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Unread 02-03-2010, 11:35 PM   #16
lbhsbz
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Damn...the moderators are quick around here...thanks for combining the threads...didn't know the rules, now I do.
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Unread 02-06-2010, 07:07 PM   #17
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Ran into a problem today...got all the hardi up yesterday, started laying tile this morning and when I got to the corner, noticed that the wall wasn't anywhere near straight. So, off came the tile, off came all the hardi and off came the paper...studs look straight.

I noticed that the backside of the hardi is blown out about a 1/4"-3/8" at every screw hole. I'm using the green screws made for hardi with the serrations under the heads. What am I missing here? Do I have to pre-drill and countersink my holes? The hardi wasn't even sitting against the studs.
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Unread 02-08-2010, 09:28 AM   #18
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I'm wondering if the screwdriver you are using is strong enough? I've noticed that the initial screwing of the hardi can cause it to "tent" up on the screw, but then the last little bit of power screwing strips the threading of the hardi as it countersinks the screws. I have seen, however, some friends using some weak battery powered cordless drivers that don't seem to have the oompf necessary for the last bit. There's always a bit of "hardi fluff" scratched up around the countersunk screw head when I'm done screwing it in. I use a triple-gear reduced plug-in drill (the same one I use to mix thinset) to drive the screws--when I get near the bottom (maybe 1/8" from countersunk), I just let the momentum from the motor countersink the bit the rest of the way. If you go too far with a powerful driver, then the screw will just pop through--you don't want that either.

Oh, you also need the longer screws for 1/2" hardi and studs. Hardi screws come in two lengths.

I'd give it a dry run on a practice stud and try to underscrew, perfectly counersink, and overscrew a few screws, just so you know how the right ones feel. You'll be able to see and feel the balance between stripping the hole and pulling the hardi onto the studs versus overscrewing the screw and popping it through.
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Unread 02-08-2010, 10:39 AM   #19
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Thanks Jeff, I'm using a good 18V drill that, if I can keep the bit in the screw, will pull it clean through the hardi. I dunno.

I pulled it all down, scraped off the tents with a spackle knife and put it back up. I also installed a bunch of extra screws but I predrilled/countersunk all of those holes and things seem straight. I got about 4 courses of tile up yesterday and spent the rest of the night (till midnight) polishing the edges.

I bought one of those multicolored velcro diamond pad sets that goes from 50 to 6000 grit. I gutted a dead angle grinder and stuck the arbor in my makita angle drill which turns about 2400 RPMs. The pads work great until you get to 1500, then it burns the tile like crazy, so I gotta get the spray bottle in one hand and the grinder in the other for the last 3 pads and do them wet...then it works great.

I'll post pictures when I'm all done...gotta hurry. Wifey comes home on Wed and I'm sure will want a shower, so it's gonna be a long night....or I'll have to tape up plastic or something LOL.
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Unread 02-08-2010, 10:43 AM   #20
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Makita makes and excellent variable speed grinder. Better for the higher grits.
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Unread 02-08-2010, 11:47 AM   #21
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Yeah...I know about the variable speed grinders...but....

The tub that I thought would be $300 ended up being $800

The Granite that I figured would be $200-$300 ended up being $700

....and well, you know how it goes, so we're a bit over budget as it sits. I had the 2400 RPM angle drill, which works fine if I keep the finer pads wet. I probably won't do another tile job for atleast 5 years (hopefully) so I couldn't really justify spending much more money....since I don't have much more money.

Thanks for the help once again.
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Unread 02-08-2010, 12:07 PM   #22
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Variable speed controller for your grinder.
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Unread 02-10-2010, 11:59 AM   #23
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OK...got the majority of it done...here's some pics. I used Aquabar paper as my moisture barrier, and all my seems are sealed with a polyurethane mastic type goo. !/2" (really 0.400") Hardibacker over the paper and Siena M100 thinset morter. Considering this was my first ever experience setting tile, I think it came out pretty damn good. Note to other tile newbies....don't pick 12" tiles on a wall with 1/16" grout lines as your "learning project"...it's a pain in the butt....especially with $1.80/ft tiles that aren't square or flat..LOL. The floor should be a walk in the park after this surround.

The old tub coming out....notice the lack of any substantial floor underneith it.



Finished...I thought I'd try my luck at mitering the joints at the top of the window....and it worked out well...first shot





This shows the color of the tile better...




I'm leaving the top course out until I get the ceiling painted...but I'm gonna try and grout whats there tonight.

Is there gonna be any problem with going back in a week and grouting the top course?
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Unread 02-10-2010, 12:13 PM   #24
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Your grout color may not be consistant. Paint, set the tile, then grout.
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Unread 02-10-2010, 12:15 PM   #25
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Hmm..makes sense.

Any idea's how to take a shower before grout? (the wifey is coming home tonight)...tape all my seams for time being?
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Unread 02-10-2010, 12:20 PM   #26
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You can grout the floor now. You can then cover the walls with plastic sheets when she showers.

The main thing is to keep any soap scum, body lotions, etc out of the grout lines or you may have problems with your grout later.
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Unread 02-10-2010, 12:32 PM   #27
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The floor isn't in yet...just the subfloor. Guess I'll do some painting tonight and see if I can keep the place cleaner than I did when I was playing with thinset ..LOL.
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Unread 02-10-2010, 01:52 PM   #28
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Shower floor. You need to grout the shower floor before you use it. That's where all the gunk will collect.
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Unread 02-10-2010, 02:01 PM   #29
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Oh...It's a tub...no floor to grout. I'll still tape/plastic off the walls though...wifey gets soap/hair goo everywhere.
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Unread 02-10-2010, 02:04 PM   #30
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