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Unread 09-21-2007, 08:46 AM   #1
Rich50
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How Can I Use Kerdi Base

Hi,

My master bath will have a 48" x 72" shower and I want to use the Kerdi shower kit including the tray but I am not sure how to do it. Should I get the 48" x 48" kit and fill the remaning 12" on each side of the tray with mortar or some other "filler" or could I get the 72" x 72" tray and cut it down to 48" x 72"? In either case I am not sure how to keep all the tray edges level and still retain the proper slope for drainage. I really do not want to make a mud base. Any suggestions?

Moderator - Please don't combine this with my thread about sub flooring.

Rich
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Unread 09-21-2007, 08:49 AM   #2
ddmoit
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Hi Rich,

You cannot use the Kerdi tray in your shower and keep all your first row tiles level with one another. A dry pack slope is your best bet.
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Unread 09-21-2007, 09:01 AM   #3
cx
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What Dan said.

You can use the smaller tray and fill in with mortar as you suggest, but you won't be level all the way around. If you're using large tiles on the wall, you may be able to cut in the bottom row such that no one will ever notice, but the only real way to have a level line all around is to make a custom mud slope. It's cheap and easy.

Moderators won't combine your threads on different projects, Rich, but keep all the shower questions here, eh?
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Unread 09-21-2007, 11:50 AM   #4
Rich50
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Thanks Dan & CX.

If I were to use the 48" x 48" pan and fill in with 12" of mud on each end - how much would the slope have to be from the wall to the pan?
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Unread 09-21-2007, 12:10 PM   #5
sgrandjean
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Rich,
I believe you're looking for a slope equal to 1/4" per foot.

Cheers.
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Unread 09-21-2007, 01:43 PM   #6
Kirk Grodske
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Minimum Slope is 1/4" per foot which is why, when the distances are not equal, you don't have a level line. When the distances get smaller the pitch increases from that level line.
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Unread 09-21-2007, 02:10 PM   #7
JTG
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Rich
when you have placed the Kerdi tray you can use that as your slope guide. Just continue the tray slope out to the walls. Pack in the mud well then screed it off.
You can then go around the walls with a level and add remove mortar to make it level. Just make sure that you do have slope to the drain everywhere.
Good Luck
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Unread 09-21-2007, 07:08 PM   #8
sandbagger
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Quote:
Just continue the tray slope out to the walls.
well, the problem I realized awhile back with this is that the slope you are continuing is on the short side of the tray. By design (to keep the perimeter level) the short side of the tray slopes more than 1/4" per foot. I haven't' done the calculation, but it means that the 12" mud extension could be end up considerably higher at the wall than the along the wall with the tray. It will definitely have to slope more than 1/4" per foot. Remember, that 1/4" /ft on the tray is measured from drain center to the fartherest corner.

I don't remember who makes them, but we've seen a couple of folks use a set of slope guides that you can use for screeds - they're part of the floor and never come out. maybe somebody can come up with a name or link.
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Unread 09-21-2007, 10:48 PM   #9
PrecisionFlooring
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I believe this may be what you are looking for..
Quick Pitch Sysyem
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Unread 09-22-2007, 03:18 PM   #10
sandbagger
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that be it, Paul.

just be sure to click the "products" link and you'll see the QuickPitch (and several other nifty products). Unfortunately their screwy website doesn't let you link directly to the product you want.
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Unread 02-29-2008, 06:41 AM   #11
Rich50
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Two New Showers

Hi all,

I'am about to get to work on tiling the walls of two new construction baths. The upstairs bath is a shower and tub combination. The 3 walls are cement board and all internal (no outside walls). A vapor barrier was not put up behind the cement board.
2 upstairs bath questions:
-Could or should I Redguard the walls to waterproof before tiling?
-There is a 1/4" gap between the top of the tub flange and the end of the cement board. I know I should caulk this gap with silicone, but what fills up the gap behind the tile (about 1" high) and in front of the tub flange from where the cement board stops and the actual tub begins(about 1" high).

In the master bath there is a 4' x 6' shower the contractor is doing the floor pan and shower floor tiling. The walls are cement board and there is no vapor barrier behind the cement board. Two of the walls are exterior 2x6 walls. There is 2" of sprayed foam insulation and 4" of unfaced fiberglass batt insulation in the exterior walls.
1 master bath question:
-Could or should I Redguard the walls to waterproof before tiling?

Once again thanks for your help.
Rich
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Unread 02-29-2008, 12:24 PM   #12
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bump
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Unread 02-29-2008, 01:02 PM   #13
Brian in San Diego
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Rich,

Sorry to see you abandoned the idea of using kerdi for these areas. The answer to both questions regarding waterproofing is a definite "Yes!". There has to be some type of waterproofing in place either behind the cbu or topically applied (like RedGuard, Laticrete Hyrdo-Ban or TEC HyrdaFlex).

I'm not sure exactly what you are describing with regard to the cbu and the tub lip. Are you saying that the cbu doesn't extend down past the flange of the tub that is used to rest against the studs? IMO the cbu should extend down past that flange and stop within 1/4" of the tub.

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Unread 02-29-2008, 01:05 PM   #14
Rich50
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Brian,

That is correct - the cbu stops about 1/4" above the tub flange.
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Unread 02-29-2008, 01:30 PM   #15
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There's really no effective way to waterproof that gap without a moisture barrier membrane behind the CBU, Rich. I think your options would be to remove the CBU and install such a barrier that laps over the tub flange (preferably with the CBU lapping over the flange, too) or covering the walls with a waterproof membrane and attaching that to the tub flange with a proprietary pookey from the membrane manufacturer. Kerdi or NobleSeal would serve that purpose.

My opinion; worth price charged.
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