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Unread 05-25-2008, 05:59 PM   #1
Big guy
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Glass block do's & do not's

Bid a new const. house, part of the master bath calls for glass block pony wall to block kamod'e, 7 blocks high 7 blocks out of 6"x6", never done GB before, looked in the liberry,didn't find much. Figure it would be good place to learn, I understand the basics, just thought i'd ask y'alls opinion on the do's & do not's. Thanks for any advice.
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Unread 05-25-2008, 06:43 PM   #2
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Not a real expert on the glass blocks but have done several walls now. I can offer this bit though - patience is a must. Do not try to rush through - it can be painstakingly slow if you are used to "seeing" alot of results in a short time. Watch your water content - use a measurable amount and be very consistent with your mixing. Use a very dry sponge as you are cleaning them - I found it amazing how much what I considered an insignificant amount of water can change whether you are working the blocks or they are working you.
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Unread 05-25-2008, 07:13 PM   #3
Big guy
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Thanks John,
Advice noted, I know more of you have installed glass block so don't be shy, I'm here to learn from the best, so keep it com"in, Thanks
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Unread 05-25-2008, 07:17 PM   #4
kerdibird
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Use the spacers and like John says use just enough water in the mix.
It should stick to the side if you butter the block, but be able to resist compression.
I'd suggest a rubber hammer for adjustment, and be sure you're leveling to the high points on the edge of the blocks as they are usually contoured to some degree and make it difficult to see misalignment.
Wait a couple days before you grout.
Good luck
P.S. The first course is everything.
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Unread 05-25-2008, 07:36 PM   #5
scuttlebuttrp
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Good mud, a rubber mallet, and a perfect first row.
Denatured alchohol does wonders for cleaning when everythings cured.
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Unread 05-25-2008, 08:14 PM   #6
gueuzeman
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"The first course is everything." So true.

Use the Pittsburg Corning spacers if they are the blocks, anything else is silly stupid. We're not used to working in 3 dimensions like glass block, and lucky you, you don;t have the last course between the wall and the cieling to install!

Read the instructions- then read them 5 more ti9mes over 2 weeks, and keep asking yourself lots of questions. If you do all your worrying up front, it migjht not be so bad on the hind end.

good luck- gueuze
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Unread 05-25-2008, 08:57 PM   #7
Dan Kramer
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I like glass blocks.

Here is a link to a thread that discusses installing 'em.
http://johnbridge.com/vbulletin/show...ht=glass+block
In the 2nd post (my post) in that thread is a link to another thread where we were discussing.....................you guessed it, glass blocks.
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Unread 05-26-2008, 12:58 AM   #8
CRB
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Depending on the unsupported projection of the blocks, are you fitting / or is there in the kit, metal ties to lock into the wall and run along the block line at a couple of height levels? I've had to source these before when presented with a pile of blocks.
Colin
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Unread 05-26-2008, 04:38 AM   #9
kerdibird
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When the wall is free standing I use a tie in per course.
They say all you need is every other, but I'm all about overkill brother
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Unread 05-26-2008, 05:25 AM   #10
bctile601
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I agree, any size open ended walls should be strapped in every row, as well as the reinforcing rod.

First row IS everything, so if you plan to raise them up on a curb the way PittCorning wants 'em, there's going to be a little figuring there too.

Mix in small batches, exactly the same as the last.
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Unread 05-26-2008, 10:09 AM   #11
Big guy
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CRB
thats a good question, Are the straps, ties, spacers, and the such, somthing the installer supplys that I need to figure in my bid?

P.S. thanks fof all the information gentelman, I'll let you know how she turns out.
P.S.S. I've looked at the threds you've all led me to, I have searched the liberry but can't seem to find this stuff on my own, feel like I'm kinda sorry guys
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Unread 05-26-2008, 10:51 AM   #12
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Make sure you use stainless steel reinforcement. DO NOT use galvinized. Trust me.
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Unread 05-26-2008, 11:03 AM   #13
JoeC
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I have done about 20 or 30 glass block jobs over the years. I learned the hard way what others have posted here, after about 3 courses, things start to lean. So stop there and add more courses the next day. One thing I found very difficult to work with was the tridon blocks, the blocks used for making the wall turn 45%. They are wedge shaped, and after you adjust them for level on both planes, they seem to creep out of alignment. I found that duct tape really helped to keep them from moving forward. And as mentioned, it is extremely important to keep everything very clean! The glass block mortar sticks to glass like you won't believe till you try to clean it the next day. Have fun! JoeC
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Unread 05-26-2008, 01:31 PM   #14
phobbs
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I love doing glass block work but one must have patience. Enclosed work can be a little faster than a free standing installation. I myself install no more than 1 row on the first day in closed or free standing paying close attention to level and plumb. Applying a coat of mortar to the top of this 1st row will help draw the moisture from the 2nd row of block the next day. Also learning to apply the right amount of mortar to each block, is key to not having to beat the blocks to death in order to align it . The more you agitate the mortar the wetter it will become .
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Unread 05-26-2008, 03:24 PM   #15
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Here they are starting to do DIY kits with it all in, but when I have done gblocks I just had to work it out myself and go get stuff from the merchant. Always bad news pricing something that you dont know the full ins and outs of - can you offer a hour / day rate? probably safer. They can be tricky as everyone says. I did tie in every course on the most recent one - keeps it tight.
Good advice from others here, Id add that I have made temporary timber struts or used a temp brace on to work to on the open side for the process before - but this was all worked out in the process of having to do it, not really planned!
Colin
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