be getting the riser cut at just the right height. If I were doing what you plan to do, I'd dry-fit the drain until I knew I had the height just right. You can remove it as many times as needed to get the riser cut just right.

Remember,you can always cut a little more off, but you can't easily add more on. So make small cuts to the riser height til you get it right.
__________________
Kevin

The top ten reasons to procrastinate:

1.
Kman is online now   Reply With Quote
Unread 09-12-2019, 08:32 PM   #22
chris86244
Registered User
 
Join Date: Sep 2019
Posts: 11
Making progress... I think... can I just confirm what is being suggested as a next step?

I cut out the old drain out with an inside pipe cutter. My cut was right below the outlet of the old drain.

When I have the Kerdi drain level with my mud base, it's only about 1 1/2 inches from the outlet of the Kerdi drain to the waste pipe. I guess in a perfect world there would be a coupling about 2 inches in length with one end male and the other end female. Does that even exist? I can't find it.

Assuming that does not exist, I believe what is being suggested is for me to make another cut on the drain riser a few inches lower (it's about 3 1/2 inches to the water) so that I can fit on a coupling, then add a piece of typical 2" PVC pipe which will then go into the outlet of the Kerdi drain? Is this a typical rig... in other words would this pass code assuming I use primer and cement to join everything?

Also when I fill this all back in, its okay to just pack my mapei mud bed mix on top of dirt around the pipes since I am now below the slab as well as the mud bed?

I really appreciate all the advice I can get!
Attached Images
   
__________________
Chris
chris86244 is offline   Reply With Quote
Unread 09-12-2019, 09:03 PM   #23
Kman
Moderator
 
Kman's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2006
Location: NW Arkansas, Ozark Mountains
Posts: 10,852
Don't cut the riser any more. The coupling will fit over it, and an extra piece of pipe will make up the rest. That piece will be close to 2" long, if I'm seeing everything in your picture correctly. I would glue the coupling in place, then measure from the stop ring of the coupling to the stop ring on the Kerdi drain to get the exact measurement.

The coupling doesn't take up but about 1/8" of the height, since it slides over the two pipes it's joining together.

Incidentally, I think you'll have to break up some concrete around the riser to get the coupling on.

The difficult part for you is going to be getting enough mud in around the riser to support the drain. Basically, it'll have to be wet enough that you can push it around while setting the drain, but not so wet that it shrinks significantly, or falls down out of place as you pile it up around the riser. Not easy to do. It may even help if you take out a little more concrete where the drain flange will sit.

I'll see if I can find a video that demonstrates what to do.
__________________
Kevin

The top ten reasons to procrastinate:

1.
Kman is online now   Reply With Quote
Unread 09-13-2019, 01:22 PM   #24
chris86244
Registered User
 
Join Date: Sep 2019
Posts: 11
Thanks for the clarification on the riser. That saved me making a mistake! It makes sense now.

I’m guessing you weren’t able to find a video... I think it’ll be tricky but doable. Let me know if I’m overconfident.

I plan to break up about a 12-14 inch diameter circle for the flange about an inch or so deep, connect the coupling to the riser, fill in the major voids with mud, set the drain level with where the mud base is outside of my 12-14” circle, and then push additional mud beneath the flange so it’s packed snug. I’ve read that using a “soupy” thinset to bind the new mud to the old is a good idea.

First timer here, as always, any advice is welcome.
__________________
Chris
chris86244 is offline   Reply With Quote
Unread 09-17-2019, 06:12 PM   #25
Kman
Moderator
 
Kman's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2006
Location: NW Arkansas, Ozark Mountains
Posts: 10,852
I couldn't find a video specifically for what you're doing, since it's an uncommon install. But this one is pretty close. The only differences being that you're connecting the drain at the time of installation, and you're not using the tray.

But the general idea of installing the drain is the same. Skip to 12:20 on the video.
__________________
Kevin

The top ten reasons to procrastinate:

1.
Kman is online now   Reply With Quote
Reply

Stonetooling.com   Tile-Assn.com   National Gypsum Permabase


Thread Tools Search this Thread
Search this Thread:

Advanced Search

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Forum Jump

Similar Threads
Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
Bath remodel - reusing an existing mud base TheOldMan Tile Forum/Advice Board 9 05-23-2013 06:38 PM
restoring shower using existing cast base cmdecew Tile Forum/Advice Board 3 06-13-2011 01:22 PM
New tile over existing morter base? Apulpi Tile Forum/Advice Board 2 01-29-2010 07:01 PM
cove base versus existing baseboard CarlosD Tile Forum/Advice Board 2 06-20-2008 02:59 PM
Reusing existing mud base BJC Tile Forum/Advice Board 1 10-13-2004 11:15 PM


All times are GMT -6. The time now is 12:46 AM.


Sponsors

Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.7.4
Copyright ©2000 - 2019, Jelsoft Enterprises Ltd.
Copyright 2018 John Bridge & Associates, LLC