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Old 02-04-2019, 10:28 PM   #31
Phidelt414
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I figured the grinder would be a bad idea.

The wife is thinking a light brown/tan grout... She is worried the white will be harder to keep looking clean... We'll see what I can get her to settle on.

If I were to take it out, how hard will it be to get it off the Kerdi without damaging the waterproof integrity? I imagine I could get the tile off but don't know how I'd go about getting the All-set off in order to get a smooth surface to match the tile height surrounding it?
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Old 02-05-2019, 07:39 PM   #32
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We can't tell you that until you can show us some pictures, but by that time you'll know.
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Old 02-11-2019, 09:47 AM   #33
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Grout

Good morning.

So the wife now wants white grout to go with the white tiles, so i'm going to leave that tile there and hope it will be less noticable considering its not going to have a huge contrast.

Next question...i used 1/8 spacers...however there are spots where i have to "tweak" grout lines to compinsate for fit or irregularitys....some (like the out of allign one might have less than an 1/8th gap, a couple places might have a little larger than an 1/8th.)

I have been getting conflicting instructions on type of grout....1/8 or under, use unsanded...1/8 or larger use sanded...

what do i do? These are shower walls only, the shower base is acrylic.

Thanks,

Mike
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Old 02-12-2019, 09:34 PM   #34
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Found the grout... New question.

The tile is porcelain. My dumbass chipped a tile edge while cleaning some mortar out of the grout line. Do they make touch up for these type of tiles?

Also, being it's porcelain do I have to worry about water penetration? I have the Kerdi behind it... I'm hoping it's only an aesthetic issue...

Thanks,
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Old 02-13-2019, 07:18 AM   #35
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No idea if any company makes a touch up, I've never heard of one. You might find a product to work and last, but it's unlikely the color will match. I chipped one of my recently laid porcelain floor tiles, had to remove/replace it.

Porcelain ceramic is denser than regular ceramic tile, so water absorption rate will be less/slower, and little water is going to get through the glaze on the surface. Where you will have some absorption is along the edges. If you are using a cement based grout it, too, will absorb water - and at a much faster rate than the porcelain.

You could mitigate water penetration into the wall by using an epoxy, or other water proof, grout. It'll stop water from entering through the grout lines but the tile is still going to absorb some through the edges that the grout doesn't cover.
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Old 02-19-2019, 08:58 AM   #36
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Good morning!

Shower done, and looks good. I appreciate all the advice and am back for some more!

Getting ready to tackle the floor. 16 oc, 3/4" tongue and groove. Now i'm trying to figure out the height.

I am trying to decide if I want to use Ditra or DitraXL. Outside the bathroom door is carpet, on a 7/16 (8lb) pad..(not sure what the type of carpet is, but I know its not berber). (pictures shown have a piece of 3/4" board next to it...not sure why it keeps flipping the one picture....)

Was originally thinking regular ditra, with 12x24 6mm Porcelain tile...i was going to use a 1/2" square notch trowel to insure proper coverage.....

Should I be thinking Ditra XL instead? Is it better to be level with the carpet, and if not level be a little bit lower or higher?

Any advice that can be collected would be appreciated....
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Old 02-19-2019, 10:52 AM   #37
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Mike,

If you make your tile the same height as the carpet you will end up with a hard, and uncomfortable sharp edge. When someone steps on that transition the carpet will compress, the tile won't.

Typically there's a narrow marble threshold that runs the width of the door way, and those thresholds have a bevel on both sides to ease that sharp edge. The carpet butts against one side, the tile (with a gap) to the other. If the carpet is too low there are "ramps" that can be installed under the carpet and pad to raise the height of the carpet at the threshold.
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Old 02-19-2019, 11:10 AM   #38
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I used a Shluter Jolley edge protector on another bathroom (different height underlayments) and it worked great..Just trying to figure out the overall height to make it looks like a smooth uniform transition, since i've never used Ditra.
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Old 02-20-2019, 03:17 PM   #39
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Subfloor Splinter

I found one spot on my sub floor (3/4 t&g) an inch or two from a side wall, that apparently splintered when pulling up the old substrate. The adhesive that was holding the old luan, apparently pulled bits of the subfloor up with it when pryed off. There is a 1/16 to 1/8th divot that is about 3 " long and 2" wide.. The floor its self is in great shape...can i skim coat or fill that area with something to make sure its solid and will be solidly supporting the Ditra? over that area?

Appreciate the help, hope to lay the Ditra tomorrow or Friday.
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Old 02-20-2019, 04:45 PM   #40
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You could pre-fill that with something like water putty if you want, Mike, but I'd be inclined to let it fill itself with thinset mortar when I installed my Ditra.

My opinion; worth price charged.
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Old 02-20-2019, 05:07 PM   #41
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CX, hello Sir!

I have some of this TEC Skill Set Indoor Floor "Deep" Patch and Leveler from when i feathered out a low spot under a floating floor about a year ago.

Can you think of any reason that wouldn't work? I don't know its possible, but perhaps because its water activated it will soften when trowel the All-set over it to bond the Ditra? Or am I over thinking this? Just don't want to to be kickin myself in the rear later...
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Old 02-20-2019, 07:37 PM   #42
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Hell, I dunno! Ain't never heard of it.

Says it's "cement-based," so I'm guessing they mean Portland cement, but that is just a guess. If that's correct, I'd not be afraid to use it in your application.

My opinion; worth price charged.
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Old 02-20-2019, 07:57 PM   #43
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A cement based product thatís been sitting opened for a year? Iíd say to use the thinset to fill that divot as you set the ditra.
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Old 02-20-2019, 08:41 PM   #44
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Good catch, Lou. I missed that year-old part.

One of the reasons I like this website is because anytime someone misses a cue or posts incorrect information, there's always someone else likely to correct it.
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Old 02-20-2019, 08:48 PM   #45
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Hmm. Ok then. I guess you guys don't envision any issues with making sure the ditra is fully embedded after floating over that area. I guess it shouldn't displace to much of it since I'm not trying to evacuate the thinset from under the ditra; rather just embed it.

Appreciate all the advice... Especially when getting a consensus from more than one source!

Thanks.
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