Ceramic Tile Advice Forums - John Bridge Ceramic Tile

Welcome to John Bridge / Tile Your World, the friendliest DIY Forum on the Internet


Advertiser Directory
JohnBridge.com Home
Buy John Bridge's Books

Go Back   Ceramic Tile Advice Forums - John Bridge Ceramic Tile > Tile & Stone Forums > Tile Forum/Advice Board

Sponsors


Reply
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread
Old 04-18-2019, 10:55 PM   #1
attdsltech
Registered User
 
Join Date: Apr 2019
Posts: 27
Kohler Greek Drop in Tub install questions

Starting a master bath remodel. Purchased a Kohler K-1490 tub. Looking at installation instructions it calls for tile to be tiled up to edge as opposed to underneath ie set on tiled deck. Most of posts I've read recommend tiling deck first. Anyone have experience with this tub or something similar. My main concern is water getting under tub edge to deck below. The installation diagrams show tub 1/8" above wood platform then chalked. Then placing hardi backer chalk again then tiling with a 1/16" gap Then silicone chalk. Any advise would be appreciated.

Dennis

Sent from my SM-G955U using Tapatalk
__________________
Dennis
attdsltech is offline   Reply With Quote
Sponsored Links
Old 04-19-2019, 01:03 AM   #2
Kman
Moderator
 
Kman's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2006
Location: NW Arkansas, Ozark Mountains
Posts: 10,699
Welcome to the forum, Dennis.

Kohler is concerned that if the tub rim bears any weight, it'll crack the tub. That's why it's set 1/8" above. I strongly recommend you set the tub in mortar, level the tub while the mortar is still wet, then weight it down until the mortar dries overnight.

Then set the tile backer on the tub deck with a 1/8" gap between the tub and backer, and use silicone caulk for that seam.

This part isn't addressed in the instructions, but I'll say it here. I would waterproof the tub deck all the way around, and even a couple of inches down the tub skirt, at least. I'd also go up any surrounding walls about a foot or so.

Use whatever waterproofing you want, but seal it to the tub as well. How that is sealed depends on your choice of waterproofing. Most likely the cheapest and easiest route in your case would be a gallon of Redgard from Home Depot. Follow the instructions for whichever product you decide on.

Then you can set your tile, and caulk the tile to the tub with 100% silicone.
__________________
Kevin

The top ten reasons to procrastinate:

1.
Kman is online now   Reply With Quote
Old 04-19-2019, 08:49 PM   #3
attdsltech
Registered User
 
Join Date: Apr 2019
Posts: 27
Thanks for the info. I was pretty sure setting tub on deck without any water proofing was a bad idea. You would think Kohler would correct their Installation instructions. I will be framing the deck this weekend. Thanks again for quick reply.

Dennis

Sent from my SM-G955U using Tapatalk
__________________
Dennis
attdsltech is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-20-2019, 02:16 PM   #4
J.Roddick
Registered User
 
Join Date: Aug 2004
Location: Bellingham, WA
Posts: 42
I really like that tub. I did my surround flush with the tub lip.
Attached Images
 
__________________
Jeffrey

"If you don't think too good : Don't think too much"
J.Roddick is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-25-2019, 01:38 PM   #5
attdsltech
Registered User
 
Join Date: Apr 2019
Posts: 27
Kerdi Shower tray question

Progressing on master bath remodel prepping rough plumbing for new shower. Here's the question. The shower is going to be 53" 65" I plan on using a 72"72" prefab tray trimming width to 53" taking 9.5" off sides. The question is length. I need the drain at 36" due to floor joists. Is there going to be an issue if I just cut 7" off far end of tray? Schluter says to trim evenly from both sides. Thanks in Advance



Sent from my SM-G955U using Tapatalk
__________________
Dennis
attdsltech is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-25-2019, 02:03 PM   #6
speed51133
Registered User
 
Join Date: May 2017
Location: Milwaukee WI area
Posts: 569
only issue will be uneven wall lines along the foam tray and the wall. This makes tiling a horizontal first row harder (well making it look symmetrical and nice at least.

not sure how uneven it will be from 7in....

I had to do the same thing on a shower. I put the wall tile first, then the floor tile. Due to the floor tile thickness, I was able to hide any unevenness in the floor tile thickness.
__________________
Mike
speed51133 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-25-2019, 03:36 PM   #7
cx
Da Home Builder
 
cx's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2001
Location: Boerne, Texas
Posts: 88,044
Dennis, it'll help if you'll keep all your project questions on one thread so folks can see what you're working on and what's been previously asked and answered. A moderator can give it a more generic title any time you'd like to suggest one.

This is a case where I'd very strongly recommend you forget the foam tray and create your sloped mud bed with deck mud to perfectly fit your shower footprint and drain location.

While the foam trays can have some advantage when your shower footprint and drain location are designed to fit the available tray and your subfloor is perfectly level and flat, they just don't make sense in a situation such as you have. You can also save a good bit of money using the mud shower floor and have a better floor, too.

My opinion; worth price charged.
__________________
CX

Y'ALL NEW VISITORS READ THIS HERE!
cx is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-25-2019, 07:23 PM   #8
attdsltech
Registered User
 
Join Date: Apr 2019
Posts: 27
Thanks cx. I did some more reading on the tray and see that making my own with deck mud seems to make more sense. This brings up some questions. Is there a step by step procedure on the web to build a mud deck? Do I still used the kerdi membrane over the mud similar to the prefab tray? And what about drain assembly? Is there ones designed for mud beds? I'm going to have to cut into and patch subfloor to relocate plumbing so the mud beds forgiving nature with uneven floors seems the best method thanks for advise.

Sent from my SM-G955U using Tapatalk
__________________
Dennis
attdsltech is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-26-2019, 09:43 AM   #9
Tiger Mountain Tile Inc
Registered Muser
 
Tiger Mountain Tile Inc's Avatar
 
Join Date: Feb 2011
Location: Issaquah, Washington
Posts: 6,588
I thought that there was some information on how to build a shower receptor in the Liberry but can't find it. Not sure it exists anymore?

But there are two threads in the Liberry that may be helpful: one on the Kerdi drain and then the shower construction thread near the bottom.

You can use a Kerdi drain with the drypack method and the Kerdi Shower Handbook has some info on this method.

https://sccpublic.s3-external-1.amaz...20Handbook.pdf
__________________
Jim Upton
DIYTileGuy

Last edited by Tiger Mountain Tile Inc; 04-26-2019 at 10:17 AM.
Tiger Mountain Tile Inc is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-26-2019, 08:13 PM   #10
attdsltech
Registered User
 
Join Date: Apr 2019
Posts: 27
Found a video on Schluter's website on using Dry pack with kerdi drain. They show the drain flange supported by spacers 1" above subfloor. Question, Is 1" at drain flange a thick enough mortar bed? They placed plastic down then a metal lath on floor stapling lath to floor. Procedure looks straight forward my only concern is how fast I can do it. How long do you have before it starts hardening? Can you do screeds around borders first and then move towards drain with fresh batchs? Thanks in advance



Sent from my SM-G955U using Tapatalk
__________________
Dennis
attdsltech is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-26-2019, 08:58 PM   #11
Kman
Moderator
 
Kman's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2006
Location: NW Arkansas, Ozark Mountains
Posts: 10,699
Over a wood subfloor, 1 1/4" is the minimum.

I use thin strips of wood as a perimeter screed point to keep the mud level, and the drain flange for the other end of the screed.

It's best to work a particular area of the shower, rather than from the outside to the drain. I start with the drain and pack mud tightly underneath it.
Then I move to a far corner and fill from the corner to the drain with a full bucket of mud. Work towards the other corner and get it filled, then switch to the other side where you first started, then back again til you're finished.

The key is to not let the edge of the mud sit open too long before continuing with more mud against it. Usually takes about 45 minutes to an hour.

Does that all make sense?
__________________
Kevin

The top ten reasons to procrastinate:

1.
Kman is online now   Reply With Quote
Old 04-28-2019, 09:57 AM   #12
attdsltech
Registered User
 
Join Date: Apr 2019
Posts: 27
Ok so work in slices so your exposed area is still wet as work around drain. As opposed to doing whole perimeter which could have some sides too dry before you get to them.

Sent from my SM-T800 using Tapatalk
__________________
Dennis
attdsltech is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-27-2019, 07:22 PM   #13
attdsltech
Registered User
 
Join Date: Apr 2019
Posts: 27
Making some progress. Finished rough drain lines and framed tub platform. I'm waiting on plaster ground for the Moen transfer valve missing from valve kit. Have some questions regarding sealing the kerdi around the moen 3372 transfer valve. Schluter does not make a prefab seal that size. What's the procedure for water proofing the valve?

Sent from my SM-G955U using Tapatalk
__________________
Dennis
attdsltech is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 05-29-2019, 11:04 PM   #14
Kman
Moderator
 
Kman's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2006
Location: NW Arkansas, Ozark Mountains
Posts: 10,699
Dennis, I went ahead and deleted the other thread you started, since it seems to be a repeat of the above question.

If you find your questions aren't answered after a reasonable time, simply make another reply with the word "bump" to bring your thread to the top of the queue. We try to catch all questions that come in, but once in a while, we miss one. I assure you that it's not intentional.

I've simply use silicone in previous situations like yours and just smeared it on the exposed gypsum to keep water out. You can use Kerdi fix if you want, but it's very messy and very expensive. Others use Sikaflex for that application. Whatever you think is best for your situation.

Whatever you use, just smear it liberally on the exposed gypsum and the edge of the Kerdi. You shouldn't see significant moisture get to that area as long as the trim plate has a good seal on it.
__________________
Kevin

The top ten reasons to procrastinate:

1.
Kman is online now   Reply With Quote
Old 05-29-2019, 11:19 PM   #15
attdsltech
Registered User
 
Join Date: Apr 2019
Posts: 27
Ok Thanks for reply. That makes sense you are basically sealing the raw edge of the drywall. Schluter video just showed them applying kerdi seal in opening but nothing else after that.

Sent from my SM-G955U using Tapatalk
__________________
Dennis
attdsltech is offline   Reply With Quote
Reply

Stonetooling.com   Tile-Assn.com   National Gypsum Permabase


Thread Tools Search this Thread
Search this Thread:

Advanced Search

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Forum Jump

Similar Threads
Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
Drop-In Tub Install wolfeda16 Tile Forum/Advice Board 4 12-30-2016 09:25 PM
Kohler Kathryn shower Base Install HELP!!! jrc123 Tile Forum/Advice Board 52 11-12-2014 07:28 AM
Drop Ceiling, Kerdi install questions? eljefeguero Tile Forum/Advice Board 13 02-05-2012 10:31 PM
Kohler Cast iron shower pan install gregory99 Tile Forum/Advice Board 6 05-05-2011 07:58 AM
Kohler Villager tub install questions dr47 Tile Forum/Advice Board 8 07-28-2005 01:47 AM


All times are GMT -6. The time now is 03:27 AM.


Sponsors

Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.7.4
Copyright ©2000 - 2019, Jelsoft Enterprises Ltd.
Copyright 2018 John Bridge & Associates, LLC