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Unread 04-04-2021, 09:22 PM   #46
diydanny
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Thanks cx. I can make the joint now and should be within spec. I’ll double check the length.

As far as the grout line joint I was not planning on it any longer since that width fell within the guidelines. I still can make a grout line joint if that’s a good idea?
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Unread 04-04-2021, 09:32 PM   #47
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All depends upon the tiles and the conditions you expect for that floor. If you never have direct sunlight or moisture, you'll likely be fine at that width, but I'd not wanna leave that length unbroken were it mine.

My opinion; worth price charged.
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Unread 04-04-2021, 10:01 PM   #48
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Thanks cx!

I double checked layout for length and I can saw cut (after the fact) a 8’ long movement joint (across the plank pattern) and be able to attach a 2x4x10 or an aluminum straightedge to be able to obtain a <=25’ long section. With this info should I get a handheld circular type wet saw and get to work with the widest blade I can find?

I’m literally right at the edge of the 25’ rule now for a tiled joint as cx suggested but I think that too is somewhat doable for me. I’ll be honest, my cuts are not precise. I am banking on all of them being covered by baseboard or a threshold. So I think a cut after the fact following a guide would be best.
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Unread 04-05-2021, 04:58 AM   #49
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I your expansion joint runs needs to fall in alignment with the length side of the planks, you can place a few joints simply by not grouting them in. After the grout cures, take these joints and ensure that they are fully cleared of setting material, then caulk them with an appropriate 100% silicone. That’s the simplest way to allow movement accommodation via “soft-joints”.

If you need an expansion joint running perpendicular to the length side of the planks, and can honor during installation. You can cut it in ex post facto simply tape of the section with masking tape, run a straight edge to draw the line onto the tape. Then you can use an angle grinder to cut to the line or along the edge of the straight edge. Use a shop vac for dust collection, and have fans for ventilation.
On the first pass I’d simply run the grinder with a decent porcelain mesh blade and kiss the surface in order to mark your cut line into the surface of the tile. Then slowly and deliberately run the grinder in a few inch segments at a time cutting all the way into and through the tile.
Do so for the length of your cut line, then to open the joint wider simply repeat the process with edges of your blade. The method to have less chip-outs is to use the grinder and a grinding by simply using the speeds of the blade rotation to eat away at the material at a 1/64” and on
if you have access to a polisher or variable speed grinder, running it lower rpms will help with dust control, chip prevention, accidental grinder runways. Then take a rubbing stone, diamond pad sponge, tile file, or diamond grit diamond pads to ease the cut edges and clean up any slight chipping.
If you have an extra set of hands and can keep the blade damp with a misting, or bottle of water with holes in the lid, of tile sponge with water; it’ll help preserve blade life and keep the chipping down

Let me know if any of this makes sense or not, if not I can dig into the archives for some in progress pics of doing expansion joints
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Unread 04-05-2021, 08:01 AM   #50
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Looks good.
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Unread 04-05-2021, 08:40 AM   #51
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Hi Dan!

Your floor looks gorgeous, IMO--I'm sure your lady wife will be thrilled when it's done.

Re that "Oh, God, why did I start this?" feeling: I got that when I decided tiling was so much fun that I wasn't going to do just a little backsplash in my kitchen, I was going to do two full walls countertop to ceiling. It hit me about halfway through, when I had laid just enough tile on the second wall that it would look bizarre if I stopped.

What helped me was audiobooks. I loaded up a few on my phone, connected some Bluetooth headphones, and just kept going with the tile. I picked a couple of favorite books to start with (so I wouldn't get bored/accidentally pick a sucky one, which has happened to me since), and was lucky enough to once or twice actually not want to stop tiling because I wanted to keep listening.

If you're not a book person, a series of favorite podcasts or even a favorite TV show to binge listen to on Netflix or whatever also works. It enabled me to just focus on listening and kind of get into an autopilot type of rhythm with the tile, and I found it very helpful--it also encouraged me to go ahead and grout when the time came and I felt like I wanted nothing to do with tile ever again (I had also tiled my dad's bathroom floor [using large-format tile and the same mortar you're using, over mortared-and-screwed-down cement board] and the front porch, so I did a *lot* of tile that summer.

Although, I did eventually wear myself out, and made myself ill from lack of sleep etc., and left an area of kitchen wall ungrouted for about 2.5 years; after taking a week or so off to recover I just couldn't bring myself to lift a tile tool again. (It is done now, and thankfully worked out fine.) So be careful of that, too. Remember, it takes as long as it takes; there's no prize for wearing yourself out to finish faster.

I hope that's helpful! Best of luck to you, you're doing a great job!
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Unread 04-05-2021, 07:27 PM   #52
diydanny
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Thanks a ton Chris. Makes perfect sense much appreciate the info. Using a handheld grinder making that straight line is next level for me. I do not think I have near that ability. That being said Im gonna try to do a perpendicular movement joint across the planks where I am at now. I’m right at about 25’ long, perfect timing. Since my cuts are not that perfect, unfortunately, I am planning a strong plan B. I have eyeballed this guy:

https://www.homedepot.com/p/rental/M...oduct-overview

I am planning to make a couple small cuts to see if I can successfully install this cross plank movement joint where I am at now per cx. If these cuts suck, (which I think they will) I’ll remove them and finish the project.

Then, plan B is attach a straight edge across the planks and rip the rented saw along it for the movement joint. I’m gonna find out the thickest blade I can rent. Whatcha guys think?

And cx yup I’m putting a grout line soft joint now like originally planned. Better safe than sorry.

Thanks again cx and Chris.

Thanks guys I messed up plenty but still trucking. I have a hdtv on in the background or a radio, depending on how I feel. As hard a job as this is it seems to kinda smooth my ocd if that makes sense. Lol.
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Unread 04-21-2021, 05:42 PM   #53
diydanny
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Here’s some more progress and an update. I decided to go with a sawtooth movement joint as a last resort. Because of:

1. My skill level and, 2. My layout where I was at the time. (The blue tape is the sawtooth movement joint.)
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Unread 04-21-2021, 05:45 PM   #54
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Looks really nice Dan.
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Unread 04-21-2021, 05:50 PM   #55
diydanny
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Thanks mrbottleneck!! I messed up a bunch to be honest. But I’m hoping the grout stage will help hide the issues. The wife is happy so I’m good for now. Lol
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Unread 04-28-2021, 08:04 PM   #56
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Im finally at the point of thinking about grout. Happy to be at this point. Lol. So far, I am 100% at custom’s prism cementious grout.

I was seriously considering custom’s fusion pro, but after reading the instructions it can only go 1/2” deep.

My grout lines are 3/16”. But, with my mistakes, I need to span 1/4” to 1/16” with deepest area of approx 3/4”, I suppose.

What do you guys recommend?

I am planning to do a couple test boards with garbage tile pieces to figure out the color match.
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Unread 04-28-2021, 10:02 PM   #57
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Another good choice you might like is Mapei FlexColor CQ.
Super easy to use.

Floor looks great.
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Unread 04-29-2021, 07:22 AM   #58
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I've used them all many times and the Prism is what I'd use. Just make small batches because it's considered a fast setting grout. It's probably the easiest grout I've ever used.

I like the Flex color too but it won't firm up in the joints which makes it easy to wash the joints too low. A pro that has grouted for years can avoid the low joints but it's harder for someone with less experience. And, I won't even mention the grout film that it might leave on the tiles.
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Unread 04-29-2021, 02:02 PM   #59
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Davy, I’m not trying to jump in on Danny’s post but, what do you think of the Prism Pro?
Would that be a good choice for him as well?
Isn’t that Customs so to say equivalent to FColor CQ?
Does it do better at at keeping joints fuller versus washing out?
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Unread 04-29-2021, 04:42 PM   #60
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Mike, Prism is a cementitious grout from Custom Building products.

Custom's equivalent to MAPEI's Flex Color CQ would be their Fusion Pro.

I know of no grout called Prism Pro, but they seem to slip in a new one every week.

My opinion; worth price charged.
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