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Unread 10-12-2020, 12:18 PM   #211
jb9
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Hello,

Is there any order of operations for applying the silicone on the change of planes? Is it better to do the floor to wall bead first or the wall to wall beads first?

Any pros out there have a recommendation?

Thanks.
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Unread 10-12-2020, 06:17 PM   #212
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I would do the wall to wall joints first but it doesn't really matter.
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Unread 10-13-2020, 06:29 AM   #213
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What kinda does matter is that you do it all in the same session.

Wet silicone doesn't really adhere to dry silicone. So, for instance, if you caulk all around the shower floor to wall joint and let it cure, and then go back to do the vertical corners, the bottom of the vertical bead meets the floor bead won't have a good seal.

So plan for it. If you are going to tape off all the corners to help control your application tape all of it first. Have all your tools and supplies ready to go.
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Unread 10-13-2020, 12:05 PM   #214
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Thanks Davy and Dan. I have a couple more tiles to set before I silicone... I just ordered some 12x12 slate for the threshold too. I'll have 2 grout lines on the threshold... and I'll position them right where my foot would land as I walk in. The COF of the cleft face should add some friction as well.

I'm just cleaning up some of the grout haze now. I am happy with the tile I chose but it does have texture and some depressions in it. Instead of doing extra spongings and potentially adding more water to the joints, I guess I obligated myself to a little more cleanup. The Prism is great Davy... thanks. The color is pretty consistent. I do think the depressions in the tile help give the brick a more natural rustic look once the grout is applied which also keeps the lines from looking too sharp (which helps as well).

A little fine grit or scotchbrite seems to get off the heavier haze.

I wish I was faster at this but it is what it is. Seeking a result. Again, I really appreciate your real-world experience-based recommendations.
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Unread 10-23-2020, 12:08 PM   #215
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I got the threshold pieces of slate slab. A couple questions... It's getting colder here and I need to make a few wet saw cuts. Is it best to keep the slate warm before I take it outside to cut? Not like "in the oven warm" but room temperature and then take them outside to cut in air that is ~45 degrees.
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Unread 10-23-2020, 12:48 PM   #216
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It’s what, maybe 70 inside, 45 outside? 25 degrees isn’t much of a thermal shock. The water in your wet saw tray is probably 40 degrees anyway. Go out and give it a cut. If you’re worried, warm up the slate and the water to indoor temperature. No suggestion on how to warm up outdoors....wait for a milder day?
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Unread 10-27-2020, 01:22 PM   #217
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I have a few questions on how I am going to handle the transition. I am getting ready to cut the slate. I annotated a drawing to show my "dam" and transition to the dry area which will have vinyl plank flooring.

Should I run the slate a little long (maybe 1/16") or keep it fully supported on the kerdi?

Good news is I am definitely able to shape the slate with a bit of sandpaper. I may not need to create a dramatic bullnose but I can definitely soften the edges of this material fairly easily. I did a test with a little bit of 100 grit sandpaper (thanks for the tip Davy).

Does this transition to the vinyl plank seem reasonable? Are there going to be trim pieces available to clean this up? Looks like the step up will be around 1/2" to 5/8". I am assuming trim pieces are fairly ubiquitous for something like this. I gotta leave a gap for the vinyl plank as well as for the slate but they are going to lie in different planes.

Does this sound reasonable?
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Unread 10-27-2020, 07:27 PM   #218
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Maybe I’m just being picky here, but I’m thinking that 1/2 to 5/8“ of transition over a short distance of 1/2” or less is going to be a trip hazard or a toe stub risk. There’s probably some safety standards on transition heights over distances, but I haven’t looked. Hopefully others will chime in on what’s worked and not. All I’m recommending is don’t commit to setting the slate until you’ve considered the practicality of the edge as well as the aesthetics.
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Unread 10-27-2020, 09:21 PM   #219
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John, in the tile industry (A108.01-3.2.3, Changes in level) for a change in floor elevation of 1/4" or less you need do nothing. A change of 1/4" to 1/2" requires only that you bevel the edge with a slope no greater than 1:2. For a change of up to 3" a slope as steep as 1:8 is permitted, but 1:12 is recommended.

Yes, some folks, such as Jeff, may still trip over such transitions. My own dear father usta say when I was a little kid that I could trip over the flowers in the linoleum. Today I could easily trip over a blunt 1/2" change in floor elevation. Making some sort of obvious visual demarcation of such transitions is always a good idea.

In my own remodeling I have done many such elevation changes up to one full inch with a slope of only about 1:5 or 6 when necessary with never a complaint from the users. And actually I had no difficulty at all with those transitions.

My opinion; worth price charged.
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Unread 11-04-2020, 01:25 PM   #220
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I have a question about grouting along a Schluter profile. The profiles appear to have an integrated 1/16" spacer. How does one go about grouting this joint without getting grout all over the metal and damaging/scratching it?

Are there any tips on how to get a good result?
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Unread 11-06-2020, 08:42 AM   #221
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There's no easy way, John. You could try to use some blue painters tape on the edge to protect it but that's likely to come off as soon as the moisture in the grout hits it.

FWIW, I didn't both protecting my Schluter trim when I grouted and it turned out fine, no damage, using Spectralock epoxy grout. YMMV.
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