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Unread 09-04-2022, 09:57 AM   #1
DIYWithoutAGuy
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Shower Floor Tile Nightmare

Ok. Like. So many others I am doing this on my own because of cost. I installed the shower floor tile thinking that the final mud slope errors could be camouflaged later. NOPE! Those mistakes just compound! So…. I am removing individual 2” hexagon tiles along the perimeter and around my linear drain flange to correct the slope.

Can I mud on top of the two layers of red guard (whatever of it that remains after the tiles are removed)?

Should I just remove the entire tile installation? The linear drain is at the head of the shower.

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Unread 09-04-2022, 12:21 PM   #2
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Welcome, Vanessa,

Yeah, trying to make up for substrate errors during tile installation is often difficult and frustrating.

If I'm reading correctly, you have RedGard under those hex floor tiles? What is under the RedGard?

One of the down sides of using a topical water proofer is a situation like yours; when a tile needs to be removed often the water proof layer under it comes up with the tile. If that happens the water proof layer is compromised and difficult, if not impossible, to effectively repair.
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Unread 09-05-2022, 01:27 AM   #3
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Thank you, ss3964spd

I have removed the tile (only chippped one) some came up too easily (another sign that starting over (sort of) is correct). Yes. There is redguard under the thinset . The red guard is directly on the pre-sloped deck mud. This is all on a concrete slab.

My plan is to remove down to the mud
use goof proof pre-pitch system to correct the slope with more deck mud
redguard the surface
Install kerdi membrane along perimeter
re-install salvageable tile and new tile
grout
then tile walls


I am determined to do this right.

Your thoughts/advice is VERY welcomed.
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Unread 09-05-2022, 07:57 AM   #4
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I meant to say that I plan to use floor mud to correct the slope.
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Unread 09-05-2022, 08:44 AM   #5
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You're doing a single slope mud bed to the linear drain, Vanessa, I don't think the Goof Proof system is going to buy you anything, and introduces a somewhat flexible element. Also, since the tops of the plastic "sticks" will be exposed RedGard likely won't stick to them. If the RG doesn't adhere then you could end up with lose tiles (while the tile is adhered to the RG with mortar, the RG isn't adhered to the plastic sticks).

I can't quite tell what linear drain assembly you are using. I see what looks like a plastic body, but how is the body tied into the water proofing?
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Unread 09-05-2022, 12:06 PM   #6
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This is the Compotite linear drain.

Okay, won’t use the goof proof. Thanks for that sound advice (had not considered the exposure).

Can I build the new mud bed slope on top of what’s there using some type of adhesive to bond the new mud with that surface? Getting exhausted scraping at this stuff.
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Unread 09-05-2022, 12:08 PM   #7
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Here is photo of removed tile
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Unread 09-05-2022, 12:24 PM   #8
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Vanessa, I'd very strongly recommend you remove that existing mortar bed, call it practice, and do another that's very flat and properly sloped. I'd further recommend more than the minimum 1/4" per foot slope for that long drainage run you have there. More like 3/8ths" per foot.

My opinion; worth price charged.
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Unread 09-05-2022, 06:22 PM   #9
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Thank you, CX.
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Unread 09-29-2022, 02:44 PM   #10
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Should my Final Pitch Look thi Way

I have successfully pitched my shower pan. The surface is rough. Is that okay. I [b]really[b] hope so. I cannot afford to do this again.
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Unread 09-30-2022, 12:25 AM   #11
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How much slope do you have?

It does look pretty rough, but if you have a good slope overall you can probably use a rub brick to get it in shape. Otherwise, those high and low spots you have, regardless of the overall slope, will cause you a lot of trouble when you try to set those floor tile.

How long has the mud been down?
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Unread 09-30-2022, 06:37 AM   #12
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The rub brick mentioned is a good idea along with vacuuming the floor. Once you get it sloped like you want then you might want to skim coat the mud with thinset.
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Unread 09-30-2022, 06:23 PM   #13
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This shower pan is pitched to 2” at back end and around perimeter. I will use the block to smooth the surface.

This pan was set a week ago
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Unread 09-30-2022, 10:15 PM   #14
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Good. Just make sure you maintain an even slope from drain to wall with no dips to retain water.

If you find any, use a little thinset mortar to bring them up. You just want that slope to be right before the waterproofing goes on. It's too late after that.
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Unread 10-01-2022, 01:44 PM   #15
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Since this is my final pitch (mortar over vinyl liner), after I use the brick and clean all loose debris, can I use Quikrete vinyl concrete patch to smooth over the entire surface and fill low spots while maintaining slope?

I would like to have a smooth concrete surface and reserve thinset for tile setting only. This way I can have ideally the same amount of thinset beneath each tile.
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