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Unread 03-08-2020, 01:59 AM   #31
TileStuff
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Epoxy coated wood for curbs, ledges, shelves.

Does anyone here have experience doing this?

I see lots of full epoxy showers on the internet. I've been using epoxy coating on 3D printed submerged boat parts for many years, UV exposure and all, no problems.

I'm thinking about making a curb and shelf area in a walk in shower from wood, stained and then coated in marine epoxy to completely seal it.

Anything I should look out for? Any reason why I shouldn't do this? I was thinking for adhering the coated wood, to either rough up the bottom with some 40 grit and use some versabond, or do the same and just use some of the epoxy itself. I'll try some samples of each and do some destructive testing. Looks like granite curbs are often adhered with epoxy.

Wanna run this by people who know a whole lot more about this kinda stuff than me, to see if I'm overlooking something.
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Unread 03-08-2020, 06:41 AM   #32
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I doubt Versabond will stick to the marine epoxy. What's the purpose of all this? Sounds like a lot of extra work and expensive materials.
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Unread 03-08-2020, 06:52 AM   #33
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My first thought was “there will be so many glass guys lining up to drill this curb they will need to have a raffle!”
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Unread 03-08-2020, 09:42 AM   #34
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jesse
So unprofessional advice, would you buy the Kerdi for $100, doesn't offically work but surely higher quality, AlinO for $80, save a few shekels and they say it works, or spend a possible $160 on the hydroban drain, the only one specifically for liquid membrane, even though they only warranty their own liquid.
Professional or unprofessional, Jesse, I would not use a liquid-applied direct bonded waterproofing membrane for a shower receptor at all. For a sheet-type membrane I'd choose the USG Durock Shower System membrane and drain. Reasonably priced, available on Amazon.

As for your AlinO products that some of us have never heard of, that's entirely up to you. It may be perfectly usable, but we just don't know that. As for:
Quote:
and if they're sold at the local home depot they're fully CSA certified, so it can't be crap.
if you'd add a geographic location to your User Profile that might be a bit more meaningful, but I'm still not sure it would be accurate.

Bottom line is that it all depends upon your personal risk tolerance and your willingness to pay for known useful products. While I understand your wanting to be frugal, I also understand the situations where you've got to weigh a little added expense against the knowledge that the products, and combination of products, you're using have been well tested and are likely to last over the long term.

In my professional life that means I never get called back to a project because of a failure (shower re-dos are very, very expensive) and in my non-professional life that means I never, ever hafta go back in there for any reason. In either case, even when I can't really afford the extra hundred bucks, I'll spend it if I think it puts me in that sweet spot.

Those are personal choices and nobody outside can really help you make them.

My opinion; worth price charged.
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Unread 03-08-2020, 09:44 AM   #35
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Two questions:

First, exactly what do you mean by a "full epoxy shower?"

Second, is this part of your roman tub project?
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Unread 03-08-2020, 09:54 AM   #36
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In a prior life, I knew a fiberglass guy who 'glassed and entire shower in place in a prison. He's gone and I can't tell you how it fared. I'm assuming when you say epoxy, you're going to reinforce with fiberglass mat or roving or chop?

It does beg the question why, though. With all the various proven-to-work methods to choose from, what would be the benefit?

If the smoothness of 'glass is desired, why not install a prefab?

Is it a secondary waterproofing you're after?
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Unread 03-08-2020, 11:13 AM   #37
TileStuff
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by full epoxy shower I mean something like this:

https://www.google.com/search?q=epox...cqvZ8G7dHGzY6M

Just type "epoxy shower" into google and check out the photos/videos.

I'm not doing any fiberglassing, I just like the idea of using some wood that I've stained for the curb and a ledge/shelf in the shower, and fully coat in clear epoxy to seal it. This wouldn't be overly expensive at all, rather I expect it would be quite a bit cheaper than going the granite route.

And yes, CX, this would be for my Roman tub project that has now turned into a walkin shower, but I thought this question was broad enough to stand on it's own.
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Unread 03-08-2020, 11:31 AM   #38
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Let's keep all the project questions on this thread so folks can see what you're working on and what's been previously asked and answered. A moderator can give it a different tile if you'd like.

If I were wanting some exposed wood in a shower I'd want it to be Teak or Ipe or similar. If you want to try your epoxy coated wood, I'd wanna make the pieces easily replaceable.

My opinion; worth price charged.
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Unread 03-08-2020, 04:23 PM   #39
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Any wood with an epoxy coating would stand up better than uncoated teak. Epoxy is completely waterproof like fiberglass resin. I think I'll give it a try.

Back to the waterproofing system, what a minefield. This morning I had started thinking, why mess around, just get a kerdi drain and membrane and do the whole thing the kerdi way, I could even just leave up the old drywall to avoid the annoying disposal ordeal and board over it with some 1/4".

Then of course today I had to find Isaac Ostrom's Youtube channel with all the kerdi fails. Yikes. Maybe I should just go back to the 3 piece and liner with double mortar bed.. or do something unapproved like paint the kerdi seems and around the drain with redgard. I like the idea of using the ardex 8+9 over the kerdi membrane for the pan, being cement based, but I can't easily get that stuff.
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Unread 03-08-2020, 04:47 PM   #40
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After looking at the epoxy showers I see now what your goal is, somewhat. Not a bad idea and if you follow thru it would be nice to see some pics of the results. I had no clue that stuff was out there.
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Unread 03-08-2020, 05:06 PM   #41
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Jesse, while I find Isaac's videos interesting, I've personally witnessed too many cardboard boxes Kerdied on the inside and filled with water for months and, in one case, years without leaking to think the system won't work if properly executed. Just too many Kerdi showers out there for decades now for us not to have heard of some failures if there was a serious problem with the system.

My only deviation from that is that I've come to prefer the USG Durock Shower System membrane rather than the Kerdi membrane. Same approach, better material.

My opinion; worth price charged.
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Unread 03-08-2020, 05:49 PM   #42
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I think it's important to note that what Isaac subjected the shower to is something we never see in a conventional shower. And if you overlap from the bottom up, like I do, then the only way water can get into those seams is for it to start running uphill.
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Unread 03-08-2020, 06:02 PM   #43
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Which it will, in fact, happily do in that application, Kevin.
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Unread 03-08-2020, 07:45 PM   #44
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If you look closely to that mentioned video, you'll see a lot of thinset, puckered seams and some other deficiencies. You need to use the right-sized trowel, mix the thinset properly, wipe the surfaces down for dust and to add a bit of moisture prior to spreading the thinset, and get the right-sized overlaps without excess thinset thickness. The stuff works. It's not all that hard, just attention to detail and an understanding of the system.

Do everything right, and moisture will tend to penetrate the seam maybe 1/4", but with at least a full 2" overlap, more than enough.
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Unread 03-08-2020, 09:48 PM   #45
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Quote:
Originally Posted by CX
Which it will, in fact, happily do in that application
You mean run uphill in a shower? I wasn't referring to flood testing, by the way.
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