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Unread 09-05-2018, 05:39 AM   #31
big2bird
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Vanity top substrate for tile

My plan is a double layer of 3/4" A/C plywood with 1/4" hardie on top, then Red Guard. Is this a good choice? What would you do? Large format porcelain is the tile.
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Unread 09-05-2018, 08:34 AM   #32
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Your primary considerations with that setup will be ensuring your plumbing fixtures have sufficient dimensions for mounting if they are to be deck mounted rather than mounted on the lavatory.

If lavatory mounted, you'll want to ensure that the lavatory mounting clamp screws are of sufficient length.

You'll also want to consider how you intend to create the front edge of your tile top. The plywood edges are sometimes difficult to prepare for a ceramic tile installation.

You'll want to orient the plywood with the strength axis perpendicular to the front of that vanity we see in the photo.

My opinion; worth price charged.
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Unread 09-05-2018, 08:52 AM   #33
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Thank you CX. The Kohler sink drops in from the top, and is held by caulk. The faucet sits on it's rim, so I foresee no issues there.

6 years ago I did the other vanity this way, and it is issue free.The red guard gave great adhesion to the bull nose edging, and the thickness gave good purchase for the tile.Name:  shower 2 002.jpg
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Unread 09-05-2018, 09:06 AM   #34
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Well, then, do it again, say I.
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Unread 09-05-2018, 09:38 AM   #35
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Out of curiosity, I have some 1/2" Kerdi board left over. Could I use that for one layer of plywood? Just askin..........
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Unread 09-05-2018, 10:05 AM   #36
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Can if you like, but it provides nothing in the way of structural value.

Lots of people use a single layer of nominal 3/4-inch plywood for their vanity tops, but I don't recommend it unless you're doing a mud bed on top of it. Second layer of plywood needn't necessarily be 3/4-inch, but I do recommend a second layer.

My opinion; worth price charged.
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Unread 09-05-2018, 04:29 PM   #37
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CX, I have to give it a try. I did the tub surround in Kerdi Board, so I have the feel for it now. If I Bond it with All Set, and Kerdi band the edges and the back splash, that sounds kinda goof proof. It would help my build confidence doing the vanity tile first.
I might let in some braces below first to stiffen the plywood.
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Unread 09-11-2018, 09:01 PM   #38
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Getting ready to attack this. What is the best way to provide some weep holes?
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Unread 09-12-2018, 04:51 PM   #39
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Weep holes for what? Did I miss something?
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Unread 09-13-2018, 07:45 AM   #40
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Paul, Don't I need to provide a way for any water to escape from behind the tile? If I silicone around the tub rim, where would any trapped water get out?
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Unread 09-13-2018, 08:16 AM   #41
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I think generally if the wall is truly waterproof (as it should be with kerdi) then nothing is getting back there that would need to escape. Which is different than a more traditional shower wall where perhaps you have a vapor barrier behind some cement board and any water/moisture getting past the cement board would hit the vapor barrier, go down and back into the tub.

As an aside, and I'm not sure what size tile you're using, just pay some attention when you tile. I find (in my so very limited experience) that kerdi band, corners, kerdi overlaps and patches for board etc can project through the tile slightly. So small shiny mosaic may try to contour around the unevenness whereas some 12x24 won't matter. Nothing major, just keep an eye out for it.
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Unread 09-13-2018, 08:51 AM   #42
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workhurts, good point. I saw that coming, so I screeded the niche where the mosaic goes to get a level surface. The balance is 12x24.
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Unread 09-13-2018, 05:12 PM   #43
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I disagree, Ali. Actually, the problem with moisture collecting at the bottom of tile walls can be exacerbated by the use of a direct bonded waterproofing membrane behind the tile as opposed to the more traditional moisture barrier behind mud or CBU walls.

The best defense is actually meeting the required 95 percent thinset mortar coverage on the back of each tile in your walls, but there might still be some moisture migration and collection at the bottom of the walls. And less mortar coverage is likely to result in more of that problem.

I'd still favor some weep holes be left if you use a flexible sealant between the bottom of the wall tiles and the top of your tub.

My opinion; worth price charged.
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Unread 09-13-2018, 06:06 PM   #44
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Hey CX. I'll defer to you on this one. Are you talking about the moisture that goes through the tile and grout and down the membrane? Would you recommend doing the same in a shower with a Kerdi floor? Leaving weep holes at the floor to wall caulked gap?
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Unread 09-13-2018, 08:07 PM   #45
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I suppose you could, but I'd still recommend as close to 100 percent thinset mortar coverage as you can get on the walls in that application, Ali, especially when using a direct bonded waterproofing membrane for the receptor.

The big difference is that in the tub surround there is no place at all for any gravity fed moisture to go when it gets to the tub. In theory, at least, the same moisture in the shower walls could leach into the thinset mortar under the floor tiles, which would aid in evaporation.

In reality, in a direct bonded waterproofed shower you would experience the very same water collection and weeping at the bottom of the walls as you see in a tub surround if there is inadequate mortar coverage on the back of the wall tiles. The water will leak out near the bottom of the walls somewhere in that case, just as it's likely to in a tub surround. May not happen for a year or so, but when it starts it won't stop.

Traditionally built showers were much more forgiving in that regard.

I know this from personal experience, unfortunately.

My opinion; worth price charged.
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