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Old 11-04-2017, 10:04 AM   #1
Jackalay
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Large Master Bath Remodel - Help dealing with out of plane wonky subfloor

Experts - I have about 250 feet of floor work I am about to tackle. The tile is 12 X 24 X 3/8 rectified Emser. The flooring will transition from 3/4 hardwood to tile at the first doorway in the first picture below. I plan to use regular Ditra with 1/2 notch so I can get close to matching hardwood height. As you can see the area is pretty broken up with a laundry room, linen closet, walk-in closet, vanity area, then finally the bath area. The subfloor is decent and in plane within an 1/8 to 3/16 for most of the area. My problem starts about 4 foot from that exterior wall between the shower and bath. As you can see from the second picture the floor slopes up from plane to the exterior wall about 3/8 total. How would you accommodate this issue? Any way to do it and make the tile look decent without a drastic solution?
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Old 11-04-2017, 10:40 AM   #2
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Hi Josh, two things right off the bat. Your floor doesn't necessarily need to be level. Getting it as flat as you can is more important. Also, you don't want to use a half inch notch trowel to stick down the Ditra. Get the floor as flat as you can first, then worry about getting the tile flush with the hardwood. Even ramping the tile upward a little the last 3-4 feet to get it flush is okay to do. Many times when using Ditra, by the time you get the thinset under the Ditra along with 3/8 thick tiles, it is fairly close to being flush with 3/4 hardwood in the doorway. They also have Ditra XL also that is a little thicker than regular Ditra.
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Old 11-04-2017, 10:56 AM   #3
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Thanks Davy. I only mentioned Ditra so you guys would know what materials I planned on using. I am confident that Ditra and 3/8 tile installed with a 1/2 notch will get me to hardwood height. I am not concerned about level only the horizontal plane of the subfloor, and it is basically in plane right up to where that metal straight edge is laying, then it pitches gradually up to the exterior wall all total about 3/8 rise in 4 feet. If I had caught this issue before installing the shower framing and bedding the tub perhaps I would have been more agreeable to some of the more agressive methods of fixing a wonky subfloor. I just want to know if this can be made to look good with a staggered running bond large tile install without having to tear out the subfloor, and plane down joists?
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Old 11-04-2017, 01:09 PM   #4
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A patching compound like feather finish can fill low areas. Ditra xl is made to get you even with your 3/4" hardwood.
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Old 11-04-2017, 01:38 PM   #5
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I considered Ditra XL but the math just does not work. Ditra XL 5/16 + 3/16 thinset + 3/8 tile = 7/8. I would rather use the regular Ditra and shoot for a full 1/4 thinset. That should put me just under or right at 3/4.
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Old 11-04-2017, 03:04 PM   #6
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Josh, I'm gonna caution you that trying to cover that 3/8ths" change in plane in your subfloor with those two-foot tiles in a running bond pattern is likely to cause you some problems.

Trying to increase the overall height of your subfloor by using a larger notch trowel to hopefully get a thicker layer of thinset mortar under all those tiles is another thing you might be underestimating.

My opinion; worth price charged.
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Old 11-04-2017, 08:43 PM   #7
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Yep, what CX said. Schluter recommends an 11/64 notch trowel for bonding Ditra. That leaves just enough thinset to bond the Ditra well without having a lot of waves in the floor. If you use a larger notch, you'll have waves in the Ditra that will give you grief when installing your tiles. You don't want to try to flatten the floor with Ditra, do that before installing the Ditra.

Also, doesn't matter if you're installing Ditra or tiles, for example, just because you use a 1/4 inch notch doesn't mean the thinset will finish out 1/4 inch thick. The notches will mash down less than 1/4, probably closer to 1/8.
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Old 11-06-2017, 10:25 AM   #8
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All of the install information I provided was for reference on how I would be proceeding with the install on the flat portion of my floor. I understand that the thinset under the Ditra adds little to no height to the install and that one would never add additional thinset under or over the Ditra in attempt to "level" things out. I will be using 1/2" notch to install the tile in hopes to achieve an installed thinset thickness of 1/4". This should get me up to just under hardwood height - which is acceptable to me. To frame it another way - my aforementioned method of install will work great on the 220 square feet of floor that is flat. My problem is the 12 square feet that slopes up to the exterior wall. I agree that if I leave it as is I may have excessive lippage in that last 12 feet. I guess I can rip out that section of subfloor and plane down the joists - unless you guys have any other ideas?
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Old 11-09-2017, 08:40 AM   #9
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Looking at my first picture - where/how would you guys layout/start laying this floor tile? Given the choppiness and size of the layout do you feel there is any need for movement joints other than the standard space at the perimeter? Btw the 2 rooms on the right are 10X10.
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Old 08-22-2018, 05:47 AM   #10
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Layout Opinions Needed

Good morning all. I have two areas prepped for tile and would like your opinions on layout and starting point. The first room is a small half bath (one picture below). Should I center the layout and have an a equal width piece at the door and wall or do I put a full tile at the door leaving a 4" wide piece at the wall? The second room is a large multi-use master bath. It is very choppy and contains separate rooms for vanity, laundry, walk-in closet, tub-shower-toilet, and two linen closets. I have determined the layout but am unsure how to best complete the install. I dont see a way to get around stopping and starting multiple times since the location of my first row forces me to work into corners. The laundry room and walk in are on the right and are the same size. The tub, bath, toilet area is in the room where you see the octagon. There is a door separating this area from the rest. I am also installing a dilex expansion profile at this doorway. If you need more info let me know. Thanks.
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Old 08-22-2018, 08:52 AM   #11
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I like having full tiles at the doorway where it meets carpet or hardwood. I start with that layout, then do some measuring to see what cuts I'll have else where. Cross ways it can be centered up although with the floor being chopped up, it'll be hard to avoid small cuts everywhere.

If you're wanting full tiles at the doorway you're working out of, you'll need to start at the far end and back out. To do that you'll have to pop chalk lines both directions. Usually the lines are two tiles and two grout joints apart on the short direction of the tiles. Pop a line on 1 tile and 1 joint on the long direction. Depending on the tile size, that should put your lines around 24 inches apart each direction. If you give us the exact size of your tiles we can help you come up with a module size. Also, it's very important that your lines are square.

Chalk lines don't like to stay down on Ditra so some installers use hairspray or cheap clear acrylic spray over the lines to help. Black chalk works well on Ditra.
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Old 08-22-2018, 09:25 AM   #12
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Hi Jack!

I think you should center the tiles. The eye will capt the center first. Beautifull choice by the way!
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Old 02-19-2019, 12:58 PM   #13
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Large Master Bath Remodel Questions

So I have overcome my previously mentioned subfloor issues and have laid all my floor tile. I am ready to replace my baseboard and wanted to gauge the professionals current opinions on the technical aspects of baseboard installation over tile. I have searched and found some information on the forums but wanted to get some fresh perspective. I am leaning towards leaving a small gap between the baseboard and tile field, 1/16 maybe, then caulking with a paintable caulk. Is this a good approach? Should i leave more of a gap?
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Old 02-19-2019, 01:09 PM   #14
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My preference is to set the baseboards directly onto the tile surface and do nothing at all with that interface.

My opinion; worth price charged.
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Old 02-19-2019, 01:31 PM   #15
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I'd also set it on the tile.

Depending on how flat the floor is, how flat the tiles ended up along the wall, and how wide the baseboard is you may need to scribe some of your baseboard to get it to fit tightly against the floor.
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