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Old 06-03-2018, 02:50 PM   #196
rmckee84
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If you're having that much trouble just use tape to tape off the joints...
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Old 06-03-2018, 09:15 PM   #197
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Yes! Did you not use the tape?
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Old 06-04-2018, 03:15 AM   #198
Steve in Land O Lakes
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Wolfgang I started to but the tape lines were not perfect and between curb lines ...

I started setting up the blue tape. But by the third joint of taping I saw the tape itself wasn't perfect. The joint width varied and between the main lines and the seat and the curb with its slight overhang outside and inside the shower I questioned myself about the tape.

The walls are not perfect. The tile setting is not perfect. The tile have texture and are not rectified.

I believe the tooling aid I used was a major contributor to the problem. It has a perfectl 90 degree angle with dead square sides about an inch and a half long with a rubber coated edge. As soon as the tool ran up against a portion of the corner joint that wasn't square, the edges caught.

In retrospect I think the finger would be infinitely better that any of the squared up caulking tools.

The caulk, Mapesil, started to skin over in 5 to 6 minutes!

The removal of the tape adds more to the timline And as i said wouldnt have yielded a bang on straight line, because the tape itself wasn't perfectly straight. ( my lack of expertise in setting up the tape lines.

To add to the fray there are a couple of 1/8" gaps in a few rows at the corner. When setting the tiles I assumed (LOL) they wouldn't be an issue because the caulk would fill and cover then... It will but it forces me to favor the side wall portion of the corner joints when placing the caulk gun on the joint.

As I wrote I will try using the finger to tool and the ammonia free foaming glass cleaner as a lubricant (instead of the denatured alcohol). Failing that I might switch to the Mapei Keracolor Caulk. Also color matched, but not 100% silicone...
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Old 06-04-2018, 05:35 AM   #199
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I second the use of blue tape. I use a lot of it when I silicone.

For any joint, tape off both sides, and use shorter lengths if needed to gradually transition across any irregularities in joint width or “stair-steps” in the tiles. You don’t need to use one long piece the entire length of the joint, although the tape can be bent to some degree to follow gradual contours. A consistent taped-off width is key, even if that means the tape goes right to the tile edge in some areas, and leaves a sliver of tile exposed in others.

In corners, get a square edged margin trowel or drywall taping knife to get the tape cut clean and square.

My process is

1. Tape off joints, working from the shower pan to the ceiling. I’ll then silicone in the reverse order that I taped so I pull off the topmost layer of tape
2. Start at the ceiling, do *one* joint at a time
3. Fiill joint with silicone
4. Wet finger with soapy water (Dawn dish detergent or similar) to tool joint and remove excess. If any areas are low, add more silicone and re-tool.
5. Pull off tape on both sides. This rises a little lip on both sides of previously tooled joint
6. Re-wet finger with soapy water and lightly re-tool joints. Work a few inches at a time, don’t try to do long lengths. Light touch, as you should have gotten most excess off in step 4. Here you’re simply gently smoothing things backs down. Clean your finger frequently so any buildup doesn’t ruin the joint.

In corners, I’ll squeeze a little extra drop there and kind of press it in with the tip of my finger. It makes for a slightly more rounded look.

And yes, Mapesil skins over quick and doesn’t seem to tool as nicely as Latasil, which is a lot looser.
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Old 06-04-2018, 06:02 AM   #200
Steve in Land O Lakes
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Lou thanks for taking the time to reply...

Agree with all you said. But consider, the stuff was beginning to skin over in about 5-6 minutes...

It wasn't the laying down of my line that was the most problematic; it was the inability to tool the caulk smoothly. The tool I was using to try to work the bead into a finished caulk line would not work in my situation. Add the time for tape removal and tooling before tape is removed and tooling again after tape is removes all but guarantees I have line ends that have skinned over before I get to add the next line extension (which means I will have fresh silicone next to partially dry silicone yielding a line that won't bond well).

The inability to tool easily and the accepted negative that silicone will only bond to silicone when the two parts you want to join or extend are both wet, are the problems...

I am about to call Mapei's Help Line (8 am EST) to see if they have some suggestions.
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Old 06-04-2018, 10:33 AM   #201
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Steve, you are even more afraid of silicone than I am.
Regarding the skinning over, I remove excess silicone when I finger-tool the bead so that at the edge where the painter's tape meets the silicone there is not much material that could be pulled off when removing the tape.

Even if it doesn't look perfect, let it cure and then trim it with a blade. The blade has done wonders for me. As long as it is fully inside the joint, don't worry about adhesion. Also, this silicone does nothing but provide a filler for those areas so that dirt cannot get in (as you know anyway).

Once you've trimmed a bead with your finger, avoid going back to smooth out sections. This will make things worse usually.

Does the Mapesil have the vinegar smell? If so, I know those acetic acid silicones usually skin over faster than the other kind. I know it's a pain. When pulling off the tape, you could have a helper hold open a garbage bag to dispose of them quickly so that you can move on. It also helps to create little tabs in the tape where you can quickly pull it off without fumbling for a starting point.

Even though the silicone is a pain, I wouldn't use anything but 100% silicone. The other stuff will shrink and crack. There is no comparison.
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Old 06-04-2018, 11:29 AM   #202
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Thanks to all, update on Silicone Caulk...

Tried caulking with the Mapesil one more time but remembered what my Brother-in-law said about the blue tape. He said he switched to the Green Tape a long time ago and it was much better at placing and holding.
So I redid the guide lines with the Green Frog tape (that took 90 minutes and had me contorted every way but upside down on the shower floor), then laid the bead down for the whole inside of the Shower. That only took 6 or 7 minutes.
Then sprayed it all with a mist of Denatured alcohol (same as I had done initially). But the Green Tape held infinity better than the blue tape. As soon as I was done spraying all the beads I ran my index finger over the whole thing.; wiping the excess off my finger frequently with alcohol soaked paper towels. Maybe another 5 or 6 minutes. As soon as I was done with the wipe/tooling I started pulling the tape off. Came out pretty good, not perfect, but certainly acceptable. Called Mapei this morning tech was very helpful. He walked me through how he would do the caulking, step by step. Happy Camper
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Old 06-07-2018, 04:02 PM   #203
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Finishing up, question on corner shelf...

Caulk all done, grout all cleaned up.
Door glass is being ordered.

The corner shelf is going up now. I want to use the install method where you embed some stainless steel washers into the sides of the shelf (two on each side). The washers just smaller than a quarter; epoxied halfway into a channel cut into the shelf. The other half gets stuck into a carved out spaces in the grout line; with silicone along the back of side edges (except where the epoxy is). My grout lines are pretty good, should be no issues. After the epoxy is dry I will bead Mapesil along the top edge of the shelf.

My question is what would you use to cut the channel in this shelf (see picture). Its made of resin, bought it at Floor and Decor. I need to slice in 4 cuts, two on each side about 3/8" or so deep.

I have an angle grinder (with a selection of disks including a continuous rim diamond wheel). I have a Multi-tool with diamond blades.

I do not have a little Dremel (burned it out long ago). Do you think the angle grinder or the multi-tool would work? I do not want to crack or melt this thing.

I will take out the spaces in the grout line by hand with a little grout saw...
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Old 06-08-2018, 09:16 AM   #204
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Shelf update...

I used the Multi-tool to cut out the notches in the Resin corner shelf.

Nasty resin dust, but the slots are as good as I could hope for using that tool. I don't think it would have been easy to cut perfect slots no matter what kind of tool I would have used.

I have some epoxy putty called Milliput... It comes from the UK. I am thinking of filling the entire slot with it; pressing it into the void completely. Then I will be able to wedge the stainless steel washers in the filled slots and have some "Working Time" to get the washers sitting as level as I can get them. Plus once I have them sitting in the orientation I want. the Milliput will hold them there in place as it cures.

Its solid as a rock in about 12 to 16 hours, completely waterproof.

I won't use that on the edge that goes in the grout line. There I will use a quick setting epoxy like a Loctite or something similar.
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Old 06-10-2018, 07:04 AM   #205
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Shelf came out nice...

The "Biscuit Install" of the shelf (using stainless steel washers) came out very nice.

Waiting on the door glass...
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