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Unread 04-28-2008, 11:04 PM   #1
John22207
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Knee walls & shower bench

Quick questions:

1. I'm doing a shower remodel with a knee wall. How do I waterproof the top of the knee wall? I've thought about using a piece of shower pan liner, but can't really figure out how that would work when the lower portion of the knee wall will be CBU. Is the best approach to simply use CBU on the top of the wall and Redgard or something similar to waterproof?

2. I bought one of the Noble pre-made corner benches. Do I set this on top of the shower pan liner and set it at the time I'm doing the top mud layer of the shower floor, do it after and on top of the top layer, or something else?

3. The top mud layer of the floor should be at least how thick--1.25 inches?

Many thanks.
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Unread 04-29-2008, 03:57 AM   #2
scuttlebuttrp
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1. Whatever your vapor barrier/ waterproofing system is. If using poly or roofing felt; wrap this over the top of the wall. If using a surface applied; same thing.
2.Set the bench before the top layer. You can do the bench and instantly start doing the pan in one afternoon, but the bench should go first because the front edge of the bench will become part of the perimiter of your wall.
3.1 1/4" sounds good.
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Unread 05-07-2008, 08:29 AM   #3
John22207
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Shower Pan Leak Test

Tested my shower pan last night. After sitting for about 7-8 hours I lost somewhere between 1/32 to 1/16 inch in a pan that measures roughly 53 x 42 inches. Should I be bothered by that? I'd like to chalk that loss up to evaporation and/or some small seepage around the balloon I used to plug the drain. Seem reasonable?
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Unread 05-07-2008, 08:38 AM   #4
bbcamp
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That's too much for evaporation alone (it would be OK if the test ran 24 hours). If you think it's the plug, reset it and try again. You don't want to cover your leak with expensive tile.
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Unread 06-02-2008, 03:24 PM   #5
John22207
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Tiling the shower curb now. I didn't buy bullnose so will just use the square-edged tiles on the lateral and horizontal surfaces. My options are to have them meet at a 90 degree angle--like an upside down "L." The other option, which would give a somewhat rounded look like a bullnose, would be to have the bottom of the horizontal tiles (the surface that adheres to the top of the curb) stop at the inside surface of the vertical tiles (the surface that adheres to the curb)--in other words they would create a right-side-up "L" with the right side of the L being empty. I'd fill the void with grout. Question is whether the grout will hang in there or just get washed away in the shower over time.
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Unread 06-02-2008, 04:01 PM   #6
ceramictec
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John,

why not just tile the vertical faces of the curb with tile and put a Marble threshold on the top.

thats what he do here.
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Unread 06-26-2008, 11:26 PM   #7
John22207
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Closet Flange too Hing

Problem: Closet flange is about 3/4 inch too high.

Facts: The old floor was a thick cultured marble, about twice the thickness of the tile I am using. Drain pipe is 4" PVC in a concrete slab. Flange is PVC cemented to the inside of the drain pipe. The flange extends to approximately 2.5" down inside the drain pipe. Thus, if I were to cut the old flange off at floor level, I would have a two-layered drain pipe to deal with--i.e., 4" drain pipe with a portion of the old flange glued to the inside wall of the drain pipe. So I understand that there is not a new flange I can slip inside the portion of the old flange. Concrete slab is flush against the outside wall of the drain pipe, so I can't merely slip in outside-mount 4" flange to the drain pipe. The only things I can think of, short of breaking out the slab, doing some digging, cutting the drain pipe below the surface, and starting anew are the following:

(a) Cut the old flange and drain pipe at slab level and chip out the concrete around the pipe enough to fit an outside mount flange over the drain pipe; or

(b) Use a hack saw or sawzall to cut the flange from the inside (but not the drain pipe) and then try and chisel out the old flange, after which I would replace it with an inside mount.

Are either of those options? Any others?
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Unread 06-27-2008, 05:10 AM   #8
bbcamp
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Build up the floor so that the finsihed floor height is same as before. Use SLC or bond deck mud to the slab.
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Unread 07-15-2008, 06:48 AM   #9
John22207
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Too much floor area to build up. I was able to execute on option (b).

New question: On my shower floor, I'm putting in polished stone "pebbles" that are about 1-2 inches by 2-3 inches on a mesh backing. What size trowel should I be using? Any tips for grouting? I'm anticipating this is going to be kind of labor intensive to grout and still keep a lot of the stone surface showing.
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Unread 07-15-2008, 07:30 AM   #10
cx
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Welcome, John.

If you'll go to the Advanced Search, enter pebble, and ask for titles, you'll find lots and lots of reading about setting those stones. Might narrow the scope of your question a bit.

My opinion; worth price charged.
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