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Unread 04-13-2018, 06:08 PM   #46
Steve in Land O Lakes
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Thumbs down Goof Proof Shower seat (saw at Floor and Decor)

https://www.amazon.com/GOOF-PROOF-SH...ct_top?ie=UTF8Anyone familiar with the triangle shaped pre-made shower seat by Goof Proof?

Wife saw benches and seats in dozens of pictures and would like a seat or bench.

Our shower is not that large and the size of the Ready Made Triangle seat looked good. The thing has level bubbles in it and once installed its ready to tile right away.

Question is about the install. I have a three wall shower, the plumbing and electric on one wall (no room) that leaves two left. But one of those (left side wall) is an exterior block wall.
The other wall (the back wall of the shower) has studs available for mounting the seat. The exterior wall has furring strips on it and some 1x4's I put on at the bottom for blocking. If I only have the corner where these two walls meet what would you use to anchor the seat on the exterior wall side?
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Last edited by Steve in Land O Lakes; 04-13-2018 at 06:26 PM. Reason: to add a link
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Unread 04-13-2018, 06:28 PM   #47
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Tapcons?
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Unread 04-13-2018, 06:46 PM   #48
Steve in Land O Lakes
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tapcons

Go through the furring strip or blocking and then into the block with tapcons?

I have used these "hammer-in" concrete anchors. You drill in about 3" push the anchor into the hole and then hammer down the nail head that protrudes out from the center of the anchor, until its flush. This things seemed solid as heck...

If I'm looking for maximum strength of hold which would provide that?

Also curious as to what others think about the order of installing this: Would you install to bare walls, or wait until you put the cement board up and then go through that? They say you can put it up after the walls are tiled, but I don't think that is a good idea...
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Unread 04-13-2018, 07:31 PM   #49
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Steve, if you don't have your wallboard installed, I'd recommend you install some blocking for your bench before you do that. Installing such devices prior to installing your wallboard could limit your ability to use a direct bonded waterproofing system effectively.

If you're installing such benches (I've installed only the Innovis Better Bench version) prior to tiling, it doesn't take much to support it and after the walls are tiled below the bench it will be well supported on those tiles.

I'm not familiar with the Goof Proof version and couldn't recommend it.

My opinion; worth price charged.
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Unread 04-14-2018, 05:00 AM   #50
Steve in Land O Lakes
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Thanks I will be looking at a couple of options today

CX, I will be securely fastening some hard wood 1x3 or 4 at the seat height on the exterior wall between the furring strips. Also some more support on the shower's back wall studs (the other side of the Triangle's connection). I am going to take a close look at a couple of seats kits today. I will try to get a look or at least some info on the bench you suggested (Innovis).
Thanks again.
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Unread 04-14-2018, 11:22 AM   #51
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When hanging backer board...

Bought the Durock (1/2"), 2" fiberglass self-adhering tape and some modified thinset...

When hanging backer board, many sites say don't install any screws in the last inch of the board's edge as this causes cracking.

But the pro-advice guy at Floor and Decor said the cement board must meet finished edge to finished edge in the middle of the stud.

Doesn't seem (to the inexperienced, me) that those two things can happen at the same time.

Can seams meet up without a stud right behind it?

Can I screw into the last inch of the backer board (carefully) to secure it, without cracking it?

Thoughts?
Thanks in advance...
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Unread 04-14-2018, 11:43 AM   #52
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Hi Steve, I haven't read through this whole thread so I'm not sure what kind of backer that you are installing. If it's Hardibacker (or similar) you could easily predrill the board on the seams where your studs will have two board butted up to one another.

Another option is to wait on screwing that seam until both boards are installed. Sometimes having the neighboring board installed will lessen the blowout. Sometimes you can install a screw right in the middle of both boards and grab both boards with one screw.

Finally, the best option would be to install a second "sister" stud on all of these seams. That gives you 3 inches to screw into for the seams.

If it's cement board then you should be able to get a screw into the longer wrapped seams with little problem. The ends are more difficult and I would recommend the sister option mentioned above.

About the bench- I have one of those Goof-Proof benches in my garage and could take some photos of it tomorrow. I've never installed one and don't now much about it- but I have one to refer to if that would be helpful.
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Unread 04-14-2018, 12:12 PM   #53
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I've found sistering studs at vertical studs much easier than dealing with blowout on those edge screws.

But, is your shower over 5'? You shouldn't need any vertical joints.
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Unread 04-14-2018, 02:34 PM   #54
Steve in Land O Lakes
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update on boards

The boards are 1/2" Durock.
The shower interior measures 32" x 60".
Haven't decided on high high I will go with the tile.

I just scavenged some hefty 2" x 10" board and some high grade (no voids) 3/4" plywood. I plan to use the plywood as a backer between the furring strips on the exterior wall. I will slice off a couple of pieces of the 2" x 10" for blocking on the back wall (these will be the braces for the "Goof Proof" Corner shower seat).

Looked at tile today while buying the boards and stuff; took home some samples. Everything the wife liked was nice in my opinion too, but the floor tile she picked is like a 12 by 12 mesh with sliced river rocks in it (hard to cut?) and a porcelain 3 x 6 with the colors compatible to the floor rocks; no bull nose around for the wall tiles...

I have the Goof Proof seat on order from Amazon, I thought I would be using bull nose to bullnose on the 3 inch (or so) front vertical where it meets the top of the seats horizontal... But no bull nose. I saw a video of a pro tiling a similar corner seat, he had no bull nose either so he sanded the edges of the same tile he was using on the walls to use on the seat where the front meet the top. Would sanded the edges of the porcelain tile result in a smooth enough edge to sit on the seat?

Two things I have learned well already in shower-land: Nothing is simple and Tile doesn't Bend...
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Unread 04-14-2018, 02:47 PM   #55
Steve in Land O Lakes
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pic's of the tile samples

The pebble tiles and the 2x2 three sample of the floor tile she liked...
and the rectangles are the two wall tile options she picked...

Cutting those peoples sheets looks like it might not be fun...

The 2x2 squares would make life easier. That said I keep telling myself its only 15 feet of it...
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Unread 04-14-2018, 02:49 PM   #56
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You're learning fast, Steve. The third thing is that there's always more to learn.

Lay the pebble sheets together and see how they fit. If the space between the sheets are too obvious, you might want to pull them off the sheets and lay them individually. It's a pain but makes a nicer looking floor with no cutting at all. I'd get my wife involved in doing this.
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Unread 04-14-2018, 03:57 PM   #57
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Davy you're kidding right ?

There are 75 tiles (or so) on a sheet 15 square feet of floor at the pace I work (I am fit but I am old) I should be dead by the time I finish
Seriously I looked at the sheets again and as you said there is a lot of space between the sliced rocks... Maybe I should just lobby Her to pick the square 2 by 2's?

Wait! I re-read your post Davy and saw the words, "with no cutting at all"... I didn't let that sink in the first time I read your thoughts... No cutting is very appealing
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Last edited by Steve in Land O Lakes; 04-14-2018 at 04:16 PM. Reason: reread Davy's post, changed my opinion, typo's
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Unread 04-14-2018, 04:16 PM   #58
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We have gotten to the point we lay all pebble floors one stone at a time. You get much better results. And no cutting.

The pic below shows pre-sealing before grouting to enhance the stones
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Unread 04-14-2018, 06:30 PM   #59
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I knew the "no cutting" part would sway you. Just tell your wife you need help putting a puzzle together. Tell her there's no picture to go by and you get to make your own pieces.
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Unread 04-16-2018, 06:18 PM   #60
Steve in Land O Lakes
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Preference for liquid membrane...

Boards going up, will tape and thinset seams, corners and screw holes...

Planning on buying Redgard for waterproofing, unless there are some advantages (that I am not aware of ) in using Aqua Defense, of Hydro Ban... I saw that Lowes doesn't carry Hydro Ban, but it does carry Aqua Defense. Home Depot does carry Redgard but not the other two.

Fact is I didn't see any store near me that stocked Hydro Ban.

Any that have used two or more have a thought on the products?
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