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Unread 10-04-2022, 07:59 AM   #31
ss3964spd
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In my mind, the easiest way to think about it is you want to have the entire perimeter of each panel supported, while maintaining the 16" OC spacing, if possible. That's what I shoot for anyway.

That said, I don't know if full perimeter support is a requirement of the manufacturer of your wall board. For instance, if you have, say, 3 vertical studs spaced at 16" OC, and you install two wall board panels, one directly over another, then the resulting horizontal seam between the two panels and between the studs may not require blocking behind it. Only taping and mortaring the seam.
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Unread 10-04-2022, 01:04 PM   #32
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Well I took your advice, took down the durarock, blocked the edges and yes it made a big difference. This is my first time doing any of this stuff and what I am reading it is important that all studs are flush for tiling over durarock. As much as I’ve tried using shims, levels and straightedges there seems to be some high or low spots maybe 1/8 inch or so in variation on the other long wall which was durarocked. Should I be able to make this up with tile and thinset so the job doesn’t look like a real mess when I am done?
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Unread 10-04-2022, 04:55 PM   #33
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Depends upon your tile size and the character of your highs and lows, Mike. The ceramic tile industry's requirement for substrate flatness for tiles with no edge greater than 15 inches is no deviation from intended plane of more than 1/4" in ten feet, nor 1/16th" in one foot. Larger tiles have a more stringent requirement.

My opinion; worth price charged.
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Unread 10-06-2022, 01:22 PM   #34
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Wife wants the longer rectangular tile, I think either 12 x 18 or 12 x 24. In hindsight I with I would have put more support braces in the ceiling While it is screwed in 16” on center rafters from the light back to the back wall, there is a very slight give when you push in the center, more so as you go towards the back. Not a sag or anything as everything checks out with a level. And there is no horizontal brace at the rear, (should have thought of that before installing). Can I put something in that gap between ceiling and back wall to give support to the ceiling or you thing when the tile goes up it will provide the necessary bracing.
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Unread 10-06-2022, 02:11 PM   #35
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Ah, tiling the ceiling also. If I'm looking at it right it appears the give you mentioned is between the 16" OC rafters. Since you'll be taping and mortaring those wall to ceiling joints I think you'll be ok.

Can't use the wall tile to support the ceiling though. You must leave a movement accommodation gap between the wall tile and ceiling tile. That gap will then be filled with a flexible sealant, typically silicone caulk.
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Unread 10-06-2022, 02:54 PM   #36
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Phew! That air noise you just heard was from my sigh of relief! I will be using Kerdi on the walls up to a little over shower head, and Kerdi in the wall to wall seams. At the roof line I was going to use that alkaline mesh tape with thinset. Is that what you mean?
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Unread 10-06-2022, 03:15 PM   #37
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mike
While it is screwed in 16” on center rafters from the light back to the back wall, there is a very slight give when you push in the center,..
Your CBU is actually fastened to roof rafters in that portion, Mike, or to ceiling joists of some kind?

Yes, I think Dan was alluding to using alkali-resistant mesh tape and thinset mortar at those wall/ceiling joints. And if your wall panels are under the edges of the ceiling panels, I, too, think that will be enough support for those edges.

For those tile sizes, you'll want the walls to be very, very flat.

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Unread 10-07-2022, 06:24 AM   #38
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Thank you for your answers and help. Well, I keep telling the wife that structurally it will be better than it was before. The original tiles were small maybe 4x4 or 6x6 and I never noticed anything off looking at them. But like you said, smaller tiles are more forgiving with a wall not completely flat. I had to do a lot of shimming and adding extra wood, braces etc. to get it where I think it’s right. I tend to be a little OCD so hopefully I am being more critical of my workmanship than I should be. I will be posting some more pics after I put up my Kerdi and see what you think. On vacation this week so I got a lot done...then it’s back to weekends only. Thanks to everyone for all your help.

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Unread 10-14-2022, 06:21 PM   #39
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Just realized that when I installed the durarock wall panels they are about an inch or so off the concrete floor. I will be doing a drypack slope with 3/4” drop from wall to drain. (Roughly 3 feet from drain to farthest corner of shower). Figuring 1” height from floor to drain height and then gradual increase out to the 3/4” height against the wall, will that work being that the durarock is 1” off the floor? Will the drypack adhere to the pressure treated floor sills behind the walls...can I just pack it it behind the durarock...will this work?
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Unread 10-14-2022, 08:18 PM   #40
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Your dry-pack doesn't need to "adhere" to anything other than the concrete floor, Mike. Just pack it against whatever's behind the CBU at the bottom and you'll be fine.

My opinion; worth price charged.
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Unread 10-15-2022, 03:28 AM   #41
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Thank you !
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Unread 10-16-2022, 10:16 AM   #42
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Okay so now I guess I need some carpentry advice. I followed the original layout on the floor and only replaced some rotted wood studs in their original position. The problem I’m having is when I put up the durarock on the studs of the front shower wall and butt it up as far as I can go against the stud that is angled, that only leaves about an inch or so on that angled stud to secure a strip of durarock. Seems like that would be rough cutting and installing. If I slide the main wall piece back, and slide the durarock on the angled piece back in farther behind the main piece, I have a problem at the bottom, because of the bottom sill angle. Should I cut that off? Also, if I do it that way, it leaves a pretty ugly gap between the durarock panels that I am not sure is the best thing considering this is where the original problem was at. If I just run the durarock all the way to the corner edge of the angled stud, then it is not flat against the wall and could not be attached to other studs. Not sure how to proceed at this point. Thx
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Unread 10-16-2022, 12:26 PM   #43
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How 'bout if you just add another stud or two to facilitate fastening a larger piece of Durock (we are talking about USG Durock and not something called durarock not known to me, yes?) to that short stub of wall?
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Unread 10-16-2022, 01:34 PM   #44
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Yes, USG Durock. Okay you mean like this? If so, would it be better to slide the piece that goes over that stud up behind the large wall panel or instead have them just meet end to end? Depending on which way you go, some part of the bottom of the sill will not be covered by Durock which I “assume “ would be ok.. You think that wierd inside angle will give this first time tiler fits? LOL!
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Unread 10-16-2022, 01:41 PM   #45
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Mike
Depending on which way you go, some part of the bottom of the sill will not be covered by Durock...
Por que?

You better hope it won't be a problem on accounta you're gonna have some other inside corners in there, eh?
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