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Unread 04-05-2017, 11:37 AM   #1
TalkArtFunDay
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Advise on how far should metal trim be from wall

Our contractor started laying tile yesterday in our bath remodel with schluter end trims. The trim and tile are "floating" away from the wall (cement board/drywall) behind by about 1/4" or more.

When we asked the contractor, he said he will the gap up (I am assuming with thin set or grout or caulk) and paint it same color as adjoining wall.

Does this sound correct ? Is this representative of proper work quality ? My impression was that these should be flush to the wall.

Including a photo below.
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Unread 04-05-2017, 02:05 PM   #2
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It should be flush to the wall or have a slight (1/16" or so gap), if the surface wasn't prepped properly it can cause gaps like that. It can be caulked and made to look ok, but there's no reason it should be like that really.
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Unread 04-05-2017, 06:39 PM   #3
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It looks to be about a 1/8th gap. There could easily be that much thinset behind the tiles. As long as the gap is consistent then I would let him fix it as he plans.
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Unread 04-05-2017, 09:27 PM   #4
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I pride myself on doing outstanding work, and sometimes my tile edge ends up even further off the wall. Typically this is caused by crooked walls. Obviously you can't just bend the tiles to follow every contour.

I prefer to have the tile edge so tight that you can't fit a razor blade behind it, but sometimes it just doesn't work out that way.

Your contractor is correct in that caulking and paint will result in a pleasing finish. Also your walls are quite rough and will require a coat of drywall mud. This will eat up much of that gap.
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Unread 04-06-2017, 05:28 PM   #5
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Thanks for the responses.

The wall is not plumb - I confirmed that with a level.

Is there a easy way to fix this the wall plumbness without rebuilding it grounds up ? Eg, plane down the studs before putting cement board on.

Due to non-plumb wall, the gap starts out at 1/8" near the bottom and grows to 1/2" near the ceiling.
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Unread 04-06-2017, 06:31 PM   #6
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Any wall prep is done before the studs get covered. Planing studs, sistering, or shimming are the best ways to flatten and plumb existing walls.
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Unread 04-06-2017, 09:19 PM   #7
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Good drywaller should be able to re float the wall. I've done it few times - 1 bag of hot mud, 2h of work and wall should be as straight as trim.
The wall needs to be fixed anyway.
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Unread 04-07-2017, 07:16 PM   #8
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That's why I mud my walls, they are plumb and flat as a pancake. But, too late for that now. Float the drywall like Michal said.
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Unread 04-11-2017, 10:39 AM   #9
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Necessary to tape seams?

Let me start by saying, I am just a homeowner getting a remodel done in 3 baths currently.

My contractor removed existing tile from bathrooms - 2 had wooden subfloor and 1 had concrete. He also cut out the drywall that had tile on the wall.

Then he screwed hardiebacker on the wooden subfloor and in place of the drywall he cut out (I am assuming he has waterproofing behind the hardiebacker where needed).

Now he is setting the tile on hardiebacker.

The only catch is that he didn't tape the seams. I have heard of horror stories online of tile cracking when seams aren't taped.

When I talked to him about it, he said it is not necessary but if I want it done, he will do it. So I told him to do it. But he still is continuing to tile without taping.

At this point, I am confused what to do - should I trust him that this is not necessary and that he knows what he is doing, or should I insist on taping and make him tear up the tile and reinstall it after taping.

If problems were to occur due to not taping, how many years before they manifest? I am worried that if I just put trust in his knowledge of his tradecraft, and latent problems develop, will they fall outside even the warranty.
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Unread 04-11-2017, 10:48 AM   #10
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For the rooms with wooden subfloor, was the deflection calculated to ensure adequate support for tiling? (L360 for porcelain/ceramic L720 for natural stone)

Backerboard manufacturers require that thinset to be applied over the subflooring before putting down and screwing the backerboard down. Manufacturers also call for mesh tape to be applied with thinset at all board seams, this can be done before or during tiling but it is imperative that it is done.

Without mesh tape or thinset under the backerboard, it is not a matter of if it fails; it's a matter of when.
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Unread 04-11-2017, 10:59 AM   #11
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Art, let's keep all questions related to this project on this thread so that questions and answers aren't duplicated and the history is in one place. We can change the title to something more generic if you want, such as "Art's bathroom remodel.".

Without mesh tape and mortar on the seams you'll likely see cracking grout, and possibly even cracked tile on the floor. Your installer is short-changing you if he's not doing what's required by the manufacturer.
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Unread 04-11-2017, 11:20 AM   #12
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You say you assume he had waterproofing being the Hardi?
If there is no surface applied waterproofing then he would need to have a moisture barrier behind the hardi. Along with either a moisture barrier or surface applied waterproofing, it's necessary to use mesh tape and thinset on seams and corners.
The mere fact he claims that taping isn't necessary tells me not to trust anything he claims without providing industry backed information.

At this point it would be a good idea to find out....
What waterproofing or moisture barrier was used on the walls?
Was thinset used under the hardi on the floors?
Why wasn't mesh tape used if it is required by Hardi?
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Unread 04-11-2017, 01:15 PM   #13
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No problem Kevin.

I thought posting new questions in title of new thread will make it easy for folks to know whether they have a response when they browse the forum.

But there is a certain way folks already use the forum, I can follow that method.
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Unread 04-11-2017, 01:33 PM   #14
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Not sure if he is putting mesh tape with thinset. Will check when I drop by later today.

Regarding waterproofing, I saw he used some kind of black paper which I am assuming is waterproofing. Including some photos to see if it helps. They are of 3 different baths.

The mesh in the last photo, I think is for the curb cement, and not tile thinset.
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Unread 04-11-2017, 03:24 PM   #15
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Art,

1- Are those drywall screws?

2- Is there thinset below the ceement boards on the floor?

3- Does the black (?) tarpaper lap inside of the floor / shower pan liner?
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