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Unread 01-31-2021, 08:55 PM   #31
redlude97
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Thanks guys for the fast reply. I feel a lot better although I spent 1.5 hours cleaning after install.
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Unread 01-31-2021, 10:52 PM   #32
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Glad you got it clean. I know I'm late to the party, but an old, wimpy, worn-out sponge gets into little spaces better than a fresh, firm sponge.
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Unread 02-01-2021, 01:01 AM   #33
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What size trowel did you use for that?
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Unread 02-01-2021, 07:54 AM   #34
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Hai, we've merged your threads so that all the Q's&A's for your project are in one place, really helps all contributors to see the big picture.
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Unread 02-01-2021, 08:31 AM   #35
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Kman
What size trowel did you use for that?
I used a 1/4" square trowel, but the first piece in the upper left didnt have complete coverage when I pulled a corner so I redid it but there ended up being a little excess thinset that squeezed out. I used a grout float and roller to embed the sheets. Do you think I pressed to hard?
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Unread 02-16-2021, 01:56 PM   #36
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Got the ditra heat cable installed over the long weekend and fixed a couple bumps in the floor by cutting out sections to scrape out high thinset spots.
Before going any further is there anything obviously wrong with my layout? I avoided under the floating vanity and where a cabinet will go, but after rechecking the install manual it said to avoid cable under a mat. Is a thin mat on top of the tile okay in front of the vanity and by the tub?

Finally, about to install the kerdiband using schluter all-set, do you mix to the thinner consistency used for setting the ditra mat or to the thicker consistency used for setting tile? If I prefill the mat what thickness should I use? wanting to mix up a full bag, install the kerdiband, and prefill the mat with the extra as others have done in some posts.
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Unread 02-16-2021, 03:32 PM   #37
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I have a bath mat in front of the shower and the Kerdi-heat wires are under it. It’s been on in the early AM and later PM hours daily for about 3 years. 12” or so square tile, 1/4”-ish grout joints. It is warmer under the mat than above, but haven’t seen any issues with the floor at all. Of course, you want the floor sensors to NOT be under the mat.
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Unread 02-16-2021, 03:51 PM   #38
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Hai,

It appears you tried to use up the length of the sensor wires with the squiggly routing, which is probably ok, but you could have simply shortened the wires.

Schluter clearly recommends against placing any matts on the floor because they will hold in heat, which may over-heat that spot. Of particular concern, in my mind, is a matt with a non-slip backing. However, I have left a plain bath matt (no backing) over a section of my floor on occasion with no obvious ill effects.

However, you do have a sensor in front of the vanity that looks like it would be covered by a mat. Any mat will hold in some heat and that sensor will think the floor is warmer than it really is and turn the heat off. IWO, with that sensor under the mat that small section will reach the set temp and the rest of the floor won't ever.

If you want to use any mat with your current layout, for piece of mind you might consider picking up an IR thermometer so you can take readings. Set the temp at a relatively low setting, say, 75, and put the mats in place. Let the floor come up to temp and shoot an uncovered section with the IR to verify, then remove a mat and shoot that spot. Note the diff.

Unless you are trying to make the whole floor water proof the banding on the heat mat is unnecessary.

I would definitely pre-fill, and did, but it's safe to say my approach is due to a lack of skill and experience. But, after seeing how much the mortar shrank after pre-filling, I'm pleased I did. Mix your mortar to it's regular consistency.

I take it you plan to remove the vanity before tiling?
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Unread 02-16-2021, 04:18 PM   #39
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Okay so it looks like I should move the sensor in front of the vanity to another spot. I wiggled the sensor wire because it seemed to keep it in place better and I saw pictures of other people's installs that did the same. When I routed them straight along one side of the posts that wouldn't lay flat and under the columns.

I'm only going to kerdiband near the tub surround and those corners to prevent water damage to the drywall and subfloor from splashing outside of the tub which is common since I didn't extend the wall near the end of the tub far enough with tile so going to kerdiband up the walls and use PVC baseboard.


The vanity is floating so I can get underneath to tile. I had to install it first due to logistics but it shouldn't be a huge problem
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Unread 03-01-2021, 10:37 AM   #40
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Hi all. Back again. Seems like every step makes sense on paper or in my head but execution is not quite there on my end. Install kerdi band and prefilled the waffles with grout float but really struggled with getting a consistent layer


Some of the spots are actual dips as the install of the ditra was a hair lumpy. Going to check flatness again with a 6ft level but I'm not exactly sure what to do if there are any spots outside of the flatness spec for my tile install. I'd be afraid to sand it. Should I identify any low spots and do another round of thinset feathering out any voids and/or use kerdi and as a shimming layer?

Or should I be okay installing tile over. I made sure the subfloor was dead flat before installing the ditra, got some high spots after it dried I cut out and reinstalled after checking flatness prior to installing the wire, and now I'm here with potentially some minor lumps
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Unread 03-01-2021, 10:49 AM   #41
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Break out the 6 foot level, Hai, and check all around for flatness, but I would expect the installed banding is going to make that assessment difficult because you now have humps where the bands are.

What size tile is going on the floor?
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Unread 03-01-2021, 11:38 AM   #42
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Its a 12x24, so I know I need to meet the 1/8" in 10 ft and 1/16" in 2 ft requirement
I've been leveling to 1/8" in 6ft so technically I had a higher standard flatness to start but it was a little bit harder to check with just the ditra installed prior to filling.

I even dry layed out the tile to make sure it was pretty flat and didn't have much unevenness prior to thinset
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Unread 03-01-2021, 11:52 AM   #43
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A deviation from intended plane of 1/8th" in 6 feet would not be a tighter standard than 1/8th" in 10 feet, Hai.
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Unread 03-01-2021, 12:00 PM   #44
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Maybe I'm thinking about it wrong, but if I don't have any 1/8" deviations within 6ft, and then I overlap the 6ft and check again to check and removed any deviations within 1/8" to cover the 10ft, that I would also meet the 1/8" deviation in 10ft requirement? Unless there were high spots only on the ends I suppose. a 10 ft level wouldn't fit in the space to check
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Unread 03-09-2021, 02:30 PM   #45
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Was able to start the tiling after enusring the floor was flat. The tub the tile transition is 1/8" vs 1/16" for the grout lines.

Should I use color matched or white silicone in this case? Also should I put backer rod down in the gap first to keep the caulk thinner and more hourglass shaped?
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