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Unread 11-06-2013, 03:42 PM   #1
chrsdrshm
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Tub to Shower Conversion



Well as you can tell this is my first post. I came across this site while researching the whole Kerdi Debate... I am so glad I found this... There is so much info my brain hurts.... I spend most of my time in XDA-Develpoers.com and Ruger and Beretta forums:-).

I have done a few DIY jobs, but this is my first Full Gut of a bathroom... Now i have searched regarding this question and have found helpful info, but i believe mine is unique (suuuuuuuurrreeee.......:-)). I have 2 bathrooms back to back... well sorta... the shower plumbing and vanity are on the same sides.. so back of tub meets back of other tub.....

So like many on here i did a minor upgrade to my guest bathroom (left tile and tub) but completyly gutted the master. I bought a kerdi shower kit. with shower pan and kerdi ABS drain.

Ok so here is where my question comes in... and to be honest, i am a little Intimidated with this part....

When i pickup my tub there is a large hole around the drain.. just like many other people on this forum... but my concrete hole runs to the other bathroom... and i really don't know what to do? do i just fill in the whole hole with gravel then put concrete on my side of the floor? do i put something in to block between the 2 bathrooms?... I have attached some pics to give you and idea:
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Here is one from a distance:
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Ill put up some before and during picts up to this point... been taking them every step....
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Unread 11-06-2013, 04:11 PM   #2
sycamorebob
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This is from the Schluter Showerhand book found here:
http://www.schluter.com/media/Shower...v=201311060601

1b
Fill in box-outs in concrete floors with dry-
pack mortar. A 4"(100 mm)-diameter plastic
pipe coupling or similar can be used as a
form around the waste line. Select form
to accom-modate the KERDI-DRAIN bonding
flange. Limit the hole diameter to 5"(125 mm)
maxi-mum to ensure proper support of the tile
assembly.

Your doing good keep going!
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Unread 11-06-2013, 07:32 PM   #3
chrsdrshm
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Thanks for the info!!
Do I just pack where the new shower is going or the entire opening including where the existing tub is?
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Unread 11-06-2013, 11:31 PM   #4
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Just that honkering huge hole in the floor, unless you're moving the drain to the center.
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Unread 11-07-2013, 07:35 AM   #5
chrsdrshm
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I am not moving the drain, but your saying I need to fill the entire hole? Even under the other bathroom tub? I Don't know if I could reach all the way under to the other tub...

I was wondering if I could make some sort of barrier or form so that I only have to work with the section where the new shower is going
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Unread 11-07-2013, 05:27 PM   #6
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Yes that will work use bricks or parts of concrete blocks. also you can fill some of the holes with packed sand leaving 4" to 5" for dry-pack
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Unread 11-07-2013, 07:34 PM   #7
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Great!! Thanks for your help
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Unread 11-07-2013, 09:04 PM   #8
chrsdrshm
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I put a level on my floor and noticed a slight lip around the opening of the hole. Can I just chisel that down an level it out when I dry pack the hole?
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Unread 11-08-2013, 02:47 PM   #9
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yes that's what I would do..
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Unread 12-11-2013, 10:21 AM   #10
chrsdrshm
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Drrrraaaaaaiiiiinsss.......

Well the shower renovation has been going ok. I have been putting off dealing with the drain for some time.... to be honest I just don't know what I should do.... I know that shower drains need to be 2in and what is there is 1 1/2. So I have attached a video so you can see what I am working with. I am looking for some advice.. should I just call in the pros?

Click here for Video
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Unread 12-11-2013, 10:54 AM   #11
chrsdrshm
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Ok this is probably way easier said than done...

but if i could expose enough of the pipe after the ptrap, i could put a 90 on it, run pipe down length of the hole, install ptrap and then up to kerdi drain? assuming the pipe after the p trap is 2inches.... and assuming i can get enough room in there to dig it out and cut the pipe.

Should I worry about stress on the pipe to where it could break/crack further down the line, while digging around there?
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Unread 12-11-2013, 11:33 AM   #12
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Chris, is that 1 1-1/2" or a 2" drain pipe downstream from the trap?
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Unread 12-11-2013, 11:50 AM   #13
chrsdrshm
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Bodie,

It looks like its 2in. There is a 2 on the top, and the trap is 1 1/2

Here is a higher resolution image: CLICK HERE
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Unread 12-11-2013, 12:27 PM   #14
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Chris
Ok this is probably way easier said than done...

but if i could expose enough of the pipe after the ptrap, i could put a 90 on it, run pipe down length of the hole, install ptrap and then up to kerdi drain? assuming the pipe after the p trap is 2inches.... and assuming i can get enough room in there to dig it out and cut the pipe.

Should I worry about stress on the pipe to where it could break/crack further down the line, while digging around there?
Chris, that sure looks like 1/1/2" to 2 reducer, so I think what you're suggesting is possible, 2" to trap and Kerdi drain is what you're after, ideally.

You want the longest sweep ell you can find, expose enough pipe for access and be sure to get new line where you want it for Schluter pan. Perhaps it's obvious, but you also want to maintain minimum 1/4" per ft. fall on new pipe, but that would be hard not to do unless you were moving drain closer to center.

Don't think I'd worry to much about stress, unless you really horse on it or start chopping with some digging tool, it's not going to move much.

Welcome to the world of plumbing on SOG. I'm glad most of what I do is in crawlspace
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Unread 12-11-2013, 12:59 PM   #15
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I don't think there is any issue with the drain reducing to 1 1/2" .
When I did my Schluter shower last year I used a reducer on the ABS kerdi drain and then a 1 1/2" trap and all down from there. The drain drains so fast it's amazing. When you get far enough along, just make sure you don't mess up the inside of the drain with thinset or grout or anything else
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