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Unread 01-10-2016, 07:24 PM   #31
Radas
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Very informative Paul, what did you use to score the glass in the first video? Thankfully I have the same saw that you have in the second video ao I am able to make multiple passes of varying depth. Thanks for sharing!

Yeah the Montolit blade is impressive. I could only find it online @ tools4flooring for 295 Any cheaper sources?

Yes, please finish up that glass tutorial my 6x18 backplash and fiancé will thank you immensely!
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Unread 01-10-2016, 08:01 PM   #32
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I use nicer, but not terribly expensive glass handling tools
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Unread 01-13-2016, 10:51 PM   #33
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Back to business:

Started pulling the cabinets out and patching the holes. Pulled the sink base out and found more mold so I sprayed a few rounds of mold killer/suppressor on the affected area and cleaned it up.

Cut and capped the plumbing with sharkbite fittings so I can have a good friend re-do all the copper and drain lines for me.

Ran a flooring edger where the cabinets were with a 24grit pad and now all fresh osb is exposed. Tomorrow I'll move the appliances, toss the rest of the cabinets in the trash, and start adhering Ditra XL to the floor.

Question, if I fill the waffle squares on the Ditra, should I use modified thinset? If so, can I go over it with the mapei decoupling membrane unmodified thinset 24 hours later when I lay the porcelain?
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Unread 01-13-2016, 11:16 PM   #34
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I surely would recommend against installing the Ditra until all the other work, plumbing, etc, was finished in that room.

Yes, you can pre-fill the Ditra with modified thinset mortar if you want.

My opinion; worth price charged.
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Unread 01-14-2016, 10:13 AM   #35
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CX,

I was planning on completing both the Ditra and laying porcelain on the floor since all the plumbing runs through that half wall pictured. The only reason for this is because I am affixing the cabinets to the walls once the porcelain is laid (I want one continuous flooring material in the kitchen with no cutting around obstacles). The only thing I will do tonight is possibly extend the two copper water lines and cap them again. Once I create the holes for the water and drain lines in the cabinet and affix it to the wall, then my plumber will come in and work his magic.

Do you have a better alternative considering my game plan?

Also, will unmodified thinset work over the modified once those waffle squares are pre-filled? Or will I have to use modified moving forward when I lay tile on the pre-filled Ditra?
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Unread 01-14-2016, 10:49 AM   #36
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So long as your floor has time to cure, grout and all, before doing any work over it, and you protect it well, that should work. But you'll find it's amazing sometimes how much damage plumbers can do and never give it a thought.

Your unmodified thinset mortar will bond just fine to the prefilled Ditra.

My opinion; worth price charged.
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Unread 01-15-2016, 10:10 PM   #37
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Thanks CX,

Just out of curiosity, what is ballpark full cure? I'll be waiting 8 days before the plumber comes by. I know a lot can do damage but this guy is a good friend, he treats my house(s) like his own... very rare in this day and age when it comes to skilled trades .

Well, I used a .25x.25 square notch and flexbond to ahdere the Ditra after pre-fitting. I'm glad I ordered 175sq feet because I used almost all of it with minimal waste.

Let it cure overnight and prefilled with what little mortar was left in the bucket. Any square that was not 100% filled was removed via persistent shop vac'ing today. I also finished painting the walls were the cabinets were and began laying the 12x24 porcelain when my buddy stopped by to lend a hand.

Got 70% of it done tonight. Tiles were laid via filling all the holes in the Ditra and then going over with a .25x.25 square notch trowel in one direction. Thinset is mapei uncoupling membrane mortar. Chose a short step, short step, long step staggered pattern and rolled with it. Grout lines are 3/16. Every single tile was also back buttered, all the ones I checked were nearly or at 100% coverage and took a LOT of effort to pry up.

What do you think? The job will be finished tomorrow, ran out of thinset and spacers. I will grout with custom polyblend sanded grout in a natural gray.
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Unread 01-15-2016, 11:50 PM   #38
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Eight days should be more than enough for it to dry. If it were me, I'd invest a few bucks in a roll of paper and cover the floor before anyone works on it. It might save you some trouble later on.

I'm a user of Custom products on a regular basis, but I've not been a fan of their Polyblend grout. I've had personal experience with it, and we've had multiple threads hereabouts. In many cases, it bleached out for some unknown reason and resulted in the grout having to be stained.

If it were my floor, I'd be looking into the epoxy grouts, or something like FusionPro, Mapei Flexicolor CQ, or something with some serious stain resistance.

If I had to use Polyblend, I'd try to get the additive that HD sells and use it in place of water.
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Unread 01-16-2016, 05:13 AM   #39
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x2 on the Flexicolor CQ....Look at lowes to see what colors they may have available / in stock to correspond with your tile. If using Flexicolor, follow the directions to the letter for an easy, worry free job.
Looks great so far, Great job!
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Unread 01-16-2016, 08:49 AM   #40
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Greg/Kevin,

Thanks, I have used custom polyblend sanded before and wasn't too fond of it but I was hesitant to try anything outside of my comfort zone. I'll go ahead and buy a gallon of flexicolor cq at my local Lowes, it seems like an impressive product. I've grown fond of Mapei's products so far, I think the only Custom items I will purchase in the future will be CBU and flexbond.

How long do you guys recommend waiting before I roll my massive samsung fridge back in the room?
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Unread 01-16-2016, 12:49 PM   #41
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Give the grout a day or so to fully harden.
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Unread 01-16-2016, 01:58 PM   #42
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I'd give it a minimum of three days before considering that kind of traffic and I'd still recommend protecting that new floor with plywood when rolling something as heavy as a refrigerator over it.

My opinion; worth price charged.
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Unread 01-16-2016, 09:12 PM   #43
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CX/Paul,

Thank you for the responses. I'll go ahead and wait 3 days and grab two sheets of plywood or luaun to set on the floor when rolling.

We finally got done tonight. time to drink all 6 of these vanilla java porters my lady got me earlier.

The front entrance was done with wonderboard (I know my subfloor doesn't meet the requirements for wonderboard, however, with such a small footprint I'll take my chances) and versabond underneath using a notched .25x.25 square trowel. I then sealed the seams with cbu tape and allowed it and the mitered schluter border to set for a while before laying the tile. Once again, tiles were laid in the same patter as the kitchen and all were back buttered to ensure full coverage.

I just realized I used uncoupling membrane thinset over the wonderboard, is that ok? Especially for a low traffic front entrance.

Also, per the great advice I recieved earlier, I went ahead and bought two gallons of mapei flexicolor cq in warm gray. Should blend right in nicely. I'll tackle that project tomorrow evening after I clean the tile joints with a grout saw.
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Unread 01-16-2016, 09:17 PM   #44
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The mortar used will be fine.

Looking good
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Unread 01-17-2016, 12:12 AM   #45
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Thanks Paul,

Coming from a pro is a hell of a compliment, I appreciate it and all the help you, Greg, CX, Davy, and Kevin have provided so far.

Get that glass how-to done? It will be glass 6x18 backsplash time for me soon
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