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Old 10-14-2018, 08:20 AM   #2956
Davy
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What's the price ? It's right at 7 bucks a bag in my area.
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Old 10-14-2018, 09:27 AM   #2957
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Another 50 cents
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Old 10-14-2018, 11:28 AM   #2958
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It's not awesome but I will take it or maybe it is horrible??? Be gentle it's my 2nd time. It did go a lot better than the first time
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Old 10-14-2018, 01:12 PM   #2959
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Looks like a clean scratch coat from my end. Is that Darby serrated on one end?
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Old 10-14-2018, 01:33 PM   #2960
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It's hard to say exactly what you've got there but as long as the overall plane of the walls is good then you can make it work. If you don't have one, I'd get a rub stone or rub brick for your finished walls. Give it a day to set first.
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Old 10-14-2018, 02:27 PM   #2961
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Thanks Chris, the Darby is smooth on both sides. I used a rake for for the scratch lines. I had a tough time bedding the lath on the overlaps in the stud bays. Lath might have gotten bent. I tried the zip ties I think Justin had mentioned in a earlier post it helped a bit but I was thinking bailing wire or concrete ties might be a better solution. I got some holidays on the right wall that I will have to knock off before I put my brown coat on. And I didn't do a niche cause I wasn't sure how thick the mud was going to end up and didn't want to miss the niche by a hair and end up with a sliver. I was thinking I could set a few rows and cut it in after I was sure where it was going to land. I planned on redgaurding it anyway. Can I do that? Davy I do have a rub brick and the walls are in line more or less no worse than they were before I scratched them, I do feel like the time wise the mud is going to be about the same as backer and waterproofing with less effort. Lath is a lot lighter but the backer board doesn't bite
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Old 10-14-2018, 04:15 PM   #2962
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I always make my wire overlap over a stud. That way I don't have any ends sticking out.

Like anything else, you'll get faster the more times you do it.
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Old 10-14-2018, 04:44 PM   #2963
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Davy
Like anything else, you'll get faster the more times you do it.
I look forward to that day. I have always hesitated to do it on a job 1. because I have never done it but you have to start somewhere right. and 2. I thought it would take longer but what I was getting at in the last post I feel like I am still in the same time frame as I would be if I was using backer or foam board but the end result will be better, but if it ends up that I spend a little more time mudding and the tiling will go faster, then I can't complain. I just need to man up and start slinging mud
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Old 10-14-2018, 05:48 PM   #2964
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You wouldn't be comparing apples to apples so it's not worth comparing. I wouldn't get in a hurry, it is worth taking a little extra time to get the mud walls flat before you walk away from it. It's much easier to clean up the corners etc while it's still wet. Trying to rub out a hump the next day with the rub stone turns into a job real fast.
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Old 10-14-2018, 09:10 PM   #2965
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Looks like a solid start Shawn! I'll use the zip ties on my horizontal seam overlaps if they are really bent up from some old lath I have lying around or just flop more than I like and snip off the tie when I pull it tight. Keeping the lath nice and flat from the store to the job helps a lot if you can do it.
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Old 10-15-2018, 05:50 AM   #2966
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Thanks Justin and yep the horizontal seams were the culprits, not all of them but a couple. at the studs they were flat as a overlap could be but between the stud there was a little bend. I zip tied them to bed the mud then a couple I cut the zip tie off. I will throw my rebar ties in the trailer for the next one. You know the ones I mean?
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Old 10-15-2018, 07:14 AM   #2967
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Is it the ones that have the loop already on them? I bought that little tool that hooks in them and you spin it to tighten when I poured a teeny tiny slab for my trash can lol. I plan on pouring a butt load of concrete this year. After being in California for two months, it spoiled me with concrete all around the house.
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Old 10-15-2018, 07:47 AM   #2968
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Yep those are the ones. Problem I had with zip ties was the "nub" where it tightens down was a little bump and I already tightened it down so couldn't rotate it around They make metal ones that are lower profile but I didn't have any of those with me. I think the rebar ones with the tool you have already would be faster and you could hammer it flat. Say you need 2-3 each between the studs, put them all in for the whole wall and then take your tool and zip them all down at once. These metal ones are handy where you have heat or maybe some rubbing and you can't use plastic. They can't be released like the plastic ones
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Old 10-15-2018, 09:41 PM   #2969
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I find a good jab with the trowel when doing the scratch manages to push the overlaps in.
I still hang my lath horizontal, no particular reason

Ive finally gotten around to putting my mixer on a trailer so its easy to transport. Scratched two showers in just over 2hrs with no helper.
The mixer is a huge help!
Will handle 4-5bags at a time, by the time I spread those the others are mixed

I wasnt sure if Id like using the mixer, but I do. So now I need to build some storage on it for my mud tools to keep it all in one place
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Old 10-16-2018, 08:41 AM   #2970
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Hi John. A mixer really helps as long as you have a place to wash it out. Not a problem usually on new construction.

With the trailer, you may have room to store sand. That would save money.
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