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Unread 05-13-2018, 06:33 PM   #1
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Kneewall stability to support a shower door.

We are doing a tile at a job and the customer wants to hang a shower door from the 6' knee wall. You can see from the picture below. I still have time to do whatever is necessary to be able to support the door. I have the ability to go taller or shrink the entrance if there is something I can add for stability.

Additional things I plan to do.
1) Add a sheet of 5/8" ply to the outside to add stability. Glue and screw to studs. Also run all the way to the floor and glue the thin side.
2) Add redheads to the bottom plate so I can bolt to the slab. (Currently only set with tapcons)

Any other recommendations? What are your thoughts?

We also will have a large corner bench in the area where the outside wall meets the kneewall.

Thanks in advance.

Edit: I have no idea why the pictures are turned sideways. They are not like that on my phone or computer. Sorry....
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Unread 05-13-2018, 07:56 PM   #2
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I built a house a while back and the framers left a similar wall made from 2x4s. I ripped it out and replaced it with 4x8x16 block. I epoxied some rebar into the concrete and filled the empty cells after. Rock solid. Could hang a swinging truck. You could use block for the bench too.
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Unread 05-13-2018, 08:00 PM   #3
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I would add a rectangular steel post maybe 60" tall with a flange welded on the bottom, and anchor it thru that bottom plate with 2 x6" concrete anchors. Maybe 6" in from the free end of the wall.Tie that all together, and it will be rock solid.
Jeff, Retired electrician
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Unread 05-13-2018, 10:36 PM   #4
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If you have the ability to go taller, then easiest would be extend your triple 2x4 post up to the ceiling.

If you can't go to the ceiling, both of the previous suggestions are reasonable. If you have to stick with wood framing, then you can try precompressing your wood post. The main concern is movement out of plane at the top unsupported corner. If the post is precompressed, then when you try to push the top inward, say, the inward bottom corner is already in good contact with the plate/slab, and the precompression resists lifting of the outward bottom corner.

To precompress the post, you need a tension connection from the top of the post to the slab. E.g. epoxy some threaded rod into the slab through the plate alongside the post, then attach a hold-down to the top of the post and run the threaded rod through the hold-down. Or just run it through the top plate and a big plate washer. The connection of the post to the adjoining knee wall should restrain the post from buckling.

Cheers, Wayne
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