Kerdi-Board/Tub Question

[RobinSue]

First of all, thank you so much for sharing your knowledge. I've gotten so much good information here for our projects!
But here's a question I haven't been able to find the answer for, maybe because I don't really know the right terms for searching. So I apologize if it's been covered before!

We're re-doing the shower/tub part of our 60's bathroom because it leaked (of course). Hubby took it down to the studs and it's my job to install the kerdi-board and re-tile. I've attached lath strips to the studs to make up the difference between the old 3/4 wall and the 1/2 in. k-board.

Here's the question. The tub doesn't have a flange, but it does have kind of a lip. It is about 3/8 in. high and 3/8 in. wide--then it slopes down to the tub deck. I'll try to upload my simple drawing.
So do I put the kerdi-board right on top of the lip--so that the bottom of the board rest on/touches the top of the lip? There will still be a small gap where the k-board overhangs the where the lip slopes downward. Or do I install it so that there is a 1/4 gap between the bottom of the board and the top of the lip?

I do intend to fill any gap with kerdi-fix and put kerdi-band over it, as Schluter's instructions say.
Any help would be so much appreciated!

[Carbidetooth]

I'd land the K-Board directly on the tub. If you're using Kerdi Band at that juncture, no real need to caulk board to tub, but no harm either.

[RobinSue]

Thanks! That's what I'll do then.

[t2jeff]

Per the direction of the pro's here, I shimmed me kerdiboard out in front of my "flange". My tub had the same flange as yours. Here is a link to my thread that handled with the same situation (with pics).

https://www.johnbridge.com/vbulletin...118705&page=17

I also used kerdi fix between the tub and the kerdiboard with backer rod as mentioned in the thread. Good luck!

Jeff

[RobinSue]

Thanks, that puts a little different spin on it. I'll spend a little more time on that post and see how that would work for my situation.

I had emailed Schluter, and they finally responded today, but didn't give me any real help. They suggested that I contact the tub manufacturer. Maybe I didn't make it clear that my tub is nearly 60 year old!

[t2jeff]

Check out page 19, post # 274. That pretty much captures what I did with the addition of the filler rod behind the kerdifix. Made sense to me to shim out the kerdiboard and drop it below the top surface of the flange, even though there wasn't much of a flange to begin with......

[RobinSue]

Jeff--wow! That's a great thread, and it looks like you did a beautiful job on that remodel. You've asked a lot of the questions I know I'll run into. I've been reading and re-reading it. Thank you!

So...I can't bring the kerdi board that far forward--I have to match up to the tiles on the walls adjacent. The bottom half of the whole bathroom is tiled, in other words. I will leave a 1/8 gap between the tub and board, and the front of the board will end up about 1/8 in. in front of the lip, but that leaves a very small gap between tub deck and board--probably not enough for any rod.

Questions:
I had planned to embed k-band over the board to tub connection, per Schluter instructions, but it seems like the pros here don't advise that. Is it just over-kill? Cause I don't mind a little over-kill!

If I'm reading correctly, you ran into some trouble with the silicone around the tub. Did you have better results the second time? Do you have any insights there?

Finally, how do you feel about the profile you used? I'm thinking about using Schluter's tub profile dilex-as, which supposedly eliminates caulking.
......
It does seem like there is more than one way to do this, which I hope increases my chances of doing it right...

[t2jeff]

As explained to me, the kerdiband from the board to the tub wasn't needed. I ordered some small backer rod online that fit into my small gap (You should be able to find something that fits into you 1/8" gap, it compresses easily).

No better luck with the silicone the 2nd time. Was looking at it as recently as this morning. Not sure why it doesn't want to stick to the tiles. Its a visual thing, and has nothing to do with it being water tight though.......

I liked the profiles, I screwed them in place in addition to setting in thinset. I added some studs behind the wall to screw into. They give a clean, finished look. The real reason I used them was the tiles used didn't offer a short edge bull nose option.

Here is my other project thread dealing with kerdiboard (it's a shower), but has some good answers from the pros on kerdiboard questions.

https://www.johnbridge.com/vbulletin...d.php?t=121354

Good luck!