Ceramic Tile Advice Forums - John Bridge Ceramic Tile

Welcome to John Bridge / Tile Your World, the friendliest DIY Forum on the Internet


Advertiser Directory
JohnBridge.com Home
Buy John Bridge's Books

Go Back   Ceramic Tile Advice Forums - John Bridge Ceramic Tile > Tile & Stone Forums > Tile Forum/Advice Board

Sponsors


Reply
Thread Tools Search this Thread
Unread 02-28-2010, 04:24 AM   #1
TheGaul
Registered User
 
Join Date: Feb 2010
Posts: 17
Kitchen remodel - First timer questions

Site is very helpful...and a little confusing due to so much info.

I'm a first timer looking to redo my kitchen floors and have the usual questions. I just 'bought' a house and haven't even settled on it yet, so I don't have access to all the details, but this is what I gather from my inspection report. I currently have:

2x10 joists
16 inches apart
I believe it's a 12 foot span
1x4 Tongue and Groove subfloors

1)What type of underlayment do I need? I'm thinking the following after reading here:

1)1/2 in plywood of type I with no face grade greater than C (no idea what those details mean)
2)modified thinset - toothpaste consistency
3)ditra
4)unmodified thinset - peanut butter consistency
5) 18" to be determined porcelain (?) tile


2) Where do I start? I'm doing the kitchen which connects to a path to the front door? Start in the middle of the kitchen or front door?

Thanks
__________________
Eric
TheGaul is offline   Reply With Quote
Sponsored Links
Unread 02-28-2010, 08:55 AM   #2
Brian in San Diego
AC Specialist -- Schluterville Graduate
 
Brian in San Diego's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2005
Location: La Quinta, CA and Usk, WA
Posts: 10,791
Eric,

Welcome to the John Bridge Forums! Looks like you were to discern the correct information from looking around the site. Everything you said looks good to me. If the dimensions given are correct you are good for a ceramic installation (L/558). The plywood information you have given is correct as well with the change from "type" 1 to "exposure" 1. Most of the big box stores carry BC exterior plywood which would be perfect for your job. I think finding CC is more difficult.

Layout of a tile pattern can be one of the more challenging segments of a tile installation. If inadequate time is given to the layout design then the results may be less than desired. I guess what I am saying is a perfectly executed and installed tile floor with a horrible layout will look horrible. If you want to spend $30 you might consider getting a download from Laurel Creek Software called "Precision Tile". I found it quite useful.

Brian
__________________
Brian
If that doesn't work, I'll always think it should have.
Brian in San Diego is offline   Reply With Quote
Unread 02-28-2010, 03:46 PM   #3
TheGaul
Registered User
 
Join Date: Feb 2010
Posts: 17
Kitchen remodel - first timer question

Follow up to my initial post - Someone suggeted to me that ditra is a bit expensive and really only needed in wet areas. Is there a cheaper material that I could use? I get confused between wonderboard, backerboard, cement board? What is the best board to use? Also, when would I use SLC? Only when there is a concrete or other hard surface that I couldn't nail into?

Although I see some debating, I think there is a preference to tile under cabinets if possible. How about with an island. If I tile under there, can I still attach 2x4 into the tile to attach the island to or am I better off installing the island first and going around that?

Finally, the hallway from the front door to the kitchen has curves in it? Any recommendation on how to do that. Am I better off zigzagging the tile so I have an edge to attach the threshold or just force a straight line so I'm not zigzagging all over the place? Thanks
__________________
Eric
TheGaul is offline   Reply With Quote
Unread 02-28-2010, 03:59 PM   #4
cx
Moderator emeritus
 
cx's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2001
Location: Boerne, Texas
Posts: 92,279
Quote:
Originally Posted by Eric
I get confused between wonderboard, backerboard, cement board?
Wonderboard is a type of backerboard sometimes referred to as "cement board" but more accurately called a cementitious backer unit, or CBU. There are many brands of CBU and even more types of backer boards, including Fiber/Cement boards (Hardibacker), foam backer boards (Wedi), Fiber-reinforced Water Resistant Gypsum backer boards, and on and on. Then there are a buncha membranes for the purpose, one of which is the Ditra you mentioned.

Ditra's only connection to wet areas is that it can be made waterproof. It's designed as an uncoupling membrane in any floor application requiring such.

Got that? Simple, non?

When labor is free, the CBUs are likely to be the least expensive.

They are not necessarily the best for protection of the tile installation, but they are usually sufficient if you have an adequate subfloor.

You would use a SLC only if you actually need leveling and there's no better way to do it. Also good for filling over radiant heat installations. Rarely necessary otherwise in my opinion.

I always tile at least under the edge of the cabinet footprint whenever possible.

I don't unnerstan the last question.

My opinion; worth price charged.
__________________
CX

Y'ALL NEW VISITORS READ THIS HERE!
cx is offline   Reply With Quote
Unread 02-28-2010, 04:04 PM   #5
MudMaker
The Revolution has begun/Make America Great Again
 
MudMaker's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2006
Location: Centerville, Ohio
Posts: 8,307
Quote:
Originally Posted by Eric
Finally, the hallway from the front door to the kitchen has curves in it?
What kinda radius curves are we talkin bout??
oh.. and Welcome the Forum..
__________________
mm (aka "Paco")
MudMaker is offline   Reply With Quote
Unread 03-09-2010, 07:13 PM   #6
TheGaul
Registered User
 
Join Date: Feb 2010
Posts: 17
Follow up question

I haven't started my project yet. I realized that the current floor is flush with the connecting rooms. If I add an underlayment on top and then the tile, I'll be at least a half inch above the other room. Can I tear out the exising 1/2 inch plywood and put 1/4 in hardiebacker board right on top of the 1x4 T&G so that I'm a lot closer to being flush?
__________________
Eric
TheGaul is offline   Reply With Quote
Unread 03-09-2010, 07:18 PM   #7
Brian in San Diego
AC Specialist -- Schluterville Graduate
 
Brian in San Diego's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2005
Location: La Quinta, CA and Usk, WA
Posts: 10,791
Quote:
Originally Posted by Eric
Can I tear out the exising 1/2 inch plywood and put 1/4 in hardiebacker board right on top of the 1x4 T&G so that I'm a lot closer to being flush?
Not according to James Hardie.
Quote:
Originally Posted by James Hardie FAQ section
The minimum subfloor specified is 5/8" exterior grade plywood or 23/32'' exterior grade OSB subflooring. HardieBacker board must be installed in accordance with local building codes and the floor must be engineered not to exceed the L/360 deflection criteria, including live and dead design loads, for the specific joist spacing used. HardieBacker board is not designed for use over concrete.
__________________
Brian
If that doesn't work, I'll always think it should have.
Brian in San Diego is offline   Reply With Quote
Unread 03-09-2010, 07:27 PM   #8
TheGaul
Registered User
 
Join Date: Feb 2010
Posts: 17
Clueless..(me)

Does the 1x4 not count?
__________________
Eric
TheGaul is offline   Reply With Quote
Unread 03-09-2010, 07:30 PM   #9
Brian in San Diego
AC Specialist -- Schluterville Graduate
 
Brian in San Diego's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2005
Location: La Quinta, CA and Usk, WA
Posts: 10,791
No, it doesn't count because it's dimensional lumber and not stable enough. It has to be plywood.
__________________
Brian
If that doesn't work, I'll always think it should have.
Brian in San Diego is offline   Reply With Quote
Unread 03-09-2010, 07:47 PM   #10
TheGaul
Registered User
 
Join Date: Feb 2010
Posts: 17
If I ever question you guys, just tell me not to ask the a*hole at Home Depot.

Next question
If I'm planning on using 16" or 18" tile, am I better off just renting a saw for the day. Input I got was that a standard saw(QEP 24 In, Dual Speed Tile Saw, 2 HP Motor, Wet Cutting, with 10 In Continuous Rim Diamond Blade or another $300 HD saw) won't work and the saw I would need would not be affordable for the 3 or 4 projects I need it for.
__________________
Eric
TheGaul is offline   Reply With Quote
Unread 03-09-2010, 07:58 PM   #11
Brian in San Diego
AC Specialist -- Schluterville Graduate
 
Brian in San Diego's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2005
Location: La Quinta, CA and Usk, WA
Posts: 10,791
Quote:
Originally Posted by Eric
If I ever question you guys, just tell me not to ask the a*hole at Home Depot.
So I see you met the "expert in the aisle" at your local Home Depot.

The QEP tile saw I see on HD website says right in the description that it can cut 24" straight and up to 18x18 tile on the diagonal. The diagonal measurement of an 18x18 tile is approximately 25 1/2". The one you are talking about sounds to be more powerful and has a 10" vs. an 8" blade on the one I linked. I'd say the saw will work for whatever you might throw at it. I personally think buying beats renting because you can work at your pace and you know how you've taken care of the saw and blade. I don't know how much saw rentals in your area are but you need to not only total the rental charges but the gas to go pick it up and return it 3-4 times as well as the time to do it. If you take that amount and subtract it from the cost of the saw then all you have to do is sell it for that amount at the end of the job and you have "broken" even...sell it for a little more and you come out ahead.

Brian
__________________
Brian
If that doesn't work, I'll always think it should have.
Brian in San Diego is offline   Reply With Quote
Unread 03-13-2010, 09:03 AM   #12
TheGaul
Registered User
 
Join Date: Feb 2010
Posts: 17
Layout

Question about layout. The entrance from my house leads through a doorway into the kitchen. Should I start at the door way and center that so I get a full tile on the inside of the kitchen, two full tiles in the doorway (or as close as I can), and that gives me as full a tile as possible through the entrance way (which is on an angle). I tried to attach an image, so hopefully that worked to give you an idea what I'm talking about.
__________________
Eric
TheGaul is offline   Reply With Quote
Unread 03-13-2010, 09:12 AM   #13
TheGaul
Registered User
 
Join Date: Feb 2010
Posts: 17
Layout

Attachment didn't work. 2nd attempt.
Attached Images
 
__________________
Eric
TheGaul is offline   Reply With Quote
Unread 03-16-2010, 05:16 AM   #14
TheGaul
Registered User
 
Join Date: Feb 2010
Posts: 17
Any layout experts???

anyone...anyone...anyone...
__________________
Eric
TheGaul is offline   Reply With Quote
Unread 03-16-2010, 05:26 AM   #15
bbcamp
Registered User
 
Join Date: Jul 2002
Posts: 30,274
I'm no layout expert, but I think your plan looks good. You have no really small cuts along the more visible walls, and your island seems centered on the tile pattern. If anything, try shifting the pattern up a half a tile to see what happens. It will make the top and bottom tiles at the walls less skinny, but makes the tiles in front of the cabinet less than full.
bbcamp is offline   Reply With Quote
Reply

Stonetooling.com   Tile-Assn.com   National Gypsum Permabase


Thread Tools Search this Thread
Search this Thread:

Advanced Search

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Forum Jump

Similar Threads
Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
Kitchen Remodel - Floor Questions tev9999 Tile Forum/Advice Board 2 02-06-2012 07:24 AM
First timer tileing a kitchen floor Jazzy66 Tile Forum/Advice Board 5 10-27-2009 09:55 AM
Modern Bathroom Remodel - 1st timer JasonSTL Tile Forum/Advice Board 27 06-19-2009 09:04 PM
Kitchen Remodel Questions. Tile on drywall & sloped floor kcwright Tile Forum/Advice Board 2 02-14-2006 11:15 AM
Major Kitchen/Tile Remodel (multi. questions) KCTileSet Tile Forum/Advice Board 1 02-10-2006 02:15 PM


All times are GMT -6. The time now is 02:06 AM.


Sponsors

Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.7.4
Copyright ©2000 - 2021, Jelsoft Enterprises Ltd.
Copyright 2018 John Bridge & Associates, LLC