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Unread 02-06-2009, 07:57 PM   #1
AmyW
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Hardibacker questions

Hey everyone! I'm Amy. I have been searching the forum about hardibacker but I just can't seem to find exactly what I'm looking for. I am doing my first tiling project and need a little advice on the hardibacker. I'm tiling a small bathroom. I've removed and replaced the subfloor which was rotted around the toilet. I have replaced it with 3/4" plywood and I have put down the hardibacker. I followed the instructions but I'm just a little confused. Okay, so I used laticrete multipurpose thinset polymer modified mortar between the hardibacker and the subfloor. According to the manufacturer's website, I should use a dry-set mortar. Did I mess up? Oh, I'll mention that I did use the proper screws to attach it as well. Okay, my next question is about taping the gap. The instructions say to leave a 1/8" gap between the boards and then fill it with the same mortar as beneath the boards. It says to spread the mortar about 2"-4" over the edges of the gap and embed 2" high strength alkali (something or other) fiber tape. I have bought a roll of that but I've yet to tape the joint. It says to use the trowel and level the mortar after taping the joint. Now, it just says to do that "prior to tiling". My question is, does that have to dry before tiling the floor? Ahhhh...newbie questions, gotta love 'em! Now, for my final question...for now...! The manufacturer recommends using latex or acrylic modified thinset to set the tiles. Will the laticrete multipurpose thinset polymer modified mortar be okay? I'm confused about the mortar/thinset lingo! I'm scared to set the tiles because I don't want to use the wrong type of mortar. I'm sorry if I've repeated questions that have already been answered on here! Thanks for reading my lengthy post. I look forward to your replies!
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Unread 02-06-2009, 08:08 PM   #2
Brian in San Diego
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Amy,

Welcome to the forum!

You want to use alkalai resistant mesh tape found near where the hardibacker is sold. You do not want regular old drywall mesh tape. I wouldn't stress over the modified thinset you used under the hardiebacker. Dryset means unmodified. Anytime you see the words "fortified" or "polymer enriched" you are dealing with a modified thinset. You can also look on the bag and look for the ANSI spec it conforms to. ANSI A118.1 is dryset or unmodified. ANSI A118.4 or A118.11 is modified.

You can thinset and tape the joints of the hardie as you lay tile. You don't have to wait for it to cure before starting to tile.

All of us here hope you have checked the deflection of your joist structure to see if it is up to handling the tile you intend to set over it. (Deflecto tool in the dark blue toolbar above.)

Brian
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Unread 02-06-2009, 08:24 PM   #3
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Hi Amy.....

Welcome to Tile Your world forums. :--)

Amy Axed':.....

Quote:
According to the manufacturer's website, I should use a dry-set mortar. Did I mess up?
Nope Amy..... I can find you Hardi Installation instructions that call for either modified or dry set between the Hardi and the subfloor. Your fine. At least you have used thinset between your CBU and your ply subfloor.... which is betteren' what many posters here-abouts' seem able to do.
Quote:
about taping the gap....it (the instructions) just says to do that "prior to tiling". My question is, does that have to dry before tiling the floor?
Nope. Pros here-a-bouts tape CBU joints as they tile to avoid dried speed bumps. Me.... and lots like me.... have all we kin' do just to get the tile on straight let alone worry about taping and mudding CBU joints at the same time.
Consider taping and mudding all CBU joints first..... it's easier that way for us DIY tilers.
Quote:
Will the Laticrete multipurpose thinset polymer modified mortar be okay?
That Laticrete multipurpose is good pookie’ to be settin' ceramic tiles with Amy....
tile on!

Hope this helps.

EDIT:....... I see fast finners' Brian done beat me, Amy. What he says goes too.
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Unread 02-06-2009, 08:29 PM   #4
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Hi Amy,

Well you must have power over there now unless your running your Internet on batteries

You should go ahead and add your name to your signature line under the Quick Links before CX or someone comes along and nags you to do it. That makes it easier for folks arround here to know who therea talkin to without having to go back through your first post.

Just make sure you don't have any four corners of that hardiebacker touchin each other too.
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Unread 02-06-2009, 08:42 PM   #5
AmyW
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Thanks for such speedy replies! I checked the deflecto thing, and according to it, the deflection is, L/703, so I'm good to go! You've been great help in answering my questions. Yes, the tape I bought is what you said, LOL. I didn't mean to sound stupid, it was just that I couldn't remember the whole long technical name of it. Great, I am going to mortar and tape the joint first, but go ahead and start with my tile. I am definately going to read up again on grouting before I get to that stage! You have been a BIG help, thanks again! If all goes well in the bathroom, I'm going to take on the kitchen!
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Unread 02-06-2009, 08:46 PM   #6
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Dave,
Haha! Actually, we were only without power here at my house for 6 hours. I was lucky! And yes, already added it to the signature, thought I did before my first post, but I had accidently added it elsewhere.

I actually only had to use 2 pieces of the hardibacker and they were the length of the bathroom. They went wall to wall. Like I said, SMALL bathroom! haha
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Unread 02-07-2009, 07:23 AM   #7
Brian in San Diego
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Amy,

I don't think even CX woulda pestered you into adding your name to the signature line since your screen name has it right there.

Sounds like you have a plan. Ask all questions for this project here on this thread...helps us to keep all our stories striaght.

Brian
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Unread 02-07-2009, 08:27 AM   #8
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It was missin in the first post cause she put it somewheres else.
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Unread 02-08-2009, 08:58 PM   #9
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I laid my tile yesterday! I am so impressed with how it looks and the ease in which it went down. The only problem that arose was cutting the arcs in the tiles that went around the toilet pipe. I think I broke about 4-5 tiles trying to get them cut right! haha Ah well! I still haven't grouted the tile yet but plan on doing it tomorrow evening when I get off work. I'm confident in the grouting process, but I'm scared I'll not get it all off and mess up my pretty tile. Can you all give me any tips on grouting? I know the basics of grouting diagonally and to wipe off the excess with a damp clean sponge that is kept rinsed out and to turn in frequently. I just want to make sure this process goes as easily as tiling. I have been really impressed with myself, LOL. I will try to post some pictures when it's complete.
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Unread 02-08-2009, 09:39 PM   #10
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Amy, dont let your grout over dry. After i spread the grout, i take a damp sponge and go over the whole floor before it hazes over. When it starts to haze is when i wipe it off. Hammy
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Unread 02-11-2009, 07:50 PM   #11
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Hey all! Would it be too much to ask for a step-by-step grouting lesson? I am pretty sure I know the basics, but I am still very hesitant to grout my tile. I am terrified that I'll mess it up. I have read so many things about grout being bad straight from the bag and about not adding liquid enhancers and so on. Should I or should I NOT add the liquid enhancer? Ahhh....I'm so nervous about grouting that the rest of my bathroom redo is at a stand still until the grout is done.
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Unread 02-11-2009, 08:05 PM   #12
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First of all, which grout are you using. PolyBlend (Custom) is already modified...no need to use admix.

I'll give you my step-by-step but it may not be the right way to do it. First of all, go to costco and get some of those yellow microfiber cloths in the tool area. They are perfect for the clean-up.

I mix the grout like I was mixing thinset. i scoop the grout out of the bucket with a trowel and make a pile I can comfortably work with in 1/2 hour. I spread it around using my grout float and make sure I'm forcing it into the joints. once I've got the joints filled I take my float and I hold it at a 45* angle and run it diagonally across the joints to wipe up the excess grout. Once the grout has set for the manufacturer's recommended time before clean-up I begin cleaning. I usually have 3 buckets 1/2 full of water. The first two buckets have sponges and the last has the microfibers. I make an initial pass with a sponge and only wipe once and then flip the sponge and wipe again. Make sure to really wash the sponge out in the bucket. The second pass I make with the sponge from the second bucket. The third time I really wring out a microfiber and carefully clean the tile w/o touching the grout joints. Make sure when you wring anything out that you do it down inside the bucket. You do not want water splashing on the new grout. When the water in the first bucket gets too dirty, I chuck it out, rinse the bucket and fill it 1/2 way with clean water. The move the buckets up one position. The new one becomes the final wipe bucket. I repeat until I'm done.

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