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Unread 02-15-2007, 12:25 PM   #1
Parmark
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Shower renovation

So what started as a few crack tiles on the whirlpool bath enclosure has now become a total bath/shower rehab. See photo's below. A couple of concerns regarding shower - and keep in mind, looking for economical route due to current jobless situation. I'm going back and forth between the total kerdi program or putting in mud floor and using kerdi membrane for walls. I want to just take off current tiles from wall - they almost fall off - and just replace with the new ones. Do I Need to replace the total wall boards and if so - with what kind of backer - or if I go with kerdi membrane does that solve that problem? I just purchased both the Kerdi pdf book and John's TYW book so I'll have a better knowledge and know what not to do as much as how to do what I want. Thanks for any all help and suggestions.
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Unread 02-15-2007, 12:55 PM   #2
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Hi Mark, Glad you made it here.

I would take everything out and start from scratch. I know you're pressed for cash, but doing it partway will only buy you a little time, and you'll end up doing a full installation later.

I would use the Kerdi method because I think it's the simplest, but there is certainly nothing wrong with using cement backer board with a PVC shower pan liner. We have some shower articles posted in our Liberry.
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Unread 02-15-2007, 12:57 PM   #3
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More info

By the way - my name is Mark, suburban Chicago area. If I want to include a bench in the shower area - this is coming out, will now be about 48x48, which made the kerdi pan an attractive alternative to mixing mud in 2 degrees weather - if i went this route with the bench, do I center the drain from the walls, or do I lay the bench in first, and then center off that.

Also - only my wife can find the one kind of tile in America that is being discontinued. So we found enough of the time - the problem is no bullnose locally. And the one place that has it - Boston - will cost more to ship than to buy. I'm thinking of using Schluter alternative for vertical needs, but want to have the bullnose for the tiles that you'd walk on, the horizontal edges of step and bath level. Problem is my tile is a white gloss finish over red cermanic. Is it possible to makemy own bullnose - or any other suggestions - other than find new tile?
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Unread 02-15-2007, 03:14 PM   #4
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A bit confused

So as I'm reading the Kerdi online info - my question is in terms of the shower base. I want to add a bench... Do you suggest to go with the Kerdi base - again the 48x48 works for me here, or do I go with the mud base, and then purchase the Kerdi membrane separately? TThank you.
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Unread 02-16-2007, 11:10 AM   #5
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Where to purchase Kerdi shower

Folks - Mark here, Chicago area. I want to get started sooner than later on putting in a Kerdi shower, including the pre-formed 48x48 pan. Can anyone direct me where I might be able to physically go to purchase this. I realize I can order online, I"d like to save shipping charges and have this sooner than later. Thanks for any input.
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Unread 02-16-2007, 11:20 AM   #6
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Hi Mark,

They probably don't stock everything you need, but Home Depot should be able to order anything Schluter makes. There has got to be somebody in the great city of Chicago that has everything you need though.

Use Schluter's dealer locator, and then get on the horn to the ones nearest you.

http://www.schluter.com/locator/index.php
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Unread 02-16-2007, 11:50 AM   #7
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Thanks

Thanks for the response Dan - I tried Home Deposit - they have more of my legal tender then I care to admit with all the projects I've done over the years. It didn't appear they had this in stock, especially pan part - but I'll try again with them. Do you know do they carry the membrane?
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Unread 02-16-2007, 11:55 AM   #8
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I've seen Ditra in the tile isle, but I don't know if I've ever seen Kerdi. I would be shocked if they stocked the pan.

Punch in your Zip code in the link I gave you. I bet there's a Century Tile or Datile nearby that can help you.
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Unread 02-16-2007, 12:26 PM   #9
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Check ebay. There are at least 2 stores that ship next day. I wasn't able to find better deal than that. Beware you might need to order more mat/bands if you're tiling for steam
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Unread 02-16-2007, 09:04 PM   #10
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I'm hear to tell you -there's only one choice - the TYW store. Not even close in terms of the prices - even vis-a-vis HD or anyplace else. Lesson learned.
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Unread 02-19-2007, 12:39 PM   #11
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Is Shower Door Necessary??

Can someone help me here. With the way I'm pushing back wall separating bath and shower to accomodate bench - this will be half wall and glass blocks in between shower and bath - and another half walll /glass block wall I'm adding to replace half of current sliding shower door, we are wondering- do I absolutely NEED a shower door. Photo is below. My new shower floor will be48x48, with the bench recessed on the current bath surround, so I'm not giving up any space with the bench. But doing it this way, I giving up the support where the door will close. Has anyone done this size shower without a door - sure would make my life simpler.
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Unread 02-19-2007, 01:20 PM   #12
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Can you hang a glass door on the other wall Mark (as you face the shower, the wall on the right)?

No door at all sounds attractive, it does, but I think it will make for a cold shower.

Dan
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Unread 02-19-2007, 01:49 PM   #13
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Dan - Thanks for response. I wasn't thinking about how it would be cold - good catch. I'm only looking at it from a point of logistics. Facing the shower as you see the photo - I was planning on bringing a half wall out from the shower head wall - to what would be about half way of the current sliding doors. The current half wall glass wall that separates the bath and tub - I was going to remove that wall - push it BACK towards he tub - that's just wasted space between the tub and shower, though there are pipes and the whirlpool motor beloew it that I access from the attic below, so I don't really need to get into this space from the bathroom, at least I don't currently anyways - and I was going to then use the recess space as my bench in the shower. We were going with just a one piece shower hinged door hinged off the new half wall with glass blocks off shower head wall to hold the door, but didn't realize when it closed - there would be an opening now where the bench is. I could include another wall at the end of the new bench and wall/tub separator, I guess that would solve my problem. Or does anyone else have any suggestion advice. The problem I foresee is the new half wall separating bath/tub was going to be 42 " high - this includes current height of base surround, then 24" for wall, then 4 rows of glass block. If i went that way I''d have to make the new wall to support shower door at the end of the bench to meet the same dimensions, couldn't be all glass block. But I think that could work.
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Unread 02-19-2007, 11:09 PM   #14
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I've got one doorless shower out there that's about that size and shape or maybe only a tiny bit bigger, as I recall, Mark. Unfortunately, I've slept since then.

The door opening is probably right at 24", centered in the wall. Works fine. Tile floor outside, of course, and a mat is all that's required to deal with any splash-out.

Or so I'm tole. I ain't never took no shower in there, I just built it.

My opinion; worth price charged.
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Unread 02-20-2007, 10:27 AM   #15
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How to pull out basin

I'm going with the preformed Kerdi pan. I just have to trim less than two inches off each side, but I think if I watch my grout lines I can make this work and be sure they match up. It's really only two walls that will meet up that I have to worrk about anyways. I'm just concerned that when I take my current basin out -that the preform will be high enough, that basin could be a few inches more than the preform, I won't know until I get it off. Is there any trick to taking that up - I'm concerned both about the drain - if it's attached I'll really screw things up - this is on a second floor with no access to the drain. And I did see when looking at a back view from a first floor attic access - I could see the current pan was glued to some extent to the current wall board. I saw one thread I could bring my circluar saw down to about 1/2 inch and score out above the basin to get this out, and then just fill in the gap between the preform base and the wall I've taken out. And I might just use a cbu or mortar bed to raise the new base up if necessary - does that make sense?
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