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Unread 09-23-2004, 12:03 PM   #1
Steve C.
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Bathroom Project with Rialto Tiles and Hardibacker

I've read a lot about the Rialto tiles and have some questions. I did my kitchen with 12x12s and 6x6s and I HATE the way it turned out although I love the tiles. Grout (Bone color) is way too light and the grout joints are way too wide because of the angle of the edge of tiles. Anyways, I'm getting ready to do my bathroom with the same tiles and have a couple of questions.

1. I'm using 6x6 beige on the floor and was planning on 1/8" spacing. Is this the appropriate spacing? What kind of grout should I use?

2. In the shower, I was going to use 4x4s white because that's what my wife wants. I want the 6x6s in the shower also. By the way, this is actually a new bathtub with tile on the walls. It is not a full shower with a pan. My wife wants the 1/16" spacing and I'm thinking that is too small.

Do you recommend 4x4s or 6x6s?
What spacing do you recommend?

Also, what about the "spreading of the grout" due to the angled edges?

Any advice would be greatly appreciated. I just found this site today and I'm planning on starting this weekend.

Thank you.
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Unread 09-23-2004, 01:29 PM   #2
grisby
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Steve, in my bath of Rialto tiles, 6x6 white and 6x6 beige was used on the walls with a 3/16 grout joint. Laticrete parchment colored grout was used. Go to this link http://johnbridge.com/vbulletin/show...5&page=2&pp=15 and you will see the results. I dont think the joints are too wide.
Hope this helps.
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Last edited by grisby; 09-23-2004 at 01:34 PM.
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Unread 09-23-2004, 01:31 PM   #3
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Welcome, Steve!

1) 1/8" is about as narrow as you should go for floor tiles. Any less and you could have problems with varying tile size and the flatness of the floor. Both could give you wavy groutlines or lippage. You can use unsanded or sanded grout with 1/8" lines. Sanded for larger lines, unsanded for smaller lines.

2) A lot of the 4x4s have "lugs" which are built in spacers. These will give you a 1/16" line. Go with it. The trend is towards bigger tiles, for what that's worth. Bigger tiles can get wider grout lines, too.

3) You could wash out the grout a bit more. You may not want to do this on a floor since the groutlines will catch dirt.
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Unread 09-24-2004, 08:21 AM   #4
Steve C.
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Painting Hardibacker

I'm getting ready to install the Hardibacker 500 in my bathroom. Its over a new tub. I'm either going to run the tile up to about a foot from the ceiling, or may go all the way to the ceiling. Any recommendations on what is best? Its a standard 5' tub.

If I don't go all the way to the ceiling, is it still okay to install Hardibacker all the way up, and then flow the remaining foot with drywall mud and paint? Will there be a noticeable difference from the paint on Hardibacker from the paint on the rest of the drywall? This would be easier than trying to figure out exactly where the tile is going to end....and maintains the option of tiling all the way up.

Or am I better to to my best calculation and use greenboard the remaining foot?

This is a very very very very late question as I just found this website yesterday....and as soon as I submit this post.....I'm off to the bathroom to build a recessed niche (which I never thought of until I found this website). Once the niche is done, I'm going to start hanging the Hardibacker.

Thank you very much. I'll be checking back soon.
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Unread 09-24-2004, 08:25 AM   #5
Steve C.
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Bob and Grisby,

I know I've only known you for a day now...........but you are now my 2 best friends. I've been trying to convince my wife for weeks that we don't want to use 4x4s and she wouldn't listen. Then after I showed her your posts....she went to a couple of model homes.....came home and said 6x6s are the way to go.

Although, it did suck returning all the 4x4s and buying 6x6s. Its bad enough hauling them upstairs once....but twice. If only I could have talked her into the 12x12s.

Thanks for all the help.
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Unread 09-24-2004, 09:00 AM   #6
ej
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Based on feedback from this forum, I just did this (put hardiebacker all the way up) and am unable to tell any difference between the hardiebacker or the greenboard after painting. I did, however, skim coat the hb with joint compound, and then also used a primer/sealer (not a standard primer) under the latex paint to make sure the porosity was consistent between the two materials.

Now, for some reason, I did get a hairline crack where the hardiebacker meets the drywall (taped and everything), which I can't yet explain, so make sure the edges are well supported.

(Note, I'm not an expert)
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Unread 09-24-2004, 09:50 AM   #7
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I would do it just like ej said, Steve. I can't explain the crack he got between the CBU and sheetrock. They're not sufficiently dissimilar I don't think to have caused a crack just with expansion and contraction, so I believe it must be something relating to that particular wall structure. I'd tape that joint up there (the part above the shower head betweent he CBU and sheetrock) with paper tape and sheetrock mud if I were doing it.

My opinion; worth price charged.
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Unread 09-24-2004, 07:30 PM   #8
Steve C.
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Another Hardibacker Question

I've hung all my Hardibacker 500 and now need to tape it.

1. Is there a special tape or does the 2" Fiberglass drywall tape work?
2. Do I need to tape and flow the inside corners of the Hardibacker?
3. Do I use thinset for flowing the taped joints?

Thank you.
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Unread 09-24-2004, 07:36 PM   #9
Davestone
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Yes,yes,andyes,modified thinset
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Unread 09-24-2004, 10:12 PM   #10
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I'm afixin' to pewt words in Davestone's mouth here:

1. He meant yes, there is a special tape. It's alkali resistant and will say so on the package. Sheetrock mesh tape is not suitable.

Davestone thanks me for that clarification.
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Unread 09-25-2004, 03:50 PM   #11
Steve C.
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Question Me again......Mastic or Thinset?

I'm installing 6" Rialto tiles in my shower/tub (thanks to Bob and Grisby's changing my wife's mind). It is over Hardibacker 500 1/2". I was told to use Laticrete Premium Multi-Mastic Adhesive 15. But it says on the back not use in areas subject to continuous water exposure. I also saw some multi-purpose thinset (#253) also by Laticrete. There was also a Floor-and-Wall thinset. Too many thinsets and too many different answers.

And what size trowel do you recommend for the shower? And same question for the bathroom floor?

So....please....please....rescue me so I can quit stressing over this. For the walls, what do I use? Also, on the floor (12x12 and 6x6 Rialto), what do I use?

Thanks again.............and I wish I had found this site before I tiled my kitchen. If my wife is ever gone for a few days...I'll have the air chisel out.

Last edited by Steve C.; 09-25-2004 at 03:55 PM.
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Unread 09-25-2004, 04:07 PM   #12
Davestone
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I believe for the 500, hardi recommends modified thinset. I use a 1/4 on walls, and 3/8 on floors.
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Unread 09-25-2004, 04:16 PM   #13
Steve C.
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Thanks Dave.

I see "modified thinset" a lot but haven't seen anything in the stores called that...just thinset. Is the Versabond that seems to be highly recommended in this forum considered "modified"?
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Unread 09-25-2004, 04:33 PM   #14
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Yes.
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Unread 09-25-2004, 08:15 PM   #15
Steve C.
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Spacing between edges of Hardibacker

Just got back from HD. Got the cement board tape and some versabond modified thinset. As I started to tape, I decided to re-read the Hardibacker pamphlet just for a double-check.

I left 1/8" gap in the corners, but I didn't leave any gap where I stacked the Hardibacker on top of each other. Is this critical? If so, can I just run a saw or Dremel along the seams to provide the gap so I don't have to tear it down?

Thank you.
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