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Old 06-15-2019, 11:43 AM   #1
Rusty - da - Realtor
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Step Down Shower Help

Hello Everyone,

It's been awhile.

I have an old Duplex and I'm trying to get side 'B' ready to move into. It is 800 s.f frame construction on a concrete slab. I cut the slab for new drain lines and I also cut a hole in the floor, 34" x 54", where the shower will be. My plan it to pour concrete in the hole and then and then cut down a kerdi shower base and leave it about 1-1/2" below the bathroom floor and not have a curb. I will extend my floor membrane a foot or so past the shower step. I would like to use a pivoting glass shower door.

My question: Will a plumbing inspector give me grief over the curbless shower?
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Old 06-15-2019, 12:26 PM   #2
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Welcome back, Russell.

Hard to say what an individual inspector would say, they've all got their own little quirks. Probably best to just ask them.

I'd be more concerned about the slab and how you propose to connect the new concrete to the old. How far do you plan on dropping the shower floor to accommodate the tray?
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Old 06-15-2019, 12:42 PM   #3
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Thanks for the reply, Kman

I just want a small step, like 1", or there abouts.
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Old 06-15-2019, 01:44 PM   #4
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One of the guys, I think it was Davy, had a way of doing that without breaking up the whole depth of the slab.

I think he scored it down to the desired depth, then chipped off the scored concrete. I think he was using deck mud vs. a tray, though. Setting a tray on that rough surface wouldn't work, so you would have to go a little deeper and cover it with SLC.
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Old 06-15-2019, 02:36 PM   #5
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Yeah, I 've done this on several showers for wheelchair access.
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Old 06-15-2019, 02:39 PM   #6
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It's the divot method using the pan to form the divot.
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Old 06-15-2019, 06:54 PM   #7
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Thanks for the replies, gentlemen.

Davy, I saw your divot method when I was searching through the posts. I like it.

There was no bathroom before, so I had to cut concrete to lay the drains and I decided to cut the entire shower area.

I was going to use a linear drain, but I've just about talked myself out of it, as I don't like the idea of the sloped wall tile where it meets the sloped floor.

So do you think I'll be okay with a 1" step down?
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Old 06-15-2019, 08:48 PM   #8
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If you're wanting a zero-entry shower, you just have to account for the water proofing materials, setting materials, and tile thicknesses, both inside and outside the shower.

But most importantly, have the minimum 1/4" per foot of slope on the shower floor to the drain in every direction. A little more slope is better. I usually make mine around 5/16 - 3/8".

Sometimes it just takes laying everything out in a mock-up to see how it will go.
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Old 06-16-2019, 09:03 AM   #9
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Thanks, Kman

I think I will pour the concrete 2-1/2" below floor level and I will pour the crete 3 to 4"thick. The pan will be about 1-1/16" thick, after I cut it down, and that will leave about 1-3/8" after the pan. If I use 1/4" floor tile and 1/8" of thinset, that'll put my step down at about 1".

Thanks for all of your advice. I am certain I will have more questions. I will send post progress reports as I go, if you don't mind.

I have 100 projects started and it takes me forever to get anything done. Electrical inspector was supposed to be here last Thursday and he was a no show. Then he was supposed to be here on Friday and he didn't show - never even called. Hopefully Monday.
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Old 06-16-2019, 02:53 PM   #10
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Hi, Russell.

Are you going to use rebar between the old slab and the new pour?

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Old 06-16-2019, 09:39 PM   #11
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Yeah, that's why I was asking about how much drop you had, not realizing all the concrete was gone in that area.

Drill and dowel the edge of the slab using rebar to secure the new concrete to the old. You limit the movement between the two that way.
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Old 06-17-2019, 06:28 AM   #12
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Thanks,

Yes, I will install re-bar. And I am going to attempt a mud bed on top of the concrete, though I haven't done it enough to be good at it. I would've put that concrete in without rebar if you folks hadn't reminded me.
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