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Unread 01-30-2008, 10:40 AM   #1
johnalaimony@yahoo.com
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Making your own shower curb

What I usually do is , when I have some down time I make myself shower curbs. It really is easy.I make the shape of the box, the height and the width and the length.Then screw it together, so you can re- use it again. line the box with some light oil, right on the wood, so it becomes non-stick. Now the mixture, for the the step. Get ready mix (sand and cement mix) and and a advance acrylic latex additive to it. This should increase strength and bond and also mold issue. Also in the middle of the top after pouring the cement in the cast make a long piece of wood the same length as the box.This will be inserted into the cement.
This piece should only be inserted about one third the way down the length, then fasten with screws at each end. After about two days I unscrew the whole thing and make more. they come out so nice.You can cut them to any length, and the ends to any angle.And then put pieces together for odd shapes The piece in the middle was for the membrane to go into.The insert made by the piece of wood put in on top.
One more thing make sure you put the insert in the center of the whole thing

Last edited by johnalaimony@yahoo.com; 01-30-2008 at 06:12 PM.
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Unread 01-30-2008, 12:22 PM   #2
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I've thought about doing this before as you have described. I just don't understand how the shower liner going up the center is going up or high enough? I thought it had to go up at least 4 inches into the curb to accomidate around 2" of mud at the perimeter so water won't leak outside the curb.

For this reason I always used peanut block or landscaping block 2" wide by 12" long 4" high to run the liner all the way up the middle of the blocks which would then get capped of with either Durrock or another layer of block followed by "Red Gaurd" waterproofing at the top and sides.

I like your idea, I just don't see how your shower pan liner is going deep enough into your curb?
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Unread 01-30-2008, 12:45 PM   #3
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Quote:
always used peanut block or landscaping block 2" wide by 12" long 4" high to run the liner all the way up the middle of the blocks which would then get capped of with either Durrock or another layer of block followed by "Red Gaurd" waterproofing at the top and sides.
homemade formula you sirred up yourself????? Ive sure never seen any detail that even resembles a curb like that............How do you attach your durock? Obviously there are no Mechanical fasteners which is Good in that you are not punching holes in the liner but Bad in that Cement Board MUST be fastened mechanically....And if you are using a Liner and wrapping it and following this with a paintable membrane you are sandwiching membranes which is also a poor plan......may i suggest..Having a look in our Library?
I see a few mechanical flaws in the plan you laid out and really would reccomend some library time.......you'll be lightyears ahead by doing so!!

Lots of good stuff in there.........I reccomend reading the Shower threads First!!


Quote:
What I usually do is
John.........How about a drawing explaining your technique a little better. I Generally build each step custom of Cement block and then mudfloated...( of course it seems like half the time they want radius's anyways)

I'd like to get a handle on just what it is you are proposing here!!
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Unread 01-30-2008, 12:55 PM   #4
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The pan goes up between the center of the blocks to the top. The blocks on the outside are set to the concrete with thin set. All the blocks are linked together with thin set. The durrock or more block is thinset to the top. The shower pan never goes up and over the curb. I always waterproofed it for good measure.
You can accomplish the same thing by building the curb out of form boards running the liner up the middle. You just have to wait until the nest day of course to take the form boards off.

I don't see where I could of punctured the liner or where I applied waterproofing to create a moisture sandwich?

As far as Durrock always having to be mechanically fastened, would you have to mechanically fasten Durrock to a concrete sub floor in order for it to be sound if you were thin setting it down ( I have never done this, it is a hypothetical question).
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Last edited by ob1kanobee; 01-30-2008 at 01:19 PM.
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Unread 01-30-2008, 01:55 PM   #5
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Pack up guys!

I'm moving this into the Pro Hangout.
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Unread 01-30-2008, 04:46 PM   #6
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After the liner is cornered properly, and put into the step you use wire mesh the whole length of it.you just make a upside down L and apply that against the membrane.Then you do your mud around your drain,with your proper slobe and finish by doing a stucco sought of a finish job against the wire mesh. Making it part of the mud job of the bottom floor pan and step ,making everything one piece.I also use a wall ties above the water line on the very top of the step.Then on top of that where the wire mesh is the top masonry piece gets put on to fasten everything.The wire mesh itself will be at least a few inches into the bed of the floor pan mud, which will fasten it there and the top cap will do the rest.
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Unread 01-30-2008, 05:00 PM   #7
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Welcome, johnalaimony@yahoo.com Please put a first name in your signature line for us to use.

Not sure where the term "step" comes in here, but it appears you are making pre-fab shower curbs, or dams. Never heard that part of a shower called a step. Not even from our other members from your foreign country of Nuevo Jersey, eh?

'Fraid I'm not at all able to follow your description of how you'd install these things effectively. Maybe you could post some photos of this installation?

But, in any case, I can't imagine that I couldn't build a mud curb over my pan liner in the same or less time and it would already be installed. Help me with the advantage of your system.
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Unread 01-30-2008, 06:03 PM   #8
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It shocks me when people just are so aggressive when they do not know. Schullter has them, the curbs for sale .Thank you for your response sir.
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Unread 01-30-2008, 06:26 PM   #9
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Aggressive???
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Unread 01-30-2008, 06:27 PM   #10
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Come on Scott, don't you know a good posting when you see one?
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Unread 01-30-2008, 06:28 PM   #11
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John,
I understand your idea but I see a few flaws with the idea, and that is why you are getting some feedback on your method. The problem with your method is that water that penetrates your step (some people in Utah say step too, CX) can go either into the step and into the pan, or into the step and out onto the floor. You could put a waterproofer on the step to keep water from penetrating but that is another extra step that takes time. Next, I have used foam curbs that are designed this way but always struggled to understand how to water proof the wall to step joint. Specifically on the top. I just don't see there being a good way to do it.

Schluters curb is designed to have waterproofing put over it, there is no channel for the pan to go into.

Noble has one too but it is also designed for a pan the completely wraps the step and not one that only goes up the middle.

Don't feel that anyone is directly attacking you. Nobody is, we all try to be nice but if someone has a new/different idea we all want to know how it will work.
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Unread 01-30-2008, 06:43 PM   #12
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Duneslider
(some people in Utah say step too, CX)
Yeah, Bryan, JB done already 'splained me that some of his customers in Houston call'em steps, too. Thought maybe it was just a Yankee thing, but even ol' Flatfloor don't call'em that. Now we'll prolly hear from Richie and Alex bein' all offended, too.
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Unread 01-30-2008, 07:11 PM   #13
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Ima brick curb guy myself. Seems like the two days you spent waiting for the box to set up you could be finished with the shower. When using a liner, the same "L" mesh you mentioned will hold it down without the need for a channel. When using a paint on, just paint on. When using Kerdi, just Kerdi. Not to bust on the idea for pre-constructed stuff, though. If ya had down time to waste, pouring these in advance to have ready and waiting might not be a bad idea. Have 'em in 6" increments (30", 36", 42", 48", etc.) and cut 'em off on the wet saw to desired length.
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Unread 01-30-2008, 07:26 PM   #14
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I've used the ones preformed with cement, and two small pieces of rebar inside.They had a channel just like an upside down U,and the pan was tucked up into it.I guess they were useful if you wanted to get done with a shower floor redo in one day.Here's one from Noble, a plastic one but mine were a cement product, but it's been 15 years and i can't remember where i got em....http://www.noblecompany.com/Products...9/Default.aspx
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Unread 01-30-2008, 07:48 PM   #15
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shower curb

These curbs If not seen with your eyes, are not really understood. Also a cap is put on the top off the L shape mesh to keep the water out with mortar. this is done with a brick layers skill. All the curb is filled with mortar.I have curbs still out there more than 15 years, and never have a problem. This is only for people who have many curbs to do. like a big condo project. You set all the curbs then when, you are ready to use them with your guys the curbs are ready.Then they get mortared to the base,of the shower.
( membrane is up and over the curb and into the opening of the curb, then the wire goes over it . please look back to the other blog for details.
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