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Old 01-13-2019, 02:25 AM   #16
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I think you'll be okay with that. I think they recommend a 1/4" trowel to bed the tray.
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Old 01-13-2019, 08:31 AM   #17
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In a rush last night at floor and decor I purchased Kerabond T instead of Kerabond. Some posts on here have recommended T for the kerdi membrane but I don’t see anything that says it’s un-modified like regular Kerabond. Is the T version un-modified and fine to use behind the kerdi membrane and to hang the 12x24 tiles on Kerdi and Sheetrock?
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Old 01-13-2019, 09:54 AM   #18
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The T stands for thixotropic, AC, but it's still an ISO C1 class mortar, meaning it is unmodified.

I would certainly not pay a dime more for it than for Kerabond in your application.

My opinion; worth price charged.
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Old 01-13-2019, 05:54 PM   #19
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To answer your p-trap question, your p-trap doesn't have to be in-line with the pipe it is attached to. You can turn it to fit your application.

I've attached a picture of my drain relocation for reference.

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Old 01-14-2019, 03:59 PM   #20
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Great thank you. I have everything ready to go, or at least planned except for grout. I have read a ton but am still unsure to use premixed, cement, epoxy, etc. All of my joints will be 1/8” to 3/16” and porcelain EXCEPT there is some honed travertine on the back of the niche and a large mosaic framed on the back of the shower. I have always just mixed cement based grouts on the small stuff I’ve done at the house with ceramic tile and never had issues. So my questions would be...

1. Do I need to seal the porcelain OR travertine before adding the grout?
2. Grout options? I don’t really care about brand. I have been using Mapei stuff since floor and decor is close. HD and Menards are also close though.
3. Should I seal the floor grout and/or tile afterwards? It will be a lighter ivory or slightly darker grout. I of course don’t want it to get dirty although this is the master bath and there shouldn’t be a ton of traffic.
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Old 01-15-2019, 04:28 AM   #21
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1. I'd recommend sealing a test piece, some sealers can alter the color of your natural Stone. Regardless, sealing natural stone is a good idea before grout.

2. I've had pretty good luck with mapei's flexcolor cq.

3. If you seal the stone before, you shouldn't need to seal afterwards. Start with a test piece to see if it discolors. Using a grout like flexcolor cq eliminates the need to seal the grout.

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Old 01-15-2019, 07:39 AM   #22
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I'll only add that there's no need, indeed no way, to seal the surface of the porcelain.
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Old 01-17-2019, 01:24 PM   #23
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So, it appears that the hole the contractor added when the house was build was significantly larger that what the kerdi drain requires. I made a quick drawing; please see attached. The question is will this work by adding a 1/2” piece of ACX, glued (titebond 3) and screwed to the existing 3/4” subfloor. As you can see in the attached there would be a slight unsupported section around the diameter. I have no idea why he tapered it like this but what is done is done. I could go ahead and add a sheet of 3/4ACX I was just trying to save height so my curb is not so tall. Thoughts?
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Old 01-17-2019, 01:34 PM   #24
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1/2 exterior grade plywood with a minimum face grade of C glued and screwed over the area should suffice. I had to do something similar in my Kerdi shower. Cut your new hole at 4.5"-5" diameter for a nice fit with the kerdi drain.

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Old 01-28-2019, 02:10 PM   #25
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So I have been reading a lot about mounting doors to the curb and have a question. The door I picked has a 6” piece of glass that is mounted to the wall, easy, no issues. But the door actually swings off the glass so the manufacturer wants screws in the curb. Any ideas around this since there has to be some stress on that door hinge area? No curb built yet so I can do whatever. I was planning on 2x4s, Sheetrock, and kerdi but this has thown me. I have looked for another “standard”, in stock type door but haven’t been able to find one.
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Old 01-28-2019, 02:10 PM   #26
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Old 01-28-2019, 08:33 PM   #27
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Have you purchased this glass unit already?

We take very measure to have the door hinges attached to the wall and NO penetrations in horizontal surfaces.
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Old 01-29-2019, 09:21 AM   #28
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I have not. I chose this one because I would only have to reach around 14” of glass to turn the shower on vs about 20”with a door off the wall. I can certainly do that type if I have to, just not my first choice.
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Old 01-29-2019, 06:43 PM   #29
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Can someone please confirm the minimum opening on a shower door as well? Everything i am seeing says 22” opening but there are TONS of manufacturers out there that are selling doors anywhere from 17”-21” openings. I would consider a frameless rolling door as well but I cannot find one with an opening over about 20” for my total width of 46.5”.
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Old 01-30-2019, 09:24 AM   #30
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Building codes may/will vary from place to place but code for my location says 22" is the minimum for a shower door. 22" seems pretty tight really, I'd not go less than 24.

You might need to consider a custom size to get what you want. And FWIW, as the owner of a house that had 2 framed sliding doors, I'd never install a framed door again.
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