Ceramic Tile Advice Forums - John Bridge Ceramic Tile

Welcome to John Bridge / Tile Your World, the friendliest DIY Forum on the Internet


Advertiser Directory
JohnBridge.com Home
Buy John Bridge's Books

Go Back   Ceramic Tile Advice Forums - John Bridge Ceramic Tile > Tile & Stone Forums > Tile Forum/Advice Board

Sponsors


Reply
Thread Tools Search this Thread
Unread 10-20-2020, 11:58 AM   #1
SpaceCadet
Registered User
 
Join Date: Sep 2018
Posts: 215
hanging 3 in copper pipe in joist bay

EDIT: title's wrong, it's actually 3 in pipe. Sorry, can't change it.

I'll post a photo when I can get it but I wanted to get a jump on this.

I've got a 2nd floor bathroom with a copper drain pipe from the toilet that isn't fixed to anything. What I found when I opened up the floor is that it's resting on a piece of wood that's also just sitting on top of one of the straps that the plaster ceiling below is hung from. The pipe runs about the middle of the bay between the 8 in joists.

What would be the proper way to fix the pipe in place? Add 2x6 blocking flat flush with top of the joists to support the toilet and suspend it from that?
__________________
Paul

Last edited by SpaceCadet; 10-20-2020 at 01:52 PM.
SpaceCadet is offline   Reply With Quote
Sponsored Links
Unread 10-20-2020, 01:08 PM   #2
jadnashua
Veteran DIYer- Schluterville Graduate

STAR Senior Contributor

 
Join Date: Jul 2004
Location: Nashua, NH
Posts: 14,133
This sort of question might better be asked over at www.terrylove.com that deals more with plumbing, HVAC, etc.

At the cost of copper these days, I might consider pulling it out, recycling it (it's at least a couple bucks a pound) and replacing it with pvc or abs, but that's your call. Copper can last eons, but it also can be eaten away from acids...flush your toilet at night, otherwise, the urine will make it's way over the weir and can literally eat the bottom of the pipe away. It gets diluted enough to not be an issue if you actually flush, though!

They sell copper strapping with holes punched in it you can buy in a roll with copper nails. I'd probably go from one joist, wrap it around the pipe, and then over to the other joist. Remember to keep the slope and don't allow it to level off or try to go uphill in the process. It needs a constant downhill slope of at least 1/4" per foot unless it's 4", then you can get by with 1/8"/foot.
__________________
Jim DeBruycker
Not a pro, multiple Schluter Workshops (Schluterville and 2013 and 2014 at Schluter Headquarters), Mapei Training 2014, Laticrete Workshop 2014, Custom Building Products Workshop 2015, and Longtime Forum Participant.
jadnashua is offline   Reply With Quote
Unread 10-20-2020, 04:51 PM   #3
smifwal
Registered User
 
Join Date: Mar 2016
Location: Kansas City
Posts: 1,436
Scrap prices are in the toilet right now but seriously they are pretty low
__________________
Shawn
smifwal is offline   Reply With Quote
Unread 10-20-2020, 07:12 PM   #4
SpaceCadet
Registered User
 
Join Date: Sep 2018
Posts: 215
Name:  2020-10-20 drain pipe mount.JPG
Views: 124
Size:  99.2 KB

thanks for the tip, i'll not let it mellow. i wouldn't mind replacing it with pvc but most of that pipe is hard to get at.
__________________
Paul
SpaceCadet is offline   Reply With Quote
Unread 10-20-2020, 08:18 PM   #5
CaliGrown
Registered User
 
CaliGrown's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2016
Location: Turlock, CA
Posts: 449
Good one Shawn! Very true
__________________
Christopher Machado
Central Valley, CA 1 (916) 990-1751
“ Sometimes you set tile, other times tile sets you!”
- The Brutally Honest Tile Mechanics -
Joseph Peres (7/16/95 - 8/31/19)
CaliGrown is offline   Reply With Quote
Unread 10-20-2020, 08:53 PM   #6
wwhitney
Registered User
 
Join Date: Dec 2015
Location: Berkeley, CA
Posts: 1,100
I like running a block below the pipe at the correct elevation, pocket or toe screwed to the joists at each end, and optionally strapped down to the block.

Cheers, Wayne
__________________
Wayne
wwhitney is offline   Reply With Quote
Unread 10-21-2020, 05:27 AM   #7
smifwal
Registered User
 
Join Date: Mar 2016
Location: Kansas City
Posts: 1,436
If you do end up replacing it with pvc make sure you get the correct no hub coupling. There is one specific to copper. I had to go to the plumbing supply company after the one I got at home depot leaked when we tested it.

If it were me I would block and strap, it as Wayne suggested
__________________
Shawn
smifwal is offline   Reply With Quote
Unread 10-21-2020, 08:17 AM   #8
SpaceCadet
Registered User
 
Join Date: Sep 2018
Posts: 215
Sounds like a plan, Wayne. Do I need to put something between the strap and the pipe to give it a margin of flex?

Thanks for the tip on the coupling, Shawn. Replacing the pipe would probably be a whole other project involving busting out a bunch of ceiling and running pvc pipe to the basement where it connects to the cast iron line.

also thanks for fixing the title, whoever did that (CX?).
__________________
Paul
SpaceCadet is offline   Reply With Quote
Unread 10-21-2020, 08:35 AM   #9
wwhitney
Registered User
 
Join Date: Dec 2015
Location: Berkeley, CA
Posts: 1,100
Quote:
Originally Posted by SpaceCadet
Do I need to put something between the strap and the pipe to give it a margin of flex?
I wouldn't think so, plus a strap (was thinking plastic plumber's tape) isn't super tight.

I assume you're going to do this in just the one accessible location? It would be fine to omit the strap, as you might want the little bit of play to get the location dialed in when you install the closet flange. Then once you install the closet flange, that end is going to be fixed, so the strap right there isn't going to do much.
__________________
Wayne
wwhitney is offline   Reply With Quote
Unread 10-21-2020, 09:33 AM   #10
SpaceCadet
Registered User
 
Join Date: Sep 2018
Posts: 215
Ok, plastic makes sense. I was thinking copper still. There are a couple of spots where I can get at the pipe so I might fix it in 2 places.

Thanks all.
__________________
Paul
SpaceCadet is offline   Reply With Quote
Unread 10-23-2020, 06:32 AM   #11
SpaceCadet
Registered User
 
Join Date: Sep 2018
Posts: 215
Thought of something (at 3 am this morning while I couldn't sleep). The plumber will solder the flange on so that pipe will get hot and a plastic strap may melt so I should probably use a copper one. Any gotchas with strapping the pipe down with a metal strap?

I realize terrylove.com might be the better place to ask this but I never do plumbing stuff, we're not supposed to DIY that in MA, so I don't want to start a whole other account just to ask 1 question.
__________________
Paul
SpaceCadet is offline   Reply With Quote
Unread 10-23-2020, 08:53 AM   #12
wwhitney
Registered User
 
Join Date: Dec 2015
Location: Berkeley, CA
Posts: 1,100
As long as it's a copper strap, should be fine. I still suggest omitting the strap by the closet bend.

Cheers, Wayne
__________________
Wayne
wwhitney is offline   Reply With Quote
Unread 10-23-2020, 06:32 PM   #13
SpaceCadet
Registered User
 
Join Date: Sep 2018
Posts: 215
The bigger picture. The 2 in pipe that splits off the side continues up into a roof vent. The whole thing is supported by a few loose bits of wood here and there. Everything moves. Seems like I need to fix it in place somewhere.
Name:  2020-10-23 drain pipe.JPG
Views: 59
Size:  99.4 KB
__________________
Paul
SpaceCadet is offline   Reply With Quote
Unread 10-23-2020, 07:12 PM   #14
wwhitney
Registered User
 
Join Date: Dec 2015
Location: Berkeley, CA
Posts: 1,100
I suggest once in the wall with a strap, once in the floor opening on the right with a strap, and then once by the toilet flange without a strap. The closet flange will secure that branch.

Cheers, Wayne
__________________
Wayne
wwhitney is offline   Reply With Quote
Unread 11-27-2020, 06:28 PM   #15
SpaceCadet
Registered User
 
Join Date: Sep 2018
Posts: 215
sink drain close to wall

Same bathroom so same thread but different problem.

We got a compact vanity with a small sink. The sink is ~14 in front to back and the center of the drain is only about 6-7 in from the wall. All the plumbing in the bathroom is copper but the plumber roughed in a PVC stub with a rubber coupling for the sink. Can the sink be hooked up no problem if the drain is in front of the outlet in the wall or do I need to offset it so they can make a loop with the pipe or something?

Just realized tonight that there might be an issue. Emailed the plumber but they probably won't get back to me until Monday and I want to use the weekend to get some of this work done. Posting here hoping for reassurance that it's safe to place the vanity with the drain in front of the pipe stub in the wall.
__________________
Paul
SpaceCadet is offline   Reply With Quote
Reply

Stonetooling.com   Tile-Assn.com   National Gypsum Permabase


Thread Tools Search this Thread
Search this Thread:

Advanced Search

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Forum Jump

Similar Threads
Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
Soldering Copper Pipe oakview The Mud Box 13 04-01-2012 11:01 PM
Sealing 1/2" copper pipe seatofpantstile Tile Forum/Advice Board 7 01-19-2012 10:39 AM
how to bend copper pipe lati_cz The Mud Box 17 03-14-2011 04:13 PM
copper pipe and cement jerseyjoe Tile Forum/Advice Board 12 01-30-2005 10:29 AM
Epoxy on Copper Pipe cx The Mud Box 22 03-08-2003 09:23 AM


All times are GMT -6. The time now is 02:01 PM.


Sponsors

Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.7.4
Copyright ©2000 - 2020, Jelsoft Enterprises Ltd.
Copyright 2018 John Bridge & Associates, LLC