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Unread 04-05-2020, 08:32 AM   #16
ss3964spd
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You're also going to want to screw down those 3/4" planks, Vignesh, if they aren't already. 2" construction type screws will do the trick. You might want to drill pilot holes and counter sink the screws at the seams where the ends of the planks meet because they will probably tend to split.
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Unread 04-05-2020, 09:07 AM   #17
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Hi Dan,
They are nailed to the Joists. Not screwed. Should I screw in-between?

Honestly I am surprised I have not had popping tiles or grouts so far.
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Unread 04-05-2020, 12:54 PM   #18
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Yes, add a screw between the nails you now have. Like Dan said, pilot holes would be a good idea.
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Unread 04-18-2020, 01:01 PM   #19
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Hi all thanks for replies and suggestions.

I have the planks screwed down and countersinked.

I researched this forum and outside.. It looks like 1/2 ply on top of this plank and DITRA membrane before tiling seems to be the popular choice given my situation. DITRA offering that separation for any movements.

What are your thoughts???
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Unread 04-19-2020, 06:50 AM   #20
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1/2", exposure 1 ply, with a face grade no lower than "C", followed by Ditra is a solid plan, Vignesh.

You will want to lay the ply so that it's long edge is perpendicular to the joists. Use 1 1/2" to 1 5/8" long construction or deck screws, and be sure the heads are sunk to at least the surface of the ply. A bit deeper is ok, but not too much. You'll generally want to avoid the joists but if you use the screw lengths above the screws won't penetrate into the joists far enough to get a good bite.

Be mindful of "screw jacking".
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Unread 04-26-2020, 10:41 AM   #21
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Hi Dan...

Can you explain this a bit more... I didnt quite get it..


Quote:
You'll generally want to avoid the joists but if you use the screw lengths above the screws won't penetrate into the joists far enough to get a good bite.
-- I was going to screw down the exiting 3\4 T&G dimensional lumber into the Joists first... Then put 1\2" ply like u said above... I wasnt going to screw them into Joists... just into the T&G Dim lumber... the 3\4 T&G is nailed down every 4 inch by what I am seeing... so there isnt much space for additional screws...

Quote:
Be mindful of "screw jacking".
--- What is screw jacking???
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Unread 04-26-2020, 11:01 AM   #22
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Vignesh
-- I was going to screw down the exiting 3\4 T&G dimensional lumber into the Joists first... Then put 1\2" ply like u said above... I wasnt going to screw them into Joists... just into the T&G Dim lumber... the 3\4 T&G is nailed down every 4 inch by what I am seeing... so there isnt much space for additional screws...
That is what Dan meant for you to do. There is a good article in our Liberry showing what I believe is the best way to install the second layer of plywood.

Screw jacking occurs when the screw threads are still engaged in the top layer and the point hits the bottom layer and pushes the top layer up before starting to thread into the bottom layer. That can result in gaps between the layers, which is not a good thing. You want to be sure to stand with one foot on either side of the screw while driving and put a substantial weight onto the screw.

With anything thicker than nominal 1/2" plywood I pre-drill the holes in the top layer to prevent that problem.

My opinion; worth price charged.
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Unread 04-27-2020, 05:52 AM   #23
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Thanks Appreciate it.
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Unread 05-17-2020, 11:55 AM   #24
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Now that i have to do the ditra, it will not be flush to the wedi shower curbless pan. Is this a problem. There is a 1/8 inch lip (shower below floor).

Can i just do the wedi subliner over the lip? or do I have to do something different??
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Unread 05-18-2020, 08:14 AM   #25
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I think I understand the issue, Vignesh, but I'd like to see a photo showing the entire shower opening.
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Unread 05-22-2020, 06:33 AM   #26
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Hi Dan,
I have attached pictures here. Please take a look and let me know.

One of the wedi support person recommended to use some kind of patching compound to smooth over the transition. Not sure what you think of that.
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Unread 05-26-2020, 07:17 AM   #27
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I see the issue now Vignesh. Even without the Ditra (is that what that stuff is?) it appears your subfloor is a bit above the shower pan in some spots.

I think the only way you'll be able to resolve that is to install the Ditra(?) up to the edge of the shower pan, then use thinset mortar to build a "ramp" into the shower by 4-6 inches. You'll then need to cover the transition with a waterproof membrane by 4-6 inches in both directions.

In the last photo I see the planks, I trust those are now covered with 1/2" plywood.

An option for you. Since you have to waterproof that bathroom floor to shower floor transition (and build that small ramp), you might consider not using the Ditra(?) and using Kerdi instead. Kerdi, being thinner than Ditra, would mean your ramp would be much less and it will waterproof the transition. Be aware, too, that you should waterproof the floor to wall joint a bit past the shower opening.

I'm not sure that Kerdi is technically supposed to be installed over plywood on a floor but I can't really see why it wouldn't work. Here's a post from back in 2012 asking the same question. https://www.johnbridge.com/vbulletin...ad.php?t=98748

I went back and read your initial posts. If I'm digesting the information correctly - is your shower 32" wide as measured from front of the Wedi pan to the long back wall? How long is it? Do you intend to install a glass partition/door?
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Unread 05-26-2020, 01:01 PM   #28
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Thanks Dan.

I only went with Ditra because of the plank subfloor and it was recommended that I go with Ditra to isolate movements. Prev, like i had mentioned in the original post, prev tile installation had Hardiboard screwed to the plank subfloor. no membranes or anything and we never faced any issues.

Is Kerdi also a crack isolating? if so I have a crack isolating waterproofing membrane from Wedi as well.

With reg to your other questions,

1) Shower is 32 inches wide and 60' long.
2) Yes i intend to put a glass door.
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Unread 05-28-2020, 12:01 PM   #29
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I think I'm still missing something. I understand you have the planks, but thought I also understood that you've covered those planks with 1/2" plywood. Maybe I missed it from a previous post.

If you have indeed covered the planks with properly installed plywood, cracks/movements in the subfloor should not be an issue, and therefore using Ditra for it's movement accommodation properties shouldn't be necessary, and its use would really only be to provide a better underlayment than tiling directly to the plywood. As you saw with the previous installation of planks/Hardie/tile cracks in the tile caused by movement was not an issue. Amazingly.

That's why I suggest Kerdi instead of Ditra in your case. Less height than Ditra, should bond to the plywood like Ditra, and you can run over the plywood to Wedi joint and onto the Wedi pan by 6" or so inches to make sure that joint is waterproof. And you so do want that joint waterproof.
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Unread 05-28-2020, 04:18 PM   #30
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Hi Dan,
Makes sense now

I do have most of it covered by plywood. final area not yet wanted to make sure before screwing last section of plywood down.

Just out of curiosity... why would a hardiboard on top of plank isolate movement just like plywood on top of plank? just for my understanding.
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