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Unread 10-28-2020, 05:47 PM   #16
dreade
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Preslope

Thanks for the advice. Although a centred drain would be nice, I left it in place to avoid cutting a joist that's in the way.

I floated the preslope mortar bed today. I mixed the mortar as per the directions on the bag and the consistency was damp to moist - formable, but not wet. It took me a while to get the slope right, and by the time I did, the mortar was already starting to dry. The final product is solid (I cant dent it), but there is a thin layer of loose sand on top of the solid mortar. Is this a problem? And should I consider re-doing it, or cleaning off the loose stuff and moving on to the pan liner installation?

Thanks again,

Dennis
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Unread 10-28-2020, 07:31 PM   #17
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What was the mortar, Dennis?

For the pre-slope the surface isn't gonna be as important as your final mud bed.
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Unread 10-28-2020, 07:51 PM   #18
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The mortar's called Speedslope. 90% of the mortar surface has a thin layer of loose sand on top(minimal), but I just noticed a few pockets that are about 3/8-1/2 inch deep or so. If i remove all the loose stuff I'll have these pockets under my liner. Can I remove the loose material and fill it in with more Speedslope?
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Unread 10-29-2020, 07:00 PM   #19
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After the mud sets, I would vacuum the sand up and fill the divots with thinset. Go ahead and skim coat the whole floor with a layer of thinset. In case the vacuum sucks up big chunks of mud, pull it all up and remud it.
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Unread 10-30-2020, 11:19 PM   #20
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Thanks Davy. I've now got the preslope figured, pan liner installed.

Do I float the curb before I float the second mortar bed, or after, does it make a difference?
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Unread 10-31-2020, 12:25 AM   #21
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It's better to at least place the lath around the curb prior to the mudbed to help anchor the interior in place. Over bend it so there's some tension on it to hug the liner. Nails or staples low on the outside to hold that side in place. You use a different mortar on the curb since it needs to be stronger and thinner than the deck mud on the horizontal surfaces of the pan.
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Unread 11-01-2020, 09:08 PM   #22
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Yes, use fat mud on the curb. I like mudding the curb first. Check out the "shower construction info" thread in the "liberry".
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Unread 11-01-2020, 10:02 PM   #23
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It looks like you need one more wall stud in that back corner, Dennis.

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Unread 11-02-2020, 07:32 AM   #24
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I agree, I'd also add one or two inline with the curb in case you mount a shower door. If needed, you can tuck one of them back behind the edge of the sheetrock to support it.
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Unread 11-02-2020, 10:01 AM   #25
dreade
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I figured I'd float the pre-slope in my downstairs shower while I waited for the upstairs to pass a 48h flood test.

The downstairs pre-slope installation went a lot better, and the finished product is smooth, compact & not sandy, like the upstairs.

Now I'm thinking I could rip out that upstairs pan I had trouble with and do a better job. Will I be able reuse the the pan liner if I unbolt it from the drain to re-float the preslope?
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Unread 11-02-2020, 01:04 PM   #26
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You should be able to. Just make sure and clean up any silicone between the flange and liner.
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Unread 11-02-2020, 08:31 PM   #27
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Mineral spirits on a rag will slowly clean away silicone residue.

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Unread 11-06-2020, 08:35 PM   #28
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Guys, thanks for the advice. I'll definitely want to add a stud at the curb to support the shower door - thanks for the heads up. Whats the reason for adding an additional stud in the back corner?

Also, do I need a stud at the drywall/kerdi board transition?

Thanks,

Dennis
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Unread 11-07-2020, 12:40 AM   #29
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You need a stud in the corner so that your substrate remains stiff, rather than bendy.

For the transition:either a stud or possibly a rip of 4” wide, 3/4” plywood screwed to both sides.

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Unread 11-09-2020, 05:20 PM   #30
dreade
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Well, I started over and fixed some things I wasn't happy with - added some studs, re-floated the preslope, installed the liner better than did the first time.

My understanding of the next step (and please, correct me if I'm wrong) is that I should install my wall board a little above the pan liner, then float the second mortar bed, locking the base of the walls within the mortar, since no screws can penetrate the liner. That said, should I waterproof the corners, where the kerdiboard meets at the pan liner before I float the second mortar bed? Or can I waterproof with the kerdiband to the top of the second mortar bed after it has been floated?
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