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Unread 10-05-2022, 02:36 PM   #1
Bradip
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Shims

I am installing an American Standard Studio collection 60x30 acrylic tub that has a connected plywood platform underneath and 2 "rails or runners" under the plywood. The floor on the drain end of the tub is low by about 3/8. The tub itself when placed on a flat surface has a built in pitch toward the drain. I can easily level the tub by placing a couple of 1/8-1/4 strips widthwise under the runners. Just want to know if I should bring those shim strips all the way out to sit under the apron or if just shimming under the runners works fine. Tile floor
totaling about 1" will abut the apron. In any case the wood platform and runners will be seated in a mortar base. many thanks for advice.
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Unread 10-05-2022, 03:40 PM   #2
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Welcome back, Brad.

This the tub in question?
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Unread 10-05-2022, 03:46 PM   #3
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Yes thats it

Yes
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Unread 10-06-2022, 06:18 AM   #4
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It seems to me, Brad, that if you are going to set it in mortar then the strips/runners are almost irrelevant.

When you place the tub in the alcove and level it, are you saying you have 3/8th" gap between the bottom of the drain outlet and the top of the drain flange? Don't forget to factor in the gasket that goes in between. Is there no vertical wiggle room with the drain flange?
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Unread 10-06-2022, 06:43 AM   #5
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Thanks Dan.The 3/8 low is simply taking the level of the bare wood floor near the drain location with a level from back of tub to drain area. The idea was that sitting the plywood/runners on those shims ensures level without moving/jiggling the tub in the mortar, to get a better tub/mortar fit.
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Unread 10-07-2022, 08:24 AM   #6
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The mortar has a high enough viscosity that you absolutely will need to wiggle/jiggle the tub down into it and bring it to its level position. You’ll likely need to stand in the tub and shift your weight around to position the tub. You might need to do it several times. After the tub is leveled, you can throw a shim or two or three under the apron to keep it there while the mortar hardens, but isn’t usually necessary.


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Unread 10-07-2022, 10:41 AM   #7
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I might add that I would let the rim on tub be my level guide so tile can look right and good. Presumably the plywood base and rim are parallel, but I'd double check.

Do the install instructions call for a ledger in the alcove supporting rim? Even if they don't, I've been known to install supporting blocks in after the fact because, well, someone will stand on the rim sooner or later.
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Unread 10-07-2022, 04:07 PM   #8
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Shims

Thanks ToolGuy and Carbide. Appreciate your advice and envy your experience. Standing in to level etc makes sense...I would have missed that for sure. Yes, American Standard does advise/require ledger boards around the tub. Though optional as you say I would add shims under the apron after tub is level to make sure there is no flex.
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Unread 10-09-2022, 02:17 PM   #9
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Shower tile edge

What is the best way for tile and cement board to meet standard wallboard outside the shower alcove? In the past, using bull nose tiles, I have let about 2" of tile extend past the cement board and lap over the wallboard, using a bit of caulk on the outside edge. How do others do this? This time I may use an edge strip since I dont have bullnose tiles. If I use an edge strip, I might mount the edge strip on wallboard about 2" away from the cement board. Do others have a different approach? Thanks
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Unread 10-09-2022, 03:10 PM   #10
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Brad, it'll help if you'll keep all your project questions on one thread so folks can see what you're working on and what's been previously asked and answered. A moderator can give it a more generic title any time you'd like to suggest one.

What you really want is for your CBU and your waterproofing to extend a few inches beyond the face of your tub and down to the floor to be tiled in what is generally called a tub leg. Commonly the first point of failure in tub/shower installations.

How you finish the edges of the tile installation is entirely up to you and Mrs. Brad. Some folks like the newer edge profiles, some don't. Some would finish using a stone or ceramic pencil liner or similar. Some might chose a contrasting bullnose tile. Lots of options.

It's all aesthetic, except for the waterproofing, part.

My opinion; worth price charged.
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Unread 10-09-2022, 07:56 PM   #11
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Shower tile edge

Thanks for suggestions on how to post.

I dont have pictures that are useful yet.

Ill reconnect when I have that. Im not focused so much on the leg next to tub as with the entire vertical line from floor to ceiling where wall tiles end and painted wallboard begins. The rear wall of the enclosure ( the end opposite drain) is 36" wide, connecting to a wall boarded wall that continues on the same plane as the CB but outside the alcove. The question is what to do with that vertical joint floor to ceiling between CB and WB ...cover it with a slight tile overhang onto the WB or keep entire tile on the CB and spackle the joint between CB and WB ...It seems that allowing tile to overhang slightly onto the wallboard is the cleanest way to avoid an unsightly WB/CB joint...but wanted to know if others have a better approach. Thanks
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Unread 10-09-2022, 09:06 PM   #12
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As CX mentioned, it is suggested that the cement board AND waterproofing extend a few inches past the tub and to the floor. Beyond that, you can take the tile out as far as you want onto the drywall, covering that joint. IF I'm reading you right, sounds like you have 36" of cement board and a 30" tub. (on the ends of the tub, or at least one end..)

If that is correct, I would:

1) Tape that CBU to drywall joint with alkali resistant mesh tape, thin-set mortar over that joint
2) Continue whatever waterproofing method you are using to the joint.
3) Continue your tile past the joint to cover that CBU/drywall seam.

How far out you go may depend on where your tile naturally ends, or any other aesthetic factor. Same goes for your choice of edging. If you decide on an edge profile made of metal or another material, you should set that simultaneous with the last vertical row of tiles, floor to ceiling.
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Unread 10-10-2022, 05:10 AM   #13
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SHower tile edge

Thank you Snets...really appreciate that..gives me a very clear idea ..thanks for taking the time to make the details clear...yes, in this installation the cement board (GoBoard) extends about 6-8 inches beyond the tub or wet area.
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Unread 10-22-2022, 09:15 AM   #14
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Grout joint width

Wondering if there are technical reasons to prefer 1/16 vs 1/8 grout joint width on 12x24 porcelain stoneware tile for bathroom floor and wall. I'm thinking thinner grout lines mean less surface area for dirt or mold. What are you experiences/suggestions regarding choice of joint width?

Thanks
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Unread 10-22-2022, 09:23 AM   #15
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Technically, you're gonna need to let the tiles determine the smallest reasonable grout joint width, Brad. The ceramic tile industry recommendation is that the grout joint width be at least three times the difference in size between your largest and smallest tiles in your layout.

Tiles that size would need to be uncommonly well rectified to allow a 1/16th" grout joint, and even very well rectified to allow a 1/8th" joint.

You have your tiles in hand?

You have a link to the tiles in question?

My opinion; worth price charged.
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