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Unread 03-29-2012, 08:11 PM   #1
oakview
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Soldering Copper Pipe

Like Paul's great grouting and subway tile tutorials, copper pipe soldering is something many of already know how to do, but it's nice to see quality explanations for a process from start to finish.

I'm doing a bunch of copper piping for a small bath remodel in my home and needed a refresher on copper pipe soldering. I found these two video tutorials (Part 1 & 2) do a great job of explaining the whole process. I changed my method slightly based on these tutorials and am getting perfect joints every time. Hope these help someone else.

How To Solder Copper Pipe Like a Pro - Part 1 of 2

How To Solder Copper Pipe Like a Pro - Part 2 of 2

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Unread 03-29-2012, 08:15 PM   #2
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Those videos are great. That guy really knows how to solder and make clean joints. I used his techniques as well. Very informative and professional.
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Unread 03-30-2012, 11:03 AM   #3
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. I was taught that if you bend the solder to the size of the pipe thats pretty close to how much solder you use.( 1/2" pipe approx 1/2" solder) I have seen people run 2" of solder in a 1/2" fitting.
Also if you are afraid of burning town the house ,try a Shark Bite.They work great!
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Unread 03-30-2012, 05:20 PM   #4
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I prefer PEX. It's new to the plumbing world but it has been around for some time now. The Beverage Companies have been using this type of stuff to run their syrups through to their dispensing units for ages.

But, everyones different.
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Unread 03-30-2012, 05:55 PM   #5
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Great videos....thanks!
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Unread 03-30-2012, 11:39 PM   #6
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The tip in the video about using regular paste flux does indeed make a difference. I had been using Oatey No. 95 tinning flux, a common item at big box and other hardware stores. I soldered some joints today using Nokorode Regular Paste flux and solder flowed into the joints better and the finished joints were definitely cleaner.
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Unread 03-31-2012, 06:28 AM   #7
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Quote:
I was taught that if you bend the solder to the size of the pipe thats pretty close to how much solder you use.( 1/2" pipe approx 1/2" solder)
Correct! Anything more and you are losing money.
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Unread 03-31-2012, 07:27 AM   #8
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Plus you can get balls of solder stuck inside the pipe which can rattle and make noise as well as clog valves.
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Unread 03-31-2012, 07:50 AM   #9
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Ehh not crazy about his soldering technique. If heat the joint properly, the solder will flow from top to bottom.

I do so much soldering sometimes i think i should be a plumber instead. I also learned some tips from a nyc union pipefitter while i rebuilt his shower.

One tip my soldering mentor gave me is if you're not sure if you got the solder all the way around is to hit the joint with flux just when you finish the joint. I do that for all my joints and have never had a leak.

I have seen pex fail and even ripped it out and replaced it with copper. IMO I also think the fittings are expensive. i never use pex. I only do remodels so i never even come across pex at all. Everything is copper and thats what i replace it with.
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Last edited by LAN1870; 03-31-2012 at 07:57 AM.
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Unread 04-01-2012, 07:29 AM   #10
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Been a long time since I did any soldering, just was never good at it so I let the plumbers do it. I would like to get better though, thanks for this thread

I too need a soldering mentor.
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Unread 04-01-2012, 08:13 AM   #11
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Leslie
I have seen pex fail and even ripped it out and replaced it with copper
What kind of failures have you seen? I could imagine it failing if it was bent so sharply that it kinked a little, or if crimp fittings weren't installed right.
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Unread 04-01-2012, 08:31 AM   #12
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There were issues with a certain brand of fittings years ago, and it got hyped up. Some people compare it to the old PB pipe as well, which had failures.

Pex has been around a long time, and it has it's pro's and con's just like anything else. I just used a few thousand feet for my radiant floor heat in my own home.. I also ran all the new copper for potable supplies, and near boiler piping. I like both....

Around here, copper is the norm because we have a good water supply that doesnt corrode copper. Other parts of the country have moved away from copper out of necessity, and pex is the current answer.

I've seen plenty of copper fail btw.. usually installer error. Wipe the pipes with a rag after the solder sets, but before the pipe completely cools. It'll remove any remaining flux that will corrode the fitting over time.
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Unread 04-01-2012, 09:40 AM   #13
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I agree, Leslie. I was taught the same thing about hitting the joint with flux after you sweat it.

He did mention that the solder follows the heat but failed to mention that you want to hit the pipe with the solder opposite the side of where the heat is applied.
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Unread 04-01-2012, 11:01 PM   #14
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Leslie
One tip my soldering mentor gave me is if you're not sure if you got the solder all the way around is to hit the joint with flux just when you finish the joint. I do that for all my joints and have never had a leak.
Yeah, that's a good tip and should be SOP when soldering. The additional fluxing helps seal any small fissures that might occur, plus it cleans up the joint and makes it look better.

Another tip is to use an ammonia-based spray cleaner like Windex to wipe down the joint after it's cooled some - neutralizes the acidic flux.
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