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Unread 02-29-2016, 06:00 PM   #1
BarbaraB
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2 x 4 vertical and horizontal for level

We are at the point of dry laying our tile. before we begin actual installation, MANY advice screwing a 2 x 4 to help keep tiles straight and/or level. Putting screws thru the redgard seems counter intuitive to EVERYTHING we have done to waterproof. Are we really supposed to do that?

Also, we have read, as one option, to lay a row of tile horizontally and allow to partially dry for stability as the next rows are laid. (Seems a better way to go because there wouldn't be screws thru the waterproofing.)

Should we begin tiling w/a vertical or horizontal row? Should we allow time for thin set to dry(or partially dry?) on the starting horizontal row?
Thanx in advance.
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Unread 02-29-2016, 07:10 PM   #2
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Welcome, Barbara.

I wouldn't recommend using a 2x4 as a ledger board for your starting row, but you can certainly fasten a ledger to your Kerdied walls so long as you properly patch the holes later.

I prefer 5 1/2" or 6" rips of half-inch plywood for such ledgers so if you put your fasteners in the center or lower you have room for a larger than 4" patch below my set tiles when using sheet membranes such as Kerdi or USG Shower Membrane. You can patch your holes with more RedGard if that's what you're using as your wall waterproofing.

You can certainly shim your first row of tile directly above your shower floor if you prefer. I rarely even set my drain until my walls and ceilings are at least tiled when doing a direct bonded waterproofing membrane shower, so I always start my walls on a ledger. There is no need to allow the first row to cure before setting the rows above.

All entirely dealer's choice.

My opinion; worth price charged.
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Unread 03-06-2016, 06:32 PM   #3
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Thank you so much!
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Unread 03-12-2016, 03:20 PM   #4
BarbaraB
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Grouting this multi surface accent tile

Any advice, tips or tricks for grouting this accent tile.
(I hope the photo comes through when you select the attached below)
thanks,
Barbara
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Unread 03-12-2016, 03:47 PM   #5
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You're going to be using your hands a lot to get grout into the spaces where the grout float won't easily reach, particularly around the pencil liner. Just try to scrape away any excess to make cleanup easier on yourself.
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Unread 03-14-2016, 10:59 AM   #6
BarbaraB
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That's the only way I could think to get grout in between those faceted tiles w/out breaking them. Thanx a bun for confirming!
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Unread 04-02-2016, 03:51 PM   #7
BarbaraB
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Tiling above and below accent row

Our accent tile requires us to cut the width of our field tile installed under it. See attachment. Should we cut the tile the width of tile above it to match or just continue w/full tile?
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Unread 04-02-2016, 03:54 PM   #8
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Whatever the check writer wants.
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Unread 04-02-2016, 05:15 PM   #9
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I'd make it match so it would look symmetrical.
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Unread 04-03-2016, 05:55 AM   #10
BarbaraB
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Thanks guys! Again, I kindof knew it would be a discretion decision. As the hubs and I discussed this "dilemma" we have learned yet another lesson re;tiling-map out field tiles below the accent row to possibly adjust the bottom row not being a full tile( as long as it's not too small a piece of course). We have figured out the three rules of tiling: Planning, planning, planning.
PS I grouted the accent tile-this girl LUHUVS grouting. We bought a more flexible float and I had at it. Quite similar to frosting a cake and I love to bake. WinWin
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Unread 04-03-2016, 12:36 PM   #11
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Barbara
PS I grouted the accent tile-this girl LUHUVS grouting.
You can have all of that work you want as far as I'm concerned. Least favorite part of the job for me.
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