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04-05-2017, 11:37 AM
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#1
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Registered User
Join Date: Apr 2017
Location: California
Posts: 41
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Advise on how far should metal trim be from wall
Our contractor started laying tile yesterday in our bath remodel with schluter end trims. The trim and tile are "floating" away from the wall (cement board/drywall) behind by about 1/4" or more.
When we asked the contractor, he said he will the gap up (I am assuming with thin set or grout or caulk) and paint it same color as adjoining wall.
Does this sound correct ? Is this representative of proper work quality ? My impression was that these should be flush to the wall.
Including a photo below.
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Art
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04-05-2017, 02:05 PM
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#2
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Registered User
Join Date: Feb 2012
Location: Southern Illinois
Posts: 3,016
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It should be flush to the wall or have a slight (1/16" or so gap), if the surface wasn't prepped properly it can cause gaps like that. It can be caulked and made to look ok, but there's no reason it should be like that really.
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Jack of most trades, master of none...
Ryan McKee
McKee Construction & Custom Tile
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04-05-2017, 06:39 PM
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#3
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Moderator -- Mud Man
Join Date: Jan 2003
Location: Princeton,Tx.- Dallas area
Posts: 34,527
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It looks to be about a 1/8th gap. There could easily be that much thinset behind the tiles. As long as the gap is consistent then I would let him fix it as he plans.
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04-05-2017, 09:27 PM
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#4
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Registered User
Join Date: Feb 2012
Location: Chilliwack, B.C.
Posts: 1,405
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I pride myself on doing outstanding work, and sometimes my tile edge ends up even further off the wall. Typically this is caused by crooked walls. Obviously you can't just bend the tiles to follow every contour.
I prefer to have the tile edge so tight that you can't fit a razor blade behind it, but sometimes it just doesn't work out that way.
Your contractor is correct in that caulking and paint will result in a pleasing finish. Also your walls are quite rough and will require a coat of drywall mud. This will eat up much of that gap.
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Petr
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04-06-2017, 05:28 PM
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#5
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Registered User
Join Date: Apr 2017
Location: California
Posts: 41
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Thanks for the responses.
The wall is not plumb - I confirmed that with a level.
Is there a easy way to fix this the wall plumbness without rebuilding it grounds up ? Eg, plane down the studs before putting cement board on.
Due to non-plumb wall, the gap starts out at 1/8" near the bottom and grows to 1/2" near the ceiling.
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Art
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04-06-2017, 06:31 PM
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#6
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Registered User
Join Date: Feb 2012
Location: Southern Illinois
Posts: 3,016
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Any wall prep is done before the studs get covered. Planing studs, sistering, or shimming are the best ways to flatten and plumb existing walls.
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Jack of most trades, master of none...
Ryan McKee
McKee Construction & Custom Tile
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04-06-2017, 09:19 PM
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#7
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michal
Join Date: Nov 2008
Location: sunnyvale, ca
Posts: 2,008
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Good drywaller should be able to re float the wall. I've done it few times - 1 bag of hot mud, 2h of work and wall should be as straight as trim.
The wall needs to be fixed anyway.
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Michal
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04-07-2017, 07:16 PM
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#8
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Moderator -- Mud Man
Join Date: Jan 2003
Location: Princeton,Tx.- Dallas area
Posts: 34,527
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That's why I mud my walls, they are plumb and flat as a pancake. But, too late for that now. Float the drywall like Michal said.
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04-11-2017, 10:39 AM
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#9
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Registered User
Join Date: Apr 2017
Location: California
Posts: 41
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Necessary to tape seams?
Let me start by saying, I am just a homeowner getting a remodel done in 3 baths currently.
My contractor removed existing tile from bathrooms - 2 had wooden subfloor and 1 had concrete. He also cut out the drywall that had tile on the wall.
Then he screwed hardiebacker on the wooden subfloor and in place of the drywall he cut out (I am assuming he has waterproofing behind the hardiebacker where needed).
Now he is setting the tile on hardiebacker.
The only catch is that he didn't tape the seams. I have heard of horror stories online of tile cracking when seams aren't taped.
When I talked to him about it, he said it is not necessary but if I want it done, he will do it. So I told him to do it. But he still is continuing to tile without taping.
At this point, I am confused what to do - should I trust him that this is not necessary and that he knows what he is doing, or should I insist on taping and make him tear up the tile and reinstall it after taping.
If problems were to occur due to not taping, how many years before they manifest? I am worried that if I just put trust in his knowledge of his tradecraft, and latent problems develop, will they fall outside even the warranty.
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Art
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04-11-2017, 10:48 AM
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#10
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Registered User
Join Date: May 2016
Location: Turlock, CA
Posts: 692
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For the rooms with wooden subfloor, was the deflection calculated to ensure adequate support for tiling? (L360 for porcelain/ceramic L720 for natural stone)
Backerboard manufacturers require that thinset to be applied over the subflooring before putting down and screwing the backerboard down. Manufacturers also call for mesh tape to be applied with thinset at all board seams, this can be done before or during tiling but it is imperative that it is done.
Without mesh tape or thinset under the backerboard, it is not a matter of if it fails; it's a matter of when.
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04-11-2017, 10:59 AM
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#11
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Moderator
Join Date: Nov 2006
Location: NW Arkansas, Ozark Mountains
Posts: 12,459
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Art, let's keep all questions related to this project on this thread so that questions and answers aren't duplicated and the history is in one place. We can change the title to something more generic if you want, such as "Art's bathroom remodel.".
Without mesh tape and mortar on the seams you'll likely see cracking grout, and possibly even cracked tile on the floor. Your installer is short-changing you if he's not doing what's required by the manufacturer.
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Kevin
The top ten reasons to procrastinate:
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04-11-2017, 11:20 AM
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#12
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Registered User
Join Date: Feb 2012
Location: Southern Illinois
Posts: 3,016
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You say you assume he had waterproofing being the Hardi?
If there is no surface applied waterproofing then he would need to have a moisture barrier behind the hardi. Along with either a moisture barrier or surface applied waterproofing, it's necessary to use mesh tape and thinset on seams and corners.
The mere fact he claims that taping isn't necessary tells me not to trust anything he claims without providing industry backed information.
At this point it would be a good idea to find out....
What waterproofing or moisture barrier was used on the walls?
Was thinset used under the hardi on the floors?
Why wasn't mesh tape used if it is required by Hardi?
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Jack of most trades, master of none...
Ryan McKee
McKee Construction & Custom Tile
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04-11-2017, 01:15 PM
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#13
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Registered User
Join Date: Apr 2017
Location: California
Posts: 41
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No problem Kevin.
I thought posting new questions in title of new thread will make it easy for folks to know whether they have a response when they browse the forum.
But there is a certain way folks already use the forum, I can follow that method.
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Art
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04-11-2017, 01:33 PM
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#14
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Registered User
Join Date: Apr 2017
Location: California
Posts: 41
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Not sure if he is putting mesh tape with thinset. Will check when I drop by later today.
Regarding waterproofing, I saw he used some kind of black paper which I am assuming is waterproofing. Including some photos to see if it helps. They are of 3 different baths.
The mesh in the last photo, I think is for the curb cement, and not tile thinset.
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Art
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04-11-2017, 03:24 PM
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#15
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Pondering retirement daily
Senior Contributor
Join Date: Oct 2009
Location: Houston Texas
Posts: 28,236
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Art,
1- Are those drywall screws?
2- Is there thinset below the ceement boards on the floor?
3- Does the black (?) tarpaper lap inside of the floor / shower pan liner?
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Paul 1
For when DIY isn't such a good idea...
Houston TX area Kitchen & Bath Remodeling

http://CabotAndRowe.com
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