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Unread 09-05-2004, 06:11 PM   #1
kailor
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Backer board thickness floors and walls

Hi, this is my second post here. I'm not quite sure how to keep all of MY bathroom questions in the same thread. Here goes:

2x10 floor joists
16" oc
8 ft. span
first subfloor layer, 3/4 ACX t&g ply
second subfloor layer, 1/2 BCX ply

Should I use 1/4" or 1/2" backer for floor ?
If needed, should a leveling compound be used prior to cbu-to-floor?
Secondly, shower: bare studs, what lb. roofing felt?, 1/4" or 1/2" backer for walls and ceiling?
Lastly, 1/4" or 1/2" backer around whirlpool surround?

Thanks so much.
Keith
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Unread 09-05-2004, 06:33 PM   #2
Jason_Butler
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Hi Kieth,

Just come back to this thread when you want to reply and hit the "reply" button at the bottom of the page to ask a question or make a comment

Now on to the task at hand. That's a pretty sound floor. You shouldn't have any deflection issues there. 1/4" CBU is spec'd for floors - 1/2" is for walls as a general rule. Just don't use 1/4" on walls. You will get too much flex between the studs. Most tub decks already have a layer of plywood so 1/4" is fine there as well

Just remember to use thinset between the subfloor and the CBU - Manufacturer ( and us) say so.

As for the roofing felt, I use 15#. You can go stiffer but it's harder to work with.

Jason
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Unread 09-05-2004, 07:03 PM   #3
Mike2
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Hi Keith, welcome to the Forum. Hope you stick around.

Any more questions come up, don't be afraid to ask you here. Jason's got the answers, he'll keep you on the right course.
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Unread 09-06-2004, 09:21 AM   #4
John Bridge
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Hi Keith,

You can place this page in your favorites just like any other page. You'll always be able to find it that way.
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Unread 09-07-2004, 12:33 PM   #5
kailor
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CBU orientation across joists

Does it matter if you lay cbu (5 ft. length) on the floor perpindicular to the joists, or can cbu be laid with direction of floor joists? I believe these come in 3'x5' sizes.

Thanks in advance,
Keith
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Unread 09-07-2004, 01:27 PM   #6
bbcamp
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No, it doesn't matter. CBU doesn't have a grain, and you want to avoid nailing into the joists anyway.
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Unread 09-09-2004, 08:20 AM   #7
kailor
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Header required over shower access?

I will be framing the last wall of my shower stall this afternoon and this wall contains the entrance to the shower. The bare stud dimensions of the shower are 34"x34". Am I required to install a header over this shower opening? If so, how deep should this header be?

Thanks, Keith
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Unread 09-09-2004, 08:53 AM   #8
bbcamp
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No, Keith, your shower doorway doesn't need a header (if I understand you correctly). In fact, there is an advantage of leaving space above the door to the ceiling open. It allows for better air circulation and allows your shower to dry out faster between uses. As we all know, a dry shower doesn't stink.
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Unread 09-09-2004, 08:59 AM   #9
kailor
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Thanks Bob.
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Unread 09-09-2004, 11:30 AM   #10
kailor
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When does floor leveling come into play?

Is floor leveling compound used on top of cbu? When?

Thanks, Keith
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Unread 09-09-2004, 07:38 PM   #11
John Bridge
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You might want to use a little thin set Keith. What's the probem?
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Unread 09-10-2004, 07:31 AM   #12
kailor
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Floor not level

I did a dry fit of the whirlpool tub, and from one end to another (length wise)was about 1" to 1.5" out of level. This BAD spot is NOT indicative of the entire floor. This spot just seems to be confined to this particular corner of the bathroom. Therefore, I need to do some leveling. My question is:

After the whirpool is set in a mortar bed, At what point in the entire tiling process do I level this SPOT and what material would I use to accomplish this leveling?

Thanks, Keith
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Unread 09-10-2004, 07:08 PM   #13
John Bridge
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That much, eh? I think you can use a slc. It will bond to cbu just like it bonds to concrete. I'm not really qulified to instruct you, though. I've never used the stuff.
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Unread 09-10-2004, 07:17 PM   #14
jadnashua
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Most SLC's are not supposed to be used in the thickness you need. Ardex can be. To save some money on the stuff, when it is this thick, you can use some aggragate to help fill it in - most brands can be that thick, if you use aggragate, but check carefully. Now, this is from reading the info; I'm about to use SLC for the first time tomorrow. It's been a long time in coming - I've been somewhat apprehensive as I've got a larger area to do. I don't think I'd feel that way with a small area. You'll need some primer when putting this stuff over plywood. Special stuff, and not cheap. Probably cheaper to use a mortor bed? Would that work? Since it is a small area, I'm not sure. The primer you are supposed to use only comes in gallons for the slc (or larger). Far more than you need, and as I said, fairly expensive.
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Unread 09-10-2004, 08:23 PM   #15
dreamer
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Keith,

Is the whirlpool tub going to be surrounded by a platform ? Or will the floor under it be exposed somehow ? I can't picture that. If that area of floor will be hidden under the tub and platform, do you need to worry about it ?

You mention "after the whirlpool is set in a mortar bed", but that seems too late to solve the problem if it really needs to be solved. Could the mortar that you are setting the whirlpool in solve the problem by itself ?
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