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Old 02-10-2019, 08:25 AM   #31
KYCats31
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So I decided to use ditra instead of cement board on the floor since it is significantly thinner. I still have a couple bags of Ultraflex LFT that I was going to use over the cement board. Should I go ahead and use it to adhere the ditra to the plywood or take it back and get something like ultraflex 2 or something. I was just going to use Kerabond T between the ditra and porcelain since I already am using it in the kerdi shower. Mapei products are readily available so one of their modified thinsets under the ditra would be a good suggestion if anyone has one other than the LFT I mentioned earlier. Thanks.
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Old 02-10-2019, 09:19 AM   #32
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Those LHT mortars frequently have larger aggregate in them to aid in use in thicker sections than regular thinset mortars, AC, and I wouldn't want that in a mortar I was using to install Ditra. I've not used the Ultraflex LFT and can't really say whether it fits into that category, but I'd be inclined to use something else, like your suggested Ultraflex 2. Save a few bucks, too.

My opinion; worth price charged.
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Old 02-10-2019, 11:50 AM   #33
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Great thank you!!! I will definitely switch over to UF2.

Any tricks to ditra I may need to know about? Watched at the videos and stuff. Looks fairly straightforward but want to make sure as I’ve never used it.
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Old 02-13-2019, 02:26 PM   #34
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about your frameless door unit install - what are you making your curb top out of? If you use a piece of granite or quartz, at 1 1/4 thick you can drill it for screws and not penetrate to your water proofing.

Custom frameless doors are about twice the cost as the standard sized ones (for 3/8 frameless glass) he shows. Installing the non-custom units does require very good precision in tiling to meet up though - not much adjustment.

Also, a lot of guys here still like wood curbs, but IMO why build with a big unstable core in there - buy a foam curb that is completely stable and waterproof- no drywall or wood in there, just cut to size and kerdi.
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Old 02-20-2019, 07:45 PM   #35
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I ended up with the kerdi curb, super easy thank you.

I know this has been beat to death but I have a question about the flood test. I started mine about 4 hours ago and in the picture attached, you will see wicking up the wall all the way around but just looking at the center of the back wall...my main floor piece of kerdi was large enough to cover 5” up the back, across the bottom, and across the curb, no seams(besides on each side of course). How in the world does the kerdi appear “wet” in the middle of that main wall? Is that just from pouring the water in and the sloshing of the water going up higher than the water line? I definitely did not create enough turbulence to get the water over that seam (5” high!!) and as I said, there’s no seam beneath the water in that area. BTW, the water is exactly where I measured when I poured, not drop but it’s only been 4 hours.

I went a little crazy with the kerdi fix on every little place I THOUGHT the edge/seam wasn’t perfect.
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Old 02-20-2019, 08:51 PM   #36
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Might be my eyes but I don’t see it wicking up as high as the 5” tall seam on the back wall.

Best I can tell, it wicked up about the height of the preformed inside corner, so about 2.5”??

That being said, the critical result is whether the water level drops. If there’s some residual thinset on the face of the Kerdi, I’d expect to see some wicking via capillary action. If water level doesn’t drop after 24 hours though, I’d feel fine to proceed.
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Old 02-20-2019, 09:04 PM   #37
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Oh so it’s actually wicking up the thinset instead of the kerdi. You can actually see that happening on the back wall of one of those pics. I should have cleaned all the thinset off the outside of the kerdi; didn’t realize I was supposed to do that until I read that a few minutes ago.

It appears there is tons of confusion on all of these boards as well about drop. Has there ever been a definite “allowable drop” released for the 24hr test?
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Old 02-20-2019, 09:14 PM   #38
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None that I've heard of. After the water has set for an hour or two, it's probably done all the wicking that it's going to do. Mark it, then watch it for 24 hours.

What you would be seeing is water coming through somewhere else, such as underneath the curb or a side wall. If the water level stays good, then water isn't running out.

Keep in mind that you're subjecting your shower to a certain amount of pressure that it'll never see under normal use. But it's the best way to find a leak if there is one.
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Old 02-20-2019, 09:21 PM   #39
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Can't tell for sure what you've got in there for water, AC, but I'd want it at least above those 2" folds up the side walls.

And I recommend you put some sort of straight sided vessel next to the shower with water in it to gauge the evaporation during the test.

My opinion; worth price charged.
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