Brian's Master bath remodel

[Bdobz]

Hi guy, received so much help when I did my daughters bathroom in 2020, I am back to make a go at my bathroom. I must be crazy as after I finished her bathroom I said I would never do another bathroom haha.

Anyways, in the planning phase. The general layout plan is 12x24 white subway tiles mounted vertically with roughly 1/3 offset.

For the plumbing wall, I am thinking of doing a "rainfall" accent strip in matching pebbles as per the floor and niche background.

With the plumbing wall being around 32" , I am only left with two field tile columns and the accent strip.

Is this weird looking with the two field tile columns being the same layout since the offset column is replaced with the accent?

Thanks guys!
Brian

[cx]

Welcome, Brian.

Weird looking to whom? What does Mrs. Brian think about it?

[Bdobz]

God point, we are planning on discussing design this evening over a few drinky poos. Looking for opinions from folks that have had their nose in a lot of bathroom tile jobs

[pls]

Take this with a grain of salt, I am not a design expert but a pebble floor, strip and niche might be too much pebble.

[cx]

If your stones are not really, really flat on top, you might have a good bit of difficulty sealing your control valve escutcheon with that layout, also.

My opinion; worth price charged.

[Bdobz]

Good point Phil, something to consider.
Maybe my go to glass mosaic in more earthy tones would work too.
I do love the look of the vertical tiles and accent strip.

CX-I'm planning on a cut stone, but that thought did cross my mind.

In my minimal experience with tile, I have found planning and prepping the absolute most important aspect of the whole thing, well and the whole water proofing thing

[cx]

Yes, planning and preparation are important, but "the whole waterproofing thing" is essential.

A beautifully finished shower without proper waterproofing won't be pretty for long, while a moderately ugly shower with proper waterproofing can be a very functional eyesore for many decades.

[Bdobz]

Ok, the enclosure is gutted. As I hoped, the walls were framed for a standard 60" tug enclosure so I was able to remove a side wall and get an extra 12" of width. A bench will fill that area so my. The builders did a quality job on the insulation back there(or lack thereof)
As suspected and (didn't hope) the walls are wonky.

On my last project I spent so much time with little furring strips trying to flatten the walls. It was maddening, and after the board was up I realized that I didn't do that great of a job. Made the tiling so much more difficult and time consuming. This time I am sistering the studs with 2X3's to flatten the walls and it is going much much better.

Is there something I can do to upload images not sideways?

Thanks,
Brian

[cx]

The sideways photo problem appears to be associated only with posting from a cell phone, which I have never done, thus I can be of no help there and no one else on here appears to have ever come up with a solution other than suggesting you turn your phone horizontal when taking the photos. I just use a camera and post from storage on my computer.

I think your builder should be applauded for a very creative insulation installation.

My opinion; worth price charged.

[Bdobz]

Well my subfloor has an unsupported seam running between my joists(parallel).
Does not seem to be togue and groove
Joists seem to be 12" on center which is good, but that seam leaves a deflection under foot. I also need to address the drain opening from the old tug is larger than the 6" to no larger than 7" hole my pan manufacturer recommends.

My pan will be set in a one inch bed of mortar.

Pictures below show floor, and tools in one picture represent the joists.

My thought was to cut out a strip running the length of the joists and replace the approx. 6' x 11" section.

My buddy says its too hard to perfectly cut the subfloor on half of joist and he recommends I just lay an additional sheet of plywood or hardi over the floor and the mortar will spread the load.

What are some of your ideas/recs?

[cx]

Not gonna be any T&G on the ends of that plywood, Brian. Poor situation. What is the thickness of the plywood? Any access from below?

I'm in agreement with your buddy. You'll want the second layer of plywood whether you repair the existing floor or not. And you'll want it oriented perpendicular to the joists.

This is to be a pre-fabricated, non-tile, receptor that you plan to install?

My opinion; worth price charged.

[Bdobz]

Hi CX,

Prefabbed tileable pan and bench by Tile Redi.
It's either 5/8 or 3/4

[Bdobz]

Curious as to what is industry acceptable lippage on 12x2r porcelain tile.
Laid out on my work bench with approx 1/3 offset I am seeing about 1/16th, maybe a hair more.
Is this normal for tile of this size, or should I look for other tile?

Thanks,
Brian

[cx]

Originally Posted by Brian

...on 12x2r porcelain tile.

Sometimes I'm a good guesser, but..........

But for a pressed floor or porcelain tile of whatever size, with a grout joint of less than 1/4-inch, the allowable lippage is 1/32nd of an inch in addition to the inherent warpage of tile manufactured in accordance with ANSI A137.1.

Not always a simple thing to measure, but that's the industry standard requirement.

My opinion; worth price charged.

[Bdobz]

Thanks for that, but I meant is the warpage of the tile from manufacturer abnormal for a tile of this size.