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Unread 04-27-2020, 01:31 PM   #1
carsonsig
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No flange tub... how to Kerdi?

I have a 70s tub/shower. I took out the mortar bed tile and lathe... what a PITA!

Now I am gonna kerdi it... and do new tile... but the tub has no real flange to speak of. More like a ramp. how to butt up against or place the kerdi board?

if I try and put the ramp behind the kerdi board, it will angle out significantly at the bottom.
I am currently leaning towards sitting kerdi on the top lip and then either silicone the gap at the end, or kerdi fix and kerdi banding the gap to the kerdi board... thoughts?

Drywall chunk for thickness reference
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Unread 04-27-2020, 01:57 PM   #2
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Hi Carson, welcome.

I'd hold the Kerdi board to about 1/8" above the tub lip and then silicone or Kerdi Fix the gap. Then tile and silicone that gap. You might even back bevel the rear of the Kerdi board so it will reach closer to the tub deck, but from the looks of your mock-up with drywall you won't need to.

I don't think you'll be able to get a sharp enough crease in Kerdi band to allow it to make the corner from the wall to the tub lip so you can get Kerdi fix under the little flap, and still be hidden by the wall tile. But then again, I've not tried.
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Unread 04-27-2020, 02:10 PM   #3
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this is my current best thought too. I am thinking I am going to block the rest of the perimeter in between the studs, then hold the kerdi board the 1/8. THen I will have a nice solid area to kerdi fix-> band to and then tile and silicone the gap as usual to the tub deck/ tile junction
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Unread 04-27-2020, 03:46 PM   #4
jadnashua
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Clean the edge of the tub well first, but hold the KerdiBOard slightly above the rim, use thinset on the Kerdiband where it will attach to the board, and a bead of KerdiFix on the tub edge, and carefully embed the band into the sealant like they show on one of their videos.

If you want to avoid silicon entirely, consider using profiles at the tub edge and wall corners.
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Unread 04-29-2020, 10:00 PM   #5
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Curing time versabond on kerdi board?

Did my first kerdi board shower over tub alcove today. Got the board up with some learning curve on the valve wall... Started doing my seams and corners... got better as I went... of COURSE ran out of band with TWO screws left to do...

My question is... (I read dozens of posts... but answers were 12 hours to 2 weeks!)

I used kerdi fix on gaps where kerdi board and drywall met.. and the tub flange joint, then versabond for all band work.

How long to let it set/cure before tiling? I can do other things while I wait... floors, base, vanity plumbing and install etc... But I want an answer when the Fuhrer (wife) asks when I can tile it.

Also, using versabond for my 3x12 tile install in same shower... I assume I can do next day grout? Appreciate all your help!
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Unread 04-29-2020, 11:03 PM   #6
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Hi, Carson.

No need to wait for the Versabind at all. You can immediately begin. The KerdiFix cures at a rate of 1/8” per day from each side inward. Depending on the application thickness and what’s exposed, that equates to 2-3 days...based on what you’ve described. If I were you, I’d probably start your tiling whenever it’s convenient and simply leave the KerdiFix areas until last.

As far as grouting, you can do it the next day. But do make sure all the tile is positioned the way you want it before rushing to grout.

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Unread 04-29-2020, 11:18 PM   #7
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The kerdi fix is all behind band. On the tub to board transition. My next 48 hours is basically toast anyway. So no problem waiting.


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Unread 04-29-2020, 11:25 PM   #8
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My main concern now is that when installing. I left this gap at the kerdi to ceiling transition. I must have been hurrying. Maybe3/8 or so.

Thoughts? Using 3x12 subway. Tiling to ceiling. Was planning to leave 1/8 ish gap and caulk when finished. Best idea I have besides adding a sliver of kerdi is to just mud it in to fill it a bit when I lay tile. It is fully backed by 2x4s in ceiling and wall framing


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Unread 04-29-2020, 11:25 PM   #9
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Unread 04-29-2020, 11:29 PM   #10
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At the ceiling, I’d leave a tile gap and caulk it as you describe. Unfortunately, this is meeting a painted surface, so you’re forced to using a paintable latex caulk. They aren’t nearly as flexible as 100% silicone.

Be sure to plan out how much of a tile is going to be up at that top row and adjust the starting row height accordingly. The last thing you need is to get up to the top row to discover, too late, that it’ll be a little narrow sliver. It’s helpful to mock up tile on a flat surface with the exact grout spacing to make something of a “story stick” so you can accurately plan the layout on the wall and know what height to start your bottom row at.

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Unread 04-29-2020, 11:31 PM   #11
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Thanks toolguy kg

What about that gap between kerdi and ceiling? For behind the tile..? Just fill with mud?


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Unread 04-29-2020, 11:41 PM   #12
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Filling that gap between the KerdiBOARD and the ceiling won’t be very strong with mud in it. If it was a strong joint, it might affect where the expansion and contraction movement of the tiles would manifest itself. But since it’s not, the movement is more likely to occur there, hence the need for flexible caulk between the tile and ceiling. But latex isn’t as flexible as the 100% silicone you might be using at the other tile-to-tile or tile-to-tub joints, so the ceiling caulk might crack and need a touch-up down the road.

It won’t hurt to fill it, but I don’t see much strength or benefit to doing so.

P.S. Was the house built in 1990?

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Unread 04-29-2020, 11:50 PM   #13
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Understood. I am planning to caulk the tile to ceiling junction for sure. I just didn’t know how to handle that gap. Don’t want to leave a void behind the tile. A full tile would be like 80% on kerdi board. So not going anywhere.

But if the wall height leaves me a smaller tile. Could be an issue.... my thought anyway.

What is the best way to ensure I don’t have a sliver at the top..? I had read that always start with that level row of full tile at the tub and go up. Leaving cuts to the top. Out of view.

Other designs I would use that accent strip to guarantee full tile. But wife nixxed that


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Unread 04-29-2020, 11:50 PM   #14
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No. Like mid 70s. Why?


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Unread 04-29-2020, 11:53 PM   #15
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I was guessing because of the knock-down texture. Is that new, or has it been textured for awhile?

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