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Unread 01-11-2013, 11:32 PM   #1
electriczipper
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Constructing bi-level ember proof hearth

Hi All and Thanks, I'm constructing a bi-level tile covered hearth that only needs to be ember proof. The supporting structure is all wood and will be completely covered with 1/2"hardibacker. The stove sitting on the high part while the low part sits just in front of the stove to avoid a tripping hazard. This set up is to take advantage of an existing offset outside air supply through the floor where I removed a previous fire place in this manufactured home.

1. To attach a 4.75" high x 62" (divided into 2 or 3 lengths) wide strip of .5" hardibacker to the vertical transition face of the bi-level hearth would just thinset and screws be the best way or would it be better to use a construction adhesive and screws? or maybe a fortified with moose milk thinset and screws?

The wall behind will be 12" from woodstove if it had been in a stick built home it could've been only 7" so it is well out of danger. The wall studs are 1.5"x3" set on 16" cntrs covered with gypsum board so it isn't vibration proof in back but everything on the floor is solid.

2. Is there a way to stick 6"sq tile to such a wall without them being rattled off?
I was thinking that maybe I should only go 6" high x 62"w with it, but if possible I may do a silhouette of the stove extended 1' beyond all edges of stove in addition to the 6"h x 62"w base.

3. I was thinking of using materials from lowes'. Is this a good idea or should I look elsewhere for grout and thinset? as their offerings seemed limited I could be wrong though.

4. Would it be advisable to use a 2 part thinset that can be fortified with moose milk?

I'd like to stick everything as solid as possible. Any and all advice is Very much appreciated.
Thank you,
Randall
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Last edited by electriczipper; 01-12-2013 at 10:44 AM. Reason: confusing and incomplete. ;)
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Unread 01-12-2013, 10:56 AM   #2
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I looked at this today and I had to edit it as it was confusing to me even. The moral is, don't post when tired.
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Unread 01-12-2013, 02:05 PM   #3
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I finally hit on a proper search "hearth construction" (imagine that), on this forum and came up with something to read through and a reference to hearth.com. So I should be able to find something, but any and all additional advice still would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks in advance,
Randall
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Unread 01-12-2013, 03:45 PM   #4
Richard Tunison
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Hi Randall.

I'm a Florida boy and haven't the clue about your questions but I'd bet you would get some responses if you could upload pictures of your project.
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Unread 01-12-2013, 10:35 PM   #5
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Will do tomorrow.
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Unread 01-13-2013, 03:05 PM   #6
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Hi Richard, Here's a pic of what I'm doing as you asked for. The 2' black level in front is where that strip is going on the 4.75" vertical transition.
The 6" high x 62"w course of tile to go against the wall is actually 79" wide. All advice on what to best stick/adhere/attach the hardibacker and tile to the vertical transition and the tile to the not rock solid wall would greatly be appreciated.

Thank you,
Randall

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Unread 01-13-2013, 07:44 PM   #7
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I've been a reading and I could be wrong about lowes and also my definition of premix. I was thinking that besides wet in a bucket permix that some of the dry stuff in a bag just add water was a premix? House tile is so new to me, but I know i can do this, I just have to know the right ingredients, once i get that watch out....at least till my first trip.
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Unread 01-13-2013, 09:47 PM   #8
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If the platforms are solid, then just use a good modified thinset under the backerboard and use screws to fasten the backerboard down. Then use the same thinset to attach the tile. The stuff you get a lowes is fine. I'd say thousands of homes are being built with that stuff.

Do the walls vibrate a lot? I don't know why you would be concerned about tile vibrating off. The wall will stiffen up a bit when you have the thinset and tile installed.
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Unread 01-13-2013, 10:44 PM   #9
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Hi Sean, and thanks.
I appreciate the input. I guess I lack confidence in new territory and tend to over build after over thinking it. My big worry is with the vertical surfaces and probably overly concerned. The wall behind isn't a real solid one and will vibrate if struck and I've 2 granddaughters who'll strike it. Then when i read stuff that says thinset under CBU isn't there to adhere it to the floor but to just fill in the voids, I get concerned about the 4.75" vertical transition and how it'll hold up if applying it there. I've heard that even silicon would stick the tile to the back wall but I figured better ask the pros to see if I could get confirmation and or advice on what to use.

Thanks again Sean,
I'll post pics after it's done.
Randall
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Unread 01-26-2013, 01:33 PM   #10
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Good Morning All. I've a question about taping and mudding the seams on the backer board after it's been put down. Does one do this and let it sit over night? or should one do this as you're laying tile down to maintain a wet joint for better adhesion? or does it matter?

Thank you,
Randall
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Unread 01-26-2013, 02:04 PM   #11
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You can do either. Some prefer to tape as they tile so they don't have to deal with the slight hump of the cured thinset. When I used backer board I didn't want to have to do multiple things at once, so I taped first and it was fine.
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Unread 01-27-2013, 06:08 PM   #12
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Thank you Wendy.
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Unread 05-23-2013, 12:47 PM   #13
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Hi all,
This project has slowed down considerably and I have been doing it as I can or have the desire to do it . I've completed laying and grouting the tile, but I've not sealed the grout as of yet. I've a question: Do any of the pros here have a preferred grout sealer they like above all else to use on charcoal colored cementitious Mapei brand keracolor s grout that is installed between glazed porcelain tile? I'd say that was a mouth full but I typed(keyboarded?) it.

Thank you, and I'll have a picture of it after I seal it. Then another after it's all done and the stove installed.

Randall
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Unread 05-24-2013, 10:09 AM   #14
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Whoops! I finally noticed the different forum for sealing. So I'll post there.
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