Shower Project

[eagle4x]

Because there's not enough access with 6" diameter hole in backer/tile and limited space in the access door to replace the valve if ever needed, I asked a friend who is a licensed plumber his suggestions. He said to install a remodeling/repair plate.

I went to a local plumbing supply store and found a Moen brand and put my valve cover on top of it. With dimensions of 13.5" by 9", it would give enough access to replace the valve.

I'll have to find one that matches the finish and buy longer screws for it.

After reading many posts in this forum with people asking how to replace the valve because no access, I'm just curious why not installing a remodeling/repair plate not more of a general practice by tile installers when tile first installed?

[Snets]

If you install a high quality shower valve, from a reputable company, you should never have issues. In other words, there should be no issues with the brass housing in your walls, assuming it was installed correctly.

That said, yes, you can buy and install a reputable company's LOW end shower valve and have issues later - just Google "Moen shower cartridge stuck"

Personally, I would never install a non-name brand or a low-end name brand shower or shower/tub valve, it's just not worth it.

If you stick with the high-end valves, that require separate trim pieces, those trim pieces will likely be upgradable in the future, as opposed to a valve that comes with a trim kit, I have found.

[ss3964spd]

The giant trim plates serve a purpose for repairing/replacing an old shower valve, and that's to avoid replacing tile, thereby reducing cost.

The aesthetics is a matter of opinion.

[eagle4x]

Dan,
So why not install the repair plate on new installation instead of going though the headache of replacing a valve if it ever fails?

[ss3964spd]

No reason one couldn't do that, Mike, if the aesthetics are found to be acceptable. They aren't to me, but that's only my opinion.

I think the real answer is there's generally no need. The replaceable cartridges in "modern" shower valves are all serviceable from the front. Once the cartridge is removed the only thing left in the wall is the body - which has no parts in it and, thus, isn't prone to failure. Code compliant plumbing materials and connections to the valve body are durable and, if installed properly, will last decades.

The bath I'm currently remodeling had a "modern" cartridge type shower valve. 40 some years old. Didn't even need to remove the trim plate to replace the cartridge.

[eagle4x]

Hi Dan,
That's great info., however, how is the cartridge removed (mine is new)...it's not in the instructions?

Also, I found a youtube video with someone who has a glacier bay valve similar to mine. He removed the screw on each side of the valve and removed the plastic piece behind them to increase water velocity.

https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=gjaT4FtUXZo

However, the 2 screws on my valve I think serve a different purpose...they are to shut off the water incoming to the valve. I tried to remove the screws but would not come out like in the video. So, is there a way to increase water velocity of water coming from the valve, and if so, how?

[ss3964spd]

No idea how the cartridge is removed from your GB valve, Mike, GB must have instructions somewhere.

Yes, the screws are (water) stops, and probably cannot be removed by just using a screw driver in the slot. As shown in the video you linked to, you'd need a wrench or socket to remove those stop assemblies from the valve body, but the photo of your particular valve is too fuzzy to really tell.

[eagle4x]

Dan,
The screws will not come out, however, I put up tarp on the walls and tested the shower and flow rate was excellent.

[eagle4x]

If anyone has cartridge that is removed with valve similar to mine, attached is pic of tool I used to remove it. This tool would be better than using a pipe wrench.

[eagle4x]

I found a contractor who gave me a reasonable price for mixing the thinset, cutting, installing the tile if I provide the materials.

I have two unopened 25 lb. bags of Laticrete MultiMax Lite I purchased for the project, both purchased in June and September of last year. I put the bag from last June on the concrete porch and left it there for a few months but it did not get wet because it was under the 3' soffit.

Even though many in the forum say the shelf life of thinset is 1 year, the mfg. description says the thinset has a shelf life of 2 years, however, I'd like to know if any of you experienced any bad results from using thinset from 6 to 9 months old?

Also, the contractor said I should get another bag (shower is approx. 85 sq feet). The MultiMax Lite is expensive, so any recommendations for a decent thinset in the $20 - $25 price range for 24" x 48" porcelain tile to be installed on a shower wall?

[ss3964spd]

I have no experience using thinset mortar that's 6 to 8 months old.

Given that at least one of those unopened bags has been laying around for 7 to 8 months, and it was laying around outside for several of those months, and - unless you decoded the date that it was actually packaged (you don't know how old it was before you purchased it), throw that one away. If the second bag was stored in a climate controlled...well, humidity controlled, actually, area it will probably be ok but I'd still want to know when it was packaged.

But really, the cost of thinset mortar, weighed against the over all cost of the project, and cost of potential failure, I'd likely replace them both. Only you know what your risk tolerance is.

As for thinset mortar recommendations I'd probably opt for Versabond LFT, Flexbond LFT, Prolite, or Megalite, but that's mostly because that's what Home Depot carries and HD is 5 minutes from my home.

[eagle4x]

I'm installing Permabase WP (waterproof) board in my shower. The installation instructions do not say how deep to drive the screws. For Permabase cement board the video shows driving the screws flush with the board.

Would it be ok to drive the screws (I'm using Rock-On) just below the surface of the board (like with GoBoard) and apply sealant over them since it's not as solid as the cement board?

[eagle4x]

Here's pics of the Permabase WP installed with GoBoard sealant applied over the screw heads (Rock-On).

Remaining to be done before tiling is apply thinset/mesh tape between/on the seams and corners.

Look ok so far?

[ss3964spd]

Looks like a tidy install, Mike, but I'd have opted to stagger the panels to prevent 4 corners coming together. The Permabase manufacturer might even mention that in their install instructions.

[eagle4x]

The mfg instructions say: "Stagger vertical joints of the cement board", however, I overlooked doing that. It would be a lot of work to remove the boards and stagger them. What problems, if any, would it be to leave as is?